Sportline & Protkit T/A's...COME IN!!
10-18-2007, 06:44 PM
#22
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Im not buying Koni SA's those are too much money to EVER spend on shocks IMO.
I actually rode in a sportline car this afternoon and it wasnt as good as my buddies with the prokit but it wasn't horrible. Its DEFINITELY better than what I did have...which was stock cut ones cut to look like sportlines with STOCK shocks that were blown out all the way around.
Also kinda a weird question, BUT what if I had the prokit and cut a coil off each one to make them sit like the sportlines....what would this do?
I actually rode in a sportline car this afternoon and it wasnt as good as my buddies with the prokit but it wasn't horrible. Its DEFINITELY better than what I did have...which was stock cut ones cut to look like sportlines with STOCK shocks that were blown out all the way around.
Also kinda a weird question, BUT what if I had the prokit and cut a coil off each one to make them sit like the sportlines....what would this do?
Its like asking if anyone bought one of those electric superchargers on ebay, and a fake BOV noise, and how much they like it. Then saying that spending $6000 for a real supercharger is WAY too much.
Suspension is no different than engines, you can look at facts and figures to see what is trully better. Like mentioned earlier, air flow rates for engines, and springs rates for springs. If you have a springs that is lower than stock, or has a higher rate than stock , you need a shock to damper that rate, just like you need a tune and supporting mods for a big cam. Sure you can drive around w/o a tune, but your car will run like **** just like it would on stock shocks.
You obviously are concerned with ride quality, other wise you wouldn't be asking. So why don't you just get what was made specifically to work well together, opposed to throwing a bunch of different things together and hoping for the best?
EDIT: for what its worth, if I ever own another fbody, Konis are the FIRST thing I'm doing, yeah its that much of a difference.
10-18-2007, 07:53 PM
#24
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they need to be cut with a wheel or a saw.. a torch is a no-no. As for figuring out what the new rates are, it can be done but there is a good bit of math involved
my biggest issue with it is the change in free height. which isnt a problem when you ditch 1 coil probably, but may cause problems if you cut several coils.
10-19-2007, 01:10 PM
#25
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In my01ws6's defense, give him a break. He said he doesn't mind the ride quality of the sportlines. Some of you guys are making good points but sounds like he's pretty satisfied with that and wanted to just see height differences. I think he should just try it out himself because he's the only one who will know if he likes the setup or not.
10-19-2007, 03:58 PM
#26
Not a T/A, but Sportlines nonetheless. I've got Sportlines and Bilsteins and it doesn't bother me one bit. Everyone on here has an opinion and most people don't agree with me on this one, but I don't really care because it's my car. The car is only a weekend cruiser and doesn't see rough conditions, so ground clearance wasn't that big of a deal to me. I don't autocross it or anything like that, so the extreme most performance wasn't a crutial requirement for me. I just wanted something that would plant me through the twisties on the back roads and look damn good when driving by or at a local car show, and that's exactly what I got. It handles great. The ride is a little rough but I kinda like that because it's more of a sporty feel (not much worse than stock). I've NEVER hit the bumpstops (had them for about 7 months now) and the look is second to none for my taste...gave my car the exact stance I was looking for. I love this site, but the one thing I've realized is that everyone has a different opinion, and you just need to do your own research and go with the facts and make your own decision. I had enough proof and talked to enough people to decide on the Sportlines and I have no regrets. The only problems I've ever had are railroad tracks, which I've bottomed out my LTs a couple times going as slow as I possibly could.
If I were driving the car everyday, it would be another story, I'd probably go with something more practicle, but like I said, these are good for what I need
If I were driving the car everyday, it would be another story, I'd probably go with something more practicle, but like I said, these are good for what I need
10-19-2007, 05:51 PM
#28
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Just for the two people who say they've never hit the bumpstops... you have
you can't tell most of the time while driving, but if you actually look at the bumpstops, you can see evidence that they hit.
Stock sprung cars hit the bumpstops, and they have 2 inches more free travel before hitting them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=12
you can't tell most of the time while driving, but if you actually look at the bumpstops, you can see evidence that they hit.
