Have some question on suspension upgrades
10-25-2010, 09:56 PM
#1
Have some question on suspension upgrades Hey guys I'm lookin to start upgrading my suspension and have a few question.
So I have a lowered car do I need adjustable lca's? Or will just non adjustable work fine.
I'm also lookin to get a torque arm, so same goes for it since my car is lowered do I need an adjustable one? Cause I herd about if u lower the car it changes the pinion angle? Please correct me if I'm wrong and could some one explain to me why it would make a diff if I got an adjustable one. Why is the pinion angle make a diff?
Any info and advice will be greatly appreciated.
So I have a lowered car do I need adjustable lca's? Or will just non adjustable work fine.
I'm also lookin to get a torque arm, so same goes for it since my car is lowered do I need an adjustable one? Cause I herd about if u lower the car it changes the pinion angle? Please correct me if I'm wrong and could some one explain to me why it would make a diff if I got an adjustable one. Why is the pinion angle make a diff?
Any info and advice will be greatly appreciated.
10-25-2010, 10:17 PM
#2
Not trying to be a dick but you can get all of this and more from Link below.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-16/
Also if you have questions on the suspension Call Ryan with UMI he can help you with all your questions. http://www.umiperformance.com/
I went with UMI K-member, UMI upper & lower Adj A-arms to lose weight up front on the car.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-16/
Also if you have questions on the suspension Call Ryan with UMI he can help you with all your questions. http://www.umiperformance.com/
I went with UMI K-member, UMI upper & lower Adj A-arms to lose weight up front on the car.
10-25-2010, 11:26 PM
#5
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Depends on how far you lower your car you may have problems finding a neg camber. I just got one aligned that was lowered about two inches in the front, I was shooting for a -1 camber at 1" body preload in order to correct for lowering. All I was able to get was a big 7/8 degrees. The slot in the lower arm was maxed out and Im not in favor of opening it up any more. The idea here was to reduce drag and tire wear at the track. I also allowed for a 1/16th toe at preload.
Now before this turns into a slinging match, this car was dead on at static but when it lifted 1 inch of body the perfect front end went south. It toed out 1/8 and took almost 1 degree of + camber which was killing the tires and causing a left /right oscillation, that I was attributing to rear tire slip(I was wrong). As of right now the car darts straight ahead and does not pull sharply when brakes are applied. as it did in the past. Youll have to find a balance between track and street since tracks are usually flat and streets have a crown. The whole thing in a shell is that you may need LCAs. As far as your pinion angle, it does matter and should be adjusted as needed to get the lauch control you desire.
Now before this turns into a slinging match, this car was dead on at static but when it lifted 1 inch of body the perfect front end went south. It toed out 1/8 and took almost 1 degree of + camber which was killing the tires and causing a left /right oscillation, that I was attributing to rear tire slip(I was wrong). As of right now the car darts straight ahead and does not pull sharply when brakes are applied. as it did in the past. Youll have to find a balance between track and street since tracks are usually flat and streets have a crown. The whole thing in a shell is that you may need LCAs. As far as your pinion angle, it does matter and should be adjusted as needed to get the lauch control you desire.