Rear suspension install guide?
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear suspension install guide?
I live in an apartment and have limited opportunities to get under the car; even when I do, all I have is a couple of jacks and jack stands. This means I want to do this all at once and have to do so with backyard tools.
I need to replace all the rear bushings (LCA, panhard, swaybar) and add a pair of Koni's (can only afford the rears right now), is there an install guide somewhere? I've been reading around all day (granted, I've gotten distracted by MANY interesting threads in the process), but haven't found anything.
I did read somewhere that you want to replace the LCA bushings one side at a time, and that you want to torque everything with the suspension level and under load. My problem is that, like I said, all I have are jacks and stands, and I certainly don't fit under the car with the wheels on the ground. I'm not sure how to go about putting all 4 wheels in the air (kinda difficult to get a jack under one end when the other is already in the air). Any tips on how to accomplish this?
I need to replace all the rear bushings (LCA, panhard, swaybar) and add a pair of Koni's (can only afford the rears right now), is there an install guide somewhere? I've been reading around all day (granted, I've gotten distracted by MANY interesting threads in the process), but haven't found anything.
I did read somewhere that you want to replace the LCA bushings one side at a time, and that you want to torque everything with the suspension level and under load. My problem is that, like I said, all I have are jacks and stands, and I certainly don't fit under the car with the wheels on the ground. I'm not sure how to go about putting all 4 wheels in the air (kinda difficult to get a jack under one end when the other is already in the air). Any tips on how to accomplish this?
#3
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure that will solve the problem:
1. I have to get all 4 wheels off the ground to get it level.
2. The rear FRAME has to be supported, rearend needs to move freely and not be supporting any weight in order to replace parts, then the load needs to be transferred to the rearend before torqueing, right?
3. When one end is in the air, how do you get the other end in the air?
This was actually the source of my problem. When I swapped gears a couple years ago, I only had the rear up and torqued everything with the rearend having only a little load and obviously not level; I haven't looked (limited opportunities), but it feels like the LCA bushings are torn up now (go ahead with the dumbass comments, I deserve it).
But thanx for reminding me that I DO have ramps with extenders; now where the hell did I put them???
1. I have to get all 4 wheels off the ground to get it level.
2. The rear FRAME has to be supported, rearend needs to move freely and not be supporting any weight in order to replace parts, then the load needs to be transferred to the rearend before torqueing, right?
3. When one end is in the air, how do you get the other end in the air?
This was actually the source of my problem. When I swapped gears a couple years ago, I only had the rear up and torqued everything with the rearend having only a little load and obviously not level; I haven't looked (limited opportunities), but it feels like the LCA bushings are torn up now (go ahead with the dumbass comments, I deserve it).
But thanx for reminding me that I DO have ramps with extenders; now where the hell did I put them???
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
IMO Do the rear first It's easy, and this is the easiest way to do it.
With the car backed up on ramps the suspension will still have a load on it. I've done Shocks, PHB, and LCAs many times with no problems. Just use a screwdriver to align the holes up to put the bolts back in, if needed.
With the car backed up on ramps the suspension will still have a load on it. I've done Shocks, PHB, and LCAs many times with no problems. Just use a screwdriver to align the holes up to put the bolts back in, if needed.
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can't even get my jack under my car and move the handle when the car is on the ground. So what I do is pull the car up 4 2x12's (one under each wheel). I then jack the front end up by the K-member and put stands under the K-member between each lower control arm bolt and let the car down onto the stands so that the front tires are just barely off the ground. I then raise the backend up by lifting on the pumpkin. I raise the back end until it's level with the front. If I need to go way high, like if I plan on crawling under the car. I put the rear stands under the rear axle, then I go back to the front and raise it as high as I want. I place the stands under the axle because the axle can pivot nicely on the stands vs. the rear subframe rails. Then I raise back end up till it's level with the front and put jack stands under the rear subframe (ideally where there is two layers of steel and not where the rear control arm bolts in, it's the frame rails which are more inboard). I then give the car a good shake to make sure it won't fall. Then usually I go do something else for a while then come back to work on it. This usually gives me the confidence I need so I don't think that the car will fall on me (I lost a friend in Highschool because a car did fall on him).
#6
I like your advice Major Lee Slow. yeah, I hate like hell to get under the car when it's on jackstands. I know a guy who had the car fall on him. He pulled all the ligaments from his chest bone but he lived to tell the tale. I think I'll double up on the jackstands and throw some blocks under there too! I probably won't have any room left to get under the car!