Stock sprung cars hit the bumpstops, and they have 2 inches more free travel before hitting them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=12
10-20-2007, 12:23 AM
#30
my01ws6....as for the Koni's costing too much, i disagree. they would be extremely helpful for someone like yourself, who swaps out springs frequently....they're adjustable, so you can set the damping correctly for just about any springs out there, and are going to help the handling of the car far more than some stock replacements will.
sure, you can spend a lot less on some stock-replacements, but if you keep blowing them up because of the amount of drop you have, you'll just need to keep replacing them, or drive around with dangerous, worn-out shocks.
sure, the Koni's are expensive, but they are well worth every penny, IMO...would probably be the last set of shocks you'd ever have to buy.....
10-21-2007, 01:49 AM
#31
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Your car looks PERFECT!!!! Very very nice!!! Wheels look perfect to the wheel wells!!
The way I look at it is....I have a lifetime warranty on my Bilsteins so thats why Im choosing them. If Konis had a lifetime warranty I probably would shell out the extra cash. But they arent so IMO the bilsteins offer me the best choice for my needs.
10-21-2007, 03:50 AM
#32
Not a T/A, but Sportlines nonetheless. I've got Sportlines and Bilsteins and it doesn't bother me one bit. Everyone on here has an opinion and most people don't agree with me on this one, but I don't really care because it's my car. The car is only a weekend cruiser and doesn't see rough conditions, so ground clearance wasn't that big of a deal to me. I don't autocross it or anything like that, so the extreme most performance wasn't a crutial requirement for me. I just wanted something that would plant me through the twisties on the back roads and look damn good when driving by or at a local car show, and that's exactly what I got. It handles great. The ride is a little rough but I kinda like that because it's more of a sporty feel (not much worse than stock). I've NEVER hit the bumpstops (had them for about 7 months now) and the look is second to none for my taste...gave my car the exact stance I was looking for. I love this site, but the one thing I've realized is that everyone has a different opinion, and you just need to do your own research and go with the facts and make your own decision. I had enough proof and talked to enough people to decide on the Sportlines and I have no regrets. The only problems I've ever had are railroad tracks, which I've bottomed out my LTs a couple times going as slow as I possibly could.
If I were driving the car everyday, it would be another story, I'd probably go with something more practicle, but like I said, these are good for what I need
If I were driving the car everyday, it would be another story, I'd probably go with something more practicle, but like I said, these are good for what I need
10-21-2007, 05:39 AM
#33
Your car looks PERFECT!!!! Very very nice!!! Wheels look perfect to the wheel wells!!
The way I look at it is....I have a lifetime warranty on my Bilsteins so thats why Im choosing them. If Konis had a lifetime warranty I probably would shell out the extra cash. But they arent so IMO the bilsteins offer me the best choice for my needs.
The way I look at it is....I have a lifetime warranty on my Bilsteins so thats why Im choosing them. If Konis had a lifetime warranty I probably would shell out the extra cash. But they arent so IMO the bilsteins offer me the best choice for my needs.
Originally Posted by Koni
KONI Limited Warranty
Passenger Car, Light Truck & SUV
KONI, Inc, warrants all new KONI shock absorbers to the original retail purchaser against defects in material and workmanship, excluding mounting rubbers, washers and bushings, when used under normal operating conditions for as long as such purchaser owns the vehicle on which the KONI shock absorbers were originally installed.
Passenger Car, Light Truck & SUV
KONI, Inc, warrants all new KONI shock absorbers to the original retail purchaser against defects in material and workmanship, excluding mounting rubbers, washers and bushings, when used under normal operating conditions for as long as such purchaser owns the vehicle on which the KONI shock absorbers were originally installed.
11-01-2007, 03:32 PM
#40
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This is a fun *** thread. I will begin by making the statement that none of you guys really know wtf you're talking about at all with handling and springrates and why the Eibach sportlines are rated the way they are. See, to educated people, it's pretty freakin funny watching you argue and rant over increased springrate.
Let me tell you what happens when you lower a vehicle, you change its ROLLCENTER. This is a direct ratio of the center of gravity of the vehicle in relation to the suspension pickup points, the axis of the control arm and the, tierod ends.
Why do you think companies sell x2 balljoints that raise the pickup points? Why do we have adjustable control arms? Why am I wasting my time?
When you lower a car past its preset values, left uncorrected the rollcenter will/can go to infinity. I don't care how much rate you feel like dialing in, the nose will push. Sportlines are designed to run within adjusted parameters of a vehicle modified to compensate as such. They do NOT need the higher springrate, because this is not something that is compensated for. Work with ANY real chassis engineer and they will tell you how correct suspension geometry will allow mildly increased rate springs and a lower overall height.
