JD_AMG

Did yo try adjusting the shocks? What's your tire pressure?
I have 36psi on all corners, and 3 sweeps from full firm front, 1 sweep from from full soft rear, rides firm, but not jarring.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Put your tires down to 32psi cool (not hot), it will help.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

And this is the reason (this entire post) for supporting our sponsors. You may have saved $20, maybe $30 if you bought the KONI's elsewhere, but Sam is here to help, but you have to support him to do it.

I'm glad I went with Sam when I purchased my shocks, I will be purchasing my suspension peices from him in the future as well. In fact, his prices are better than almost anywhere out there, and you get his expertise.

Try calling the place you bought them from and see what they have to say.

greenherb

hey mark.... ill share my set up with you... maybe it can put you on the right path.... the approved set-up is all over the net and not rocket science as others will lead you to believe... i have 1le springs, which is 360 front and 130-180 rear... koni double adjusts.. now with these i have played with the compression ( the adjustment you don't have being single ) and it rode like a tank... so i settled on 0 effectively making it like a single adjust.... the rebound i have set about mid-way rides great (maybe about 6 sweeps)
...the rear is set to full soft.... as far as bars go... i have 35/21 combo but 32/19 works ok.......... the reason i got the doubles verses the single was SLP had a blow out sale below MAP price sale years ago and contrary to others saying they will leak and old stock is no good, they have worked just fine... funny thing is i just read a post from the same guys saying they sold 10 year konis and worked just fine...

jaguar5822

iTrader: (8)

If you are having problems getting to the adjustment window, jack up that corner of the car until there is enough room for your arm and you can get the allen wrench to the window. Then go 4 full sweeps towards soft (counterclockwise I believe if looking down from the top of the car). Adjust from there to your liking.

vikingramair

My set up is KONI SA x4, BMR prog front and rear. STRANO bars f+r, SFC UMI, A-arms up/down G2 Adjustable w/ Rod Ends , LCA G2 Adjustable w/ Rod Ends, PHB G2 Adjustable w/ Rod Ends .

And my car is STIFF, i think you have to learn to live with your new set-up.It's not soft crap stock anymore.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Kyle has it right. But if you have the shocks on backwards, you'll have to remove them to access the adjuster - and you might as well do that and get them turned around.

Mark A. Rogalski

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone. I'm on top of it. Also, I was not aware I had to be a customer to get advice Sam.

Some time back when Mr. Strano was commenting on where people buy their producst from I suggested we just make donations to Sam for all his efforts. Although I had never ask anything of him until this thread, I sent Sam Strano $10 through PayPal back then to start the ball rolling. He returned it!

Again, thank you for all the advice everyone. Consider this thread topic closed.

AW794

iTrader: (7)

Not to get off topic, but your exhaust setup is very clean

Mark A. Rogalski

iTrader: (1)

You know, the more I thought about Sam Strano's post here the more it just fry's my ***. Here is a guy(s) who obvioulsy has the knowledge to help. But instead of chiming in like fellow members he rather blast my purchasing habits, states I attacked someone, and tells me my vendor doesn't care. And after all the effort of typing comments wraps it up with a "Can't Help You"!

Why even enter the thread Sam? You brought nothing to the table other then your traditional "buy from me or else" statement, which we have all heard for years. I've purchased from several sponsors including Spohn, BMR, Xtreme, ProDyno, and on. I've listened to your bitches over time about the poor margins because of your low volume, not wanting to compete with the net, "I'm just a small shop", and on. I even tried to start and intiative to subsidize this with donations and you refused that idea and returned my $10!

Sam, you just can't and won't get 100% of the market share for Koni sales on F-body cars. I'm guessing you know this and and the fact that if you maintain your status quo as just a "Service" provider it will always allow you to blast anyone who purchases elsewhere. Or does it just give you the ability to do it on LS1tech?

I find your participation in this thread and comments purely arrogent. I thought more higly of your organization and the reason I suggested you chime in on the thread. My mistake. You're all about helping, only if you get the money!!! And if you don't, expect Sam Strano or whoever actually is responding under that user name to "bring it" in a way that I see no other vendor on this site do.

Mark A. Rogalski

Ironhead

Why should he feel obligated to help you for free?

Make a purchase. Become a customer. Develop a working relationship with him. That's how gain access to his (or anybody else's) help and advice.

Whining like a girl isn't going to get you something for nothing.

TooSlow02

Actually, his participation in this thread was not arrogance on his part; you asked. And he's only explaining why he can't help you, he's not trying to "bring it" as you so eloquently put it. He shares his knowledge and experience as a service to his customers, which is a huge plus to me and many others that he's helped over the years. But he won't give away the store, and I certainly wouldn't either were I in his position. It's not a "buy from me or else statement", Sam (and yes, Sam Strano is a real person and not an entity- it's really him taking time out of his day to type these posts) doesn't work like that.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I don't see any reason why Sam should have any obligation to help anyone who never purchased anything from him. If you had actually purchased the Koni's from him he would help you personally over the phone. Live and learn.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I personally do not care where you bought them. But I do find it curious that you:
Apparently did not research what the adjustments were and what settings were what (they are only single adjustable, so it is not that difficult).
Did not document what your shocks are set at.
Are not able to walk out to the car and see where they are set at.
As I read Sam's post, all I saw was him admonishing you for yelling at someone for reminding you of these basic steps. I did not see him trying to sell you his product.
I find your response arrogant (correct spelling, BTW). If you chose another vendor, as is your right, ask them the questions. Is that not why you gave them your money?
Good luck, pay for your mistakes, and move on.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Last I checked this

Would not be considered yelling at anyone, obviously Mark handled the situation well and took his issue with the other guy (speed_demon24) being rude to PM's which is the appropriate thing to do in my eyes.

