K-member trade off's?
 

I am seriously considering an UMI Race K-member as it seems to be the strongest one I can research. I don't mind paying the price tag for a better constructed unit, my question: is there any trade-offs with using any aftermarket K compared to stock?

I've heard of wheel rubbing issues, increased vibrations, and "others".

Has anyone had any complications with this K-member or even any other manufacturers in general?

I'd like to know this as well

Nothing to be looking out for?

Hello, Thanks for considering our product :D

Our K-member retains the A-arms in the factory location so rubbing will not be a issue. But I have heard of others moving the wheels back or forth, I have not personally seen this though.

As for vibrations, the K-member really has no effect on this. My guess is there were multiple items installed with the K-member so a assumption of the K-member causing vibrations could be possible. It won't drive any different then a car with a factory K-member.

If I can help anymore please ask and I am glad to. Thank you!

Ryan

The K-member itself should cause no changes to ride or handling. Thing is, most people go to poly motor and tranny mounts at the same time, which WILL cause massive changes (especially the tranny mount).

What kind of changes?

I have changed to poly bushings all around already and you can "feel" more of the car. Which is what I wanted. Just wanted to make sure everything lines up perfectly with the install so I don't have to worry.

He's talking about vibrations.... But I have poly engine mounts in my car, and it's no issue. A poly tranny mount has increased driveline vibration though. None the less, none of that has anything to do with the K-member. :)

Thanks for the replies. I'm trying to decide if $500 is really worth it for the 22lbs in weight savings.

Is there a major structural difference between the stocker and the UMI race/street version?

you should also keep in mind that you are not only shedding weight off the front, but you are gaining strength and extra adjustability with the new k-member, as well as gaining much-needed clearance for things like long-tube headers. for $490 for the standard version, or $570 for the even stronger road race version, that seems like a bargain.

That's a valid point. I just started adding up figures of what it's going to cost to do my build. My head hurts. :lol:

I think I will do the standard version, it seems like a good deal. I'm sick of my headers hitting the stocker. Not to mention getting to the spark plugs should finally be easier now.