unsure on if i need all this
10-19-2007, 02:24 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
unsure on if i need all this i am getting ready to mess with the suspension and i was told by a company i would need all of this but i dont think that i do.
tubular adj. lcas w/ relocation brackets
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly)
tubular k-member
tubular single adj. panhard bar
3 point subframe connectors weld in
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly)
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs
the car is a street car and will only see the track maybe 4 times a year. thanks
tubular adj. lcas w/ relocation brackets
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly)
tubular k-member
tubular single adj. panhard bar
3 point subframe connectors weld in
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly)
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs
the car is a street car and will only see the track maybe 4 times a year. thanks
10-19-2007, 02:49 PM
#2
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You don't really need any of it to put your car on the track. Some of those things will improve your performance and some of those things you will be spending more dollar per benefit. Each of those modifications will have their pros and cons effecting the way the car will handle.
I'd just take your car to the track as is and find out what your car does that could need improvement on. Analyze your situation and then buy modifications to fix any problems you have.
I'd just take your car to the track as is and find out what your car does that could need improvement on. Analyze your situation and then buy modifications to fix any problems you have.
10-19-2007, 02:57 PM
#3
TECH Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hartsdale, NY
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A arms, sub-frames, torques arms, K-members, and LCAs don't do much for handling, if that is what you are looking to improve.
Get some good shocks and sway bars. They will do wonders.
Talk with Sam Strano who can help you decide what to get based on what you expect to improve over the stock factory set up.
Get some good shocks and sway bars. They will do wonders.
Talk with Sam Strano who can help you decide what to get based on what you expect to improve over the stock factory set up.
10-19-2007, 03:03 PM
#4
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Depends on what track he wants to go to? Road racing? 1/4 mile?
A tubular Kmember is mostly used to shed weight and make engine bay access easier. Tubular frames have had durability issues in performance situations. UMI has a new road race kmember which is slightly heavier but still lighter than the stock one and is supposed to be good enough for high performance applications. The front control arms I think help shed a little more weight and most allow camber adjustability which is useless for drag racing I would think. That's like a ~1000 dollar package to shed some front end weight. Question of how much are you willing to spend for what benefit?
A tubular Kmember is mostly used to shed weight and make engine bay access easier. Tubular frames have had durability issues in performance situations. UMI has a new road race kmember which is slightly heavier but still lighter than the stock one and is supposed to be good enough for high performance applications. The front control arms I think help shed a little more weight and most allow camber adjustability which is useless for drag racing I would think. That's like a ~1000 dollar package to shed some front end weight. Question of how much are you willing to spend for what benefit?
10-19-2007, 06:06 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: TX
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bang for buck parts I'd recommend
Drag Racing:
Full length torque arm with relocation crossmember
Poly/Rod lower control arms
A 12 bolt or 9" rear axle with some big fat drag slicks
Road Racing/ Autocross/ Back Roads and Daily Driving
Koni Shocks
Strano Springs and Swaybars
Wheels and tires (if not already sufficient)
Poly/Rod or Rod/Rod panhard bar
and then maybe
Torque arm and Relocation Crossmember
Poly/rod LCAs
Drag Racing:
Full length torque arm with relocation crossmember
Poly/Rod lower control arms
A 12 bolt or 9" rear axle with some big fat drag slicks
Road Racing/ Autocross/ Back Roads and Daily Driving
Koni Shocks
Strano Springs and Swaybars
Wheels and tires (if not already sufficient)
Poly/Rod or Rod/Rod panhard bar
and then maybe
Torque arm and Relocation Crossmember
Poly/rod LCAs
10-19-2007, 07:28 PM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,605
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
tubular adj. lcas w/ relocation brackets -
adjustable only if non-stock rear or frame damage. Relos only
if lowered.
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly) -
No
tubular k-member -
maybe, kind of expensive way to go about weight reduction, if
you do it get a "road race" and street tough one.
tubular single adj. panhard bar -
yeah, OK, but only if you don't like the stock bar's centering of
your axle presently. It could probably wait.
3 point subframe connectors weld in -
add weight, no general agreement whether they help more than
psychologically. Call it "maybe".
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly) -
only if you're hard over on drag launch suspension mods and like
a shitload of cabin noise.
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs -
drag, maybe; street / AX / road race, plenty of better options
adjustable only if non-stock rear or frame damage. Relos only
if lowered.
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly) -
No
tubular k-member -
maybe, kind of expensive way to go about weight reduction, if
you do it get a "road race" and street tough one.
tubular single adj. panhard bar -
yeah, OK, but only if you don't like the stock bar's centering of
your axle presently. It could probably wait.
3 point subframe connectors weld in -
add weight, no general agreement whether they help more than
psychologically. Call it "maybe".
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly) -
only if you're hard over on drag launch suspension mods and like
a shitload of cabin noise.
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs -
drag, maybe; street / AX / road race, plenty of better options
Trending Topics
10-20-2007, 12:17 AM
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Greater Chattanooga
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This question is very board.