Now for the actual issue at hand, I hope you get the settings on the Koni's figured out and let the rest of us know

greenherb

mark i shop on price........ the reason i got the koni doubles verses the single was SLP had a blow out sale below MAP price sale years ago and contrary to others saying they will leak and old stock is no good, they have worked just fine... funny thing is i just read a post from the same guys saying they sold 10 year konis and worked just fine...... aside.... do a search and you can confirm konis should be set mid way up front full soft on rear and spring rates ...front 360 to about 500 (same as 1le and some after-market springs) and rear 130 -180 (same spec for 1le and the after-market)

Firehawk2k0648

We are talking single adjustable shocks right? So many reply postings and I see some answers that are logical but none that educate. Let's bring up the level here. I joined because I want help and got enough experience to help some. Think the answers and please educate in the process if at all possible.

Firstly: most single adjustable shocks in general and by definition adjust only for REBOUND and have predefined COMPRESSION settings. Simple to figure out when shock is uninstalled and in your hands. Move ****/screw-valve all the way one way and with shock upside down, press it into the ground (protect top rebound adjusting **** if adjustment is at top like on double-adjustable Koni or it will bend like a twig). Anyone heavier than 120 lbs should be able to do it. Do it slowly and it will go down (fast and it will really resist - it is its primary job, after all). Always use the same approximate body weight and "slowness" for comparison. If as you adjust from one end to the other at one end shock comes back to original length faster and at other end almost not at all, then you have adjusted REBOUND. If it gets harder to push down, then you adjusted COMPRESSION valving.

They do different things you need to understand in order to figure out how a car, any car works on the road. But I will not go through all that now.

I drive a 2000 Firehawk LS1, highly modified. I have used varied combinations of Eibach Sportsline (ouch!, my kidneys!) springs, SLP Eibach Pro springs, SLP Bilstein pre-valved, the DeCarbons of course, dual adjustable rear Koni shocks, front single adjustable GroundControl shocks, and the ultimate AirRide pneumatic springs (air bags) on all four corners. I think I know what works and what does not at least to some intermediate level. Currently running AirRide bags on all four, fron shocks set at 8 out of 16 rebound, and rear dual-adjustable Koni set at 10 out of 12 hard for compression (factory DeCarbons are more like 16 out of 12 for compression compared to Koni - no joke) and 9 out of ten scale hard for rebound (something must stop air bags from lifting the light rear end indiscriminately - the 16 inch Rnacho limiting straps also help on airborne moments).

In your original case, you annoyed one respondent with how simple your solution really is and the man lost temper. NEVER, EVER, just slap adjustable shocks on the car "as they came from the factory". Bertha in Receiving may have had a PMS day one day and set one to full soft and another to full hard and then you'll do the NASCAR thing and take only left turns! Do not AssUMe.

In general, too harsh a rebound, especially on the front, in a front-heavy car design (don't argue, all gens are front heavy pigs) will rattle your brains along with the windows. Furthermore (to point at a different thread complaining about bird wondering all over after grooves in the road) your steering can get choppy. The first bump compresses the shocks but they do not allow car to bounce back up fast enough so in fact the very next bump (if close enough) you may as well have no suspension at all because even the spring is over-compressed at that point. Clank! Teeth rattle. Spring finally forces shock up just enough to catch the next set of bumps. Lower back surgery forthcoming.

You installed the Shocks so you know how to take them apart. Not sure what level 2 SLP springs mean (they change marketing verbiage as they go too, as much as I love those guys) but you will know if they are thinner than factory (SLP 1 inch drop) or thicker and closer wound (Eiback Sportline based nightmares). There is no way to make Eibach Sportlines work with anything without teeth rattling - period - not even air bag springs like mine. Sportline series are meant for all out road racing and autocross with about 2 inch of total suspension travel. But I think you have the softer SLP spec springs. Hence, find the adjusting **** which may be accessible externally (hope!) and take it through full range of motion going the other way (usually left is harsher and right softer unless it is adjusting **** at top of shock strut and then it is the opposite). Never park the setting all the way either way - long term it is not a good idea for the internal valving. You will get some even number of total clicks, end to end. Count half from one full setting and repeat on other side. Drive for at least a week before deciding and do not adjust more than two klicks at a time with some driving in between.

On the rear, you may also want to take the shocks about 1 to 2 clicks in when you get a chance to pull that carpet again. I am pretty sure adjustments on those are at top of rod and hidden, but maybe your model is luckier. At least one notch (meaning one tenth or 12th generally) because of general rule of not allowing shock piston to slap inside chamber because you are too generous. Two tenths because you are running lowering springs and you want to prevent damaging wheel hop if ever decide to floor the gas while in reverse gear.

Hope this helps: There is not a thing wrong with your shocks. They do need tunning of their settings.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

tttttt

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

wow i hope it got fixed

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

those were some nice pics