anyone ever fab they're own lca's?
#1
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anyone ever fab they're own lca's?
I'm kinda broke but I have access to a shop and am decent at fabricating.
any one ever fab they're own lca's and reloc. brackets?
It doesn't seem that hard to me but I would like to know how bad I could **** things up.
any one ever fab they're own lca's and reloc. brackets?
It doesn't seem that hard to me but I would like to know how bad I could **** things up.
#3
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I, along with a little help from the guys at work, fabbed a pair of LCAs for the rear. I used round DOM tubing, and sized them to use replacement rubber bushings, so I don't have any squeeks, rattles, or binding issues. They are, however, a lot stronger than stock.
I also did a round tubing panhard bar, a LONG time ago.
I also did a round tubing panhard bar, a LONG time ago.
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sorry if I sound like a noob I just haven't really got under there and looked very closely at the rear suspension.
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#10
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Hopefully if people do that, they are also swapping to poly bushings, or at least solid moog bushings. Otherwise I would think that star shaped stock bushings would still present the weak point.
#11
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i built mine. i got some really dense rubber on the chassis side and somerod ends on the rear end.
skim through lefthanderchasis.com/ jegs/ and sponsers. youll find many possibilities.
or sign up for frax.com and do a search and youll pull up some how to articles.
skim through lefthanderchasis.com/ jegs/ and sponsers. youll find many possibilities.
or sign up for frax.com and do a search and youll pull up some how to articles.
#12
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If you are hell bent on building some and have the time to do it (both putting them together and sourcing parts), great. Have at it.
But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?
But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
#13
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If you are hell bent on building some and have the time to do it (both putting them together and sourcing parts), great. Have at it.
But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?
But considering you can buy arms ranging from $109/pair for non-adjustable to $249/pair (and the $249 is for the big, bad double rod-ended ones that are powdercoated, have billet spacers for the rod-ends and made of Chrome-Moly..... What's your time worth?
GOOD POINT!
I did mine for two reasons. One, "just for the hell of it", and I had access to the Bridegport and lathe that the job required; two, because the aftermarket arms won't accept the OE sized, solid rubber bushings. My car is 100% street driven, and while I value "heavy duty" parts, I don't want/need the harshness of "solid" components, especialy on the roads I have to drive on.
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I like doing things myself. How long would it take? get some thick walled pipe, weld caps on the ends, drill and tap em, find some threaded ends and use a lock nut. that's pretty much it right?
#17
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1 1/4" OD, .095 wall, 1024 or similar mild steel tubing is common, so is 1 1/4 OD, .083 wall chromoly tubing is also common.
If you go to chassisshop.com you can find any rod end, alum spacer, tube end, etc, that you need. They also sell small quanities of tubing cut to length if you dont have access to a cutting device.
If you go to chassisshop.com you can find any rod end, alum spacer, tube end, etc, that you need. They also sell small quanities of tubing cut to length if you dont have access to a cutting device.
#20
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If you were to take the joint as it's shown in the LH picture, and obtain 2 pcs. of 1 5/8" OD, thick walled DOM steel tubing, "fish mouth" the tubing to fit the sleeve of the mount end, and make it 17.250" from the apex of the fish eyes, you'd have an LCA with articulating joints. I would have done that myself, but the roads where I am are too rough for a "solid" joint like that.