I would say Konis/Sam springs and dual rod end panhard bar(does wondors for DD and handling) will be mean on the street and twistys and still lauch fine. If your have wheel hop etc you need to address them issues.
I would say Konis/Sam springs and dual rod end panhard bar(does wondors for DD and handling) will be mean on the street and twistys and still lauch fine. If your have wheel hop etc you need to address them issues.
10-20-2007, 01:47 AM
#10
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: TX
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
tubular adj. lcas w/ relocation brackets -
adjustable only if non-stock rear or frame damage. Relos only
if lowered.
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly) -
No
tubular k-member -
maybe, kind of expensive way to go about weight reduction, if
you do it get a "road race" and street tough one.
tubular single adj. panhard bar -
yeah, OK, but only if you don't like the stock bar's centering of
your axle presently. It could probably wait.
3 point subframe connectors weld in -
add weight, no general agreement whether they help more than
psychologically. Call it "maybe".
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly) -
only if you're hard over on drag launch suspension mods and like
a shitload of cabin noise.
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs -
drag, maybe; street / AX / road race, plenty of better options
adjustable only if non-stock rear or frame damage. Relos only
if lowered.
complete a-arm set up (chrome moly) -
No
tubular k-member -
maybe, kind of expensive way to go about weight reduction, if
you do it get a "road race" and street tough one.
tubular single adj. panhard bar -
yeah, OK, but only if you don't like the stock bar's centering of
your axle presently. It could probably wait.
3 point subframe connectors weld in -
add weight, no general agreement whether they help more than
psychologically. Call it "maybe".
tunnel brace mounted torque arm (chrome moly) -
only if you're hard over on drag launch suspension mods and like
a shitload of cabin noise.
qa1 f series adj shocks and springs -
drag, maybe; street / AX / road race, plenty of better options
10-20-2007, 08:35 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=coolformula;7978885]This question is very board.QUOTE]
i guess what i am asking is what is reccommended for a street car that will see the 1/4 mile track a few times a year but will mostly only be used on the street, has some wheel hop, isnt lowered at all and is looking for more traction mostly....
hope that helps some
i guess what i am asking is what is reccommended for a street car that will see the 1/4 mile track a few times a year but will mostly only be used on the street, has some wheel hop, isnt lowered at all and is looking for more traction mostly....
hope that helps some
10-20-2007, 10:18 PM
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fort Worth, Tx
Posts: 1,340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first get better tires, mt dr's or simliair, then get some suspension mods. i have poly/poly lca's, they helped alot with wheel hop in my car. i still have the stock torque arm, hopefully will be buying a full length tubular one soon to get rid of the rest of my wheel hop and low speed traction problems.
10-21-2007, 05:57 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ventura County, California
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First I would get a set of drag radials.
I would get a drag style rear anti roll bar and front and rear adjustable shocks.
If you still care about handling I would get a double adjustable front and single adjustable rear.
If not you can run the QA1 "r" drag valved single adjustable front and single adjustable rear.
If you have wheel hop you could use relocation brackets, to save money you can box the LCA's and panhard rod.
Later once you go faster I would look into a non-trans mounted torque arm set up.
As far as subframes you can install those whenever, but I would install them and use outriggers before you put in a cage.
The k-member and a-arms are not a real need until you get serious about your car going fast and feel the need to spend a lot of extra money to go a little faster.
Front and rear springs will help 1/4 stuff, it's all a trade off for street handling, personally I don't try to go around corners really fast, so I run 275# in front 150# in rear and doesn't bother me a bit since I am use to it.
You can also bypass the power steering pulley with a shorter belt at the track to gain a little power.
I would get a drag style rear anti roll bar and front and rear adjustable shocks.
If you still care about handling I would get a double adjustable front and single adjustable rear.
If not you can run the QA1 "r" drag valved single adjustable front and single adjustable rear.
If you have wheel hop you could use relocation brackets, to save money you can box the LCA's and panhard rod.
Later once you go faster I would look into a non-trans mounted torque arm set up.
As far as subframes you can install those whenever, but I would install them and use outriggers before you put in a cage.
The k-member and a-arms are not a real need until you get serious about your car going fast and feel the need to spend a lot of extra money to go a little faster.
Front and rear springs will help 1/4 stuff, it's all a trade off for street handling, personally I don't try to go around corners really fast, so I run 275# in front 150# in rear and doesn't bother me a bit since I am use to it.
You can also bypass the power steering pulley with a shorter belt at the track to gain a little power.
10-21-2007, 06:05 PM
#14
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Get the lca relo brackets, probably the poly/rod ctrl arms to help out with the wheel hop problem. I would seriously look into other options before buying the QA1 shocks though.
Koni's might be a good shock choice actually, but I don't know about suggesting Sam's springs for this. In drag racing you want the front end to lift and stock springs would be a better choice for that.
Koni's might be a good shock choice actually, but I don't know about suggesting Sam's springs for this. In drag racing you want the front end to lift and stock springs would be a better choice for that.