johnh

iTrader: (1)

So after installing the Konis/Springs, Sway bar endlinks and bushings and new upper ball joints...I noticed (duh!) my lower ball joints are a mess (boots torn, grease coming out etc).

I have some new ball joints coming..

Any tips/tricks getting the old ones out and new ones in? The Service manual shows them to be press in/press out. I figure getting out -- hammer if necessary, but getting in?

Should I buy a tool to do it, or is there a way around it (C-clamp/hammer etc.) that doesn't require a special tool?

brapril714

iTrader: (1)

I rented the tool from Autozone and did it when I rebuilt my front end. Took about 5 mins to swap out.

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

^^^ What is the specific name of the tool? I'm gonna order a full front suspension rebuild kit. 90K is alota miles

jetlag

iTrader: (32)

I had the same problem when installing springs....oops! cut the boot!

The tool is $99 to rent, but of course you get your money back when its returned.

It's a ball joint press kit..will come with a clamp and several cups and things. I actually made my own to pop the ball joint out, but had to rent the real kit to reinstall it.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Where did you get the bakk joints and how much were they ?
If you happen to have parts numbers then better

djsanchez2

iTrader: (14)

^^^ They sell a full kit on ebay for $53, both upper, both lower, and inner and outer tie rods.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=360054166002

The Moog ones from napa are good too but kinda pricey.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...Susp&VehCode=Y

Cool ****. Thanks alot. I'll have to do that.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I didn't have any luck with the ball joint removal/installer tool, the one that looks like a big c-clamp with all the different "cup" adapters. I ended up using a hydraulic press to push the old ones out and the new ones in.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Call me an "old fool", but I wouldn't be chancing my life or my car on 4 ball joints and 2 tie rod ends that I bought for $53.......


A quality ball joint is at least $20-25, each, the last time I looked.

johnh

iTrader: (1)

I got AFCO lower Ball Joints from summit for $30 pair (although they say Moog Problem solver on them)

I will go rent the tool..

I still have one question though:

They look like this:


What the heck is the little brass thing for? (obviously there's the dust boot, nut and cotter pin and the ball joint itself..)

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

You're kidding, right?







On the odd chance you're not, it's a Zerk fitting. It screws into the bottom of the ball joint (after you've installed it), and that's how you pump grease into the BJ.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info !

johnh

iTrader: (1)

No I wasn't kidding--I probably would have figured it out after I took them out of the package, but it looks like they were pre-greased so I didn't want to get messy and I was hard to see where it would have gone.

Zerk fitting...learn something new everyday...

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Be careful installing that zerk fitting. You DO NOT need to "lean" on them. You will twist it off if you start trying to torque it in there with a bunch of force. Just use a 1/4" drive ratchet and wind it in until it bottoms and a very slight bit past that (just slightly snug). They break rather easily if you get too heavy handed with it.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

GOOD ADVICE!

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

Say John, I got AFCO lower ball-joints from Smiley's Racing and they don't look like that, the Afco's are a work of art and are silver cadium plated or similiar. Also, I think Summit screwed up and sent you Moog's.

The Afco's work as advertised with lower friction and I'm glad I found them.

Vernon

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

According to the AFCO website listing for balljoints, both standard (Afco part #20039) and low-friction (Afco part #20039LF) are actually listed with the same manufacturer interchange number (#K6145). This is not uncommon with these types of parts as they usually come from one unique manufacturer, then resold under different brand labels. Moog lists this part under K6145 from most auto stores I've been to. I've also seen this part branded from TRW and several other "auto store" brands as well. I believe that the LF versions are also manufactured by Moog chassis parts as well.

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

I understand what you're saying Foxxtron and it wouldn't surprise me if Moog was producing them for Afco. But I can say that I install plenty of Moog's and other premium stock replacement types and I've never seen or felt a ball joint like the Afco Low Friction. I'm pretty sure they are differerent. At least the ones I put in my car were. I was impressed with them.

Another thing that's common in the auto parts industry is for people to return the boxes with a different or old part inside to get their money back or because they changed their mind and couldn't return the others etc.

If it were my car, money, and time I would get on the phone with Afco and verify that their LF ball-joints may also be labeled as Moog Problem Solvers before I put them in. Mine were not.

Vernon

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they're different and look different as well, but they both are likely to be manufactured by them since I too have the 20039LF installed and they didn't say it either, but by taking some older 20039LF's apart, the parts had similar marking features on them.

I'm not readily familiar with AFCO's resale policy, but according to the AFCO website, the price for LF's are 46.75 USD, which is also what I was charged by AFCO since Summit didn't seem to have them in stock at the time. johnh seemed to have paid 30 USD for them, which is the usual price. So far it appears he got what he ordered.

Just had to include the information for clarity purposes.

johnh

iTrader: (1)

From my order:
AFC-20039 BALL JOINT A Shipped on 05/29/08 $15.25 2 $30.50

The packaging, sealed plastic bag said AFCO, the Ball joint bottom had Moog Problem Solver on them. I read on here, that the Moog PS were a decent parts so I installed them. There I guess aren't the LF variety.

I got them in, it took a little longer than 5 minutes though...the old ones were stubborn to pop off and the press kit I had took a bit of testing to get the right combination of tubes and such to press them out and new ones in.

Yes I was very gentle with the Zerk fittings, just got them in and snug with the 1/4" ratchet.

In true fashion, now there's a slight noise coming from the left front wheel sounds like a warped brake rotor to me--goes away with the brakes on. Probably since the lower BJ, upper BJ, endlinks, shocks/springs all had some 90K miles on them there probably allowed too much play on the front wheels...I had the suspicion that the rotors had some pulsing on stopping at times...oh well brakes are pretty easy.

johnh

iTrader: (1)

I'm not going to regret that am I? I don't put a ton of miles on the car (probably less than 5K a year) and I don't road race, I will probably hit the strip a few times though..

Edit: and oh yeah: Thanks for your help guys.