novajess1972

iTrader: (1)

I DID TRY TO SEARCH.....before anyone brings it up. I put in "brake install" and "brake pressure" and came up with nothing useful. I also looked in the BRAKE FAQ Sticky. It only talks about different brake set ups, rotors, compounds, etc.

Anyway.....

1. How do I get the pressure back in my brakes after just changing out pads? On the mid 60s and 70s cars I have done, you pretty much just pump the brakes until pressure returns. And on a couple imports I've owned, you would just pump the E-brake until pressure returns. So how about our F-body? (thsi is my first...) I pumped the brakes for a while, then drove it some. Seems there's some pressure, but not like there was prior to new pads.

2. Now that I have changed the pads, the brake system seems to heat up way more than before. I DO realize that the friction between the pads and rotors emits plenty heat to the calipers/rotors/pads. However, I test drove the car today after the pad swap and the wheels themselves seem to be extra frickin hot after only 2-3 miles of driving at approximately 50-60mph plus some test-braking. Is that normal? Have they been getting that hot all the time and I just never paid attention? Its been cooling in the garage for about an hour now and the wheels are still pretty hot.

Any help is appreciated....even if you only have an answer for one of the two questions.

Thanx

novajess1972

iTrader: (1)

Anyone??

frisco88

iTrader: (3)

stupid question,did you check your master for fluid level,make sure its to the full mark,also are your brakes dragging because your calipers aren't disengaging properly ,requiring a rebuild,that could cause your brakes to heat up.You might want to bleed your brakes to bring back the pressure, and 1 more thing is your handbrake adjusted?

novajess1972

iTrader: (1)

LOL. Yes, the MC is full of fluid. I also thought this, as well....the possibility of them not disengaging properly, but I don't see how this problem would start and coincidentally following a pad change.

I've done plenty brake jobs without bleeding the lines. I know it wouldn't hurt, but not necessary. Especially when it's just pad swap. I have done the entire calipers or lines...thus bleeding system, but not for just this.

Is the E-brake adjusted for what????

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

the park brake has nothing to do with the hydralics of the regular brakes...... if they are that hot then something is wrong, either the caliber slides are stuck/mis-alinged or the flex brake lines are stopped up not allowing the fliud to release back into the master, could be a bad caliper but 9 out of 10 its the brake line not the caliper, if you did not open the system you should not have to bleed it. just pump the brakes a few time like any other brake system to fill the calipers with fluid and they are back to the way they were befor you pushed them back for the new pads. but that dont seem to be your problem. something is sticking making your brakes get that hot..........

novajess1972

iTrader: (1)

Ok, Gold. I will pump the brake pedal a bit more tomorrow once I get home from work. I probably just didn't do it enough before driving and testing.

Thanks

jess

gold98Z28

iTrader: (7)

i would jack up the wheels in question, have someone to work the brake pedel for you, spin the wheel, have them hit the brake then release, and make sure the wheel spins freely after releasing pressure. its normal for the pads to drag alittle, but should be easy to spin by hand.