tylergarceau

iTrader: (2)

what is the plus of getting it besides a few pounds lighter?? is it worth the $500? really curious

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

The tubular design has a lot less surface area so it makes it a heck of a lot easier to work on the engine, remove and install parts. There's usually more room for larger components like headers and turbos, custom plumbing etc. They can be made much stiffer than stock welded stampings which is good for hard conering without deflection. But of course the biggest reason is it looks super bad ***.

Vernon

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Weight is one of the main reasons why they are used. They may only save 25-30lbs but combined with a few other items you can easily cut 100+ lbs off the front end.

Secondly, the additional room they offer for larger headers and turbo set-ups is a major plus.

If I can help please let me know. Thank you!

Ryan

tylergarceau

iTrader: (2)

umi, whats the difference between road race and the original k member your selling. from what read, mainly more stiff? stronger? anything else. i think im going to order one.

tylergarceau

iTrader: (2)

thank you manic

tylergarceau

iTrader: (2)

can you see it from above the car? hood poped obviously lol

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

If you look around the site long enough you'll realize that most people want pics of thier car with the front wheels pushed off the ground, that's when you see it. LOL

Vernon

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

We recommend the road race version for vehicles that will actually be exposed to road racing or autocross consistently. For vehicles street driven, drag raced and occasional twisties the regular version is designed for that and will hold up.

If you have any more questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

i bought the road race version even though im using it for drag racing and its a really nice piece of work.

BMR Suspension

iTrader: (6)

As previously mentioned weight and clearance are 2 of the main reason people entertain the idea of using a tubular K-member. An additional feature we have is the ability to allow for more camber adjustment for lowered vehicles.

If you have any other questions regarding our product line please feel free to ask.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Do either of you guys offer the K-member in raw steel, before powder coating?

What I want to do is modify the unit to raise the engine, rack, etc... about 1" higher than stock. Basically as high as the intake to cowl will allow without rubbing. For the most part it looks feasible. The one issue that may arise is the area where the caster bushing goes.


Based on the experience you have, does it look possible to cut off the body mount and weld it back on higher or just fab a new one higher?

(The reason for all this is for a radically lowered car so all the clearance I can get will be helpful)

Thanks.