Shock valving will only affect the rebound damping and YES, it is crucial to have shocks that work within this lowered parameter. It has NOTHING to do with lifetime replacment ****. You will kill those stockers in a week. Why? Because when shocks operate past their valving capability they airrate and foam is produced inside the cylinder. Just like your oil pans/trans if you overfill them. High perf adj is the ONLY way to go. PERIOD.
Bumpsteer kits are created so that there is no camber change throught the suspension travel range by moving the tierod end so that it stays parrallel to the arm throughout the range of travel. Look into them.
Caster camber plates will 'stop your tires from sitting on the insides'. That's negative camber...these will help to correct that. Caster will affect turn in and stability.
I urge all of you to do some research before you spout out.
My opinion, and what I will do, is run Pro-kits. I have sportlines on my mustang for the look, along with everything else stated. It handles well, but not like an engineered racecar. The rollcenter needs corrected, and I will correct such when I go tubular K member and adj control arms.
Prokits allow the use of stock dampers and keep the vehicle closer to the corrected range of travel allowed with stock components. THAT is why they are the same price as the 'race' springs, and is why people like them more. You get close to the stance, with a little extra spring rate to compensate.
Prokits and a good set of adjustable shocks are a very good way to go for a nice look and decent handling. Obviously there are 1000 extra points, but those will be helpful basics.
Sportlines look BADASS. For a daily/non performer, they'll do just fine FWIW. Just know you will get walked on the track (roadcourse etc.)
Figure out what you want to do with the car and choose accordingly. Notice the copy cat and knockoff sping companies on that chart up the rate for the drop with Hyperco (who makes eibach and other leaders springs) keep them lower...hmmm. coincidence??
Doubtful. Get educated.
$.02
-Tom
Let me tell you what happens when you lower a vehicle, you change its ROLLCENTER. This is a direct ratio of the center of gravity of the vehicle in relation to the suspension pickup points, the axis of the control arm and the, tierod ends.
Why do you think companies sell x2 balljoints that raise the pickup points? Why do we have adjustable control arms? Why am I wasting my time?
When you lower a car past its preset values, left uncorrected the rollcenter will/can go to infinity. I don't care how much rate you feel like dialing in, the nose will push. Sportlines are designed to run within adjusted parameters of a vehicle modified to compensate as such. They do NOT need the higher springrate, because this is not something that is compensated for. Work with ANY real chassis engineer and they will tell you how correct suspension geometry will allow mildly increased rate springs and a lower overall height.
Shock valving will only affect the rebound damping and YES, it is crucial to have shocks that work within this lowered parameter. It has NOTHING to do with lifetime replacment ****. You will kill those stockers in a week. Why? Because when shocks operate past their valving capability they airrate and foam is produced inside the cylinder. Just like your oil pans/trans if you overfill them. High perf adj is the ONLY way to go. PERIOD.
Bumpsteer kits are created so that there is no camber change throught the suspension travel range by moving the tierod end so that it stays parrallel to the arm throughout the range of travel. Look into them.
Caster camber plates will 'stop your tires from sitting on the insides'. That's negative camber...these will help to correct that. Caster will affect turn in and stability.
I urge all of you to do some research before you spout out.
My opinion, and what I will do, is run Pro-kits. I have sportlines on my mustang for the look, along with everything else stated. It handles well, but not like an engineered racecar. The rollcenter needs corrected, and I will correct such when I go tubular K member and adj control arms.
Prokits allow the use of stock dampers and keep the vehicle closer to the corrected range of travel allowed with stock components. THAT is why they are the same price as the 'race' springs, and is why people like them more. You get close to the stance, with a little extra spring rate to compensate.
Prokits and a good set of adjustable shocks are a very good way to go for a nice look and decent handling. Obviously there are 1000 extra points, but those will be helpful basics.
Sportlines look BADASS. For a daily/non performer, they'll do just fine FWIW. Just know you will get walked on the track (roadcourse etc.)
Figure out what you want to do with the car and choose accordingly. Notice the copy cat and knockoff sping companies on that chart up the rate for the drop with Hyperco (who makes eibach and other leaders springs) keep them lower...hmmm. coincidence??
Doubtful. Get educated.
$.02
-Tom