6L80e rebuild in N. Texas - Recommendation
02-06-2023, 03:22 PM
#1
6L80e rebuild in N. Texas - Recommendation A co-worker has a 2017 Silverado. Last week he told me his truck was in the shop because of some grinding noise. 104k on the clock. His mechanic just told him it needs to be rebuilt. I don't know how it was diagnosed, but he said his mechanic is pretty good and honest and he can trust him.
He was asking me for recommendations: local shop recommendation, vs on-line such as FinishLine, etc. I told him I've seen some guys also tweak stuff on HP Tuners...But I'm just not familiar with the 6L-series. Does anyone know a local reputable shop in the North Texas area? This is just for reliable commuter vehicle. Basically stock truck.
Is the torque converter, the pistons that are prone to cracking and a tune the basic issues with the 6Ls? What else fails on them? I think he was planning on doing the full DOD/AFM delete in the near future. Bummer.
Your advice is much appreciated.
He was asking me for recommendations: local shop recommendation, vs on-line such as FinishLine, etc. I told him I've seen some guys also tweak stuff on HP Tuners...But I'm just not familiar with the 6L-series. Does anyone know a local reputable shop in the North Texas area? This is just for reliable commuter vehicle. Basically stock truck.
Is the torque converter, the pistons that are prone to cracking and a tune the basic issues with the 6Ls? What else fails on them? I think he was planning on doing the full DOD/AFM delete in the near future. Bummer.
Your advice is much appreciated.
Last edited by strutaeng; 02-06-2023 at 05:31 PM.
02-06-2023, 05:27 PM
#2
in my limited experience its generally the converter. the stock tune has it partially locking and unlocking very smoothly via PWM, which smokes the friction surface. The clutch disc itself is also fairly thin and has a tendency to deform into a dish shape so only the edge is making contact, they die shortly after and send **** though the very delicate pump assembly and when ignored, into the TEHCM/valve body assembly. the stock tune also has it dance around the gears a lot. 4-5-6-5-4-3-4-5 in just a block or so of part throttle driving. drives me nuts. you can use the bluecat trans tuning tool and eliminate 80% of the problems, including locking the TCC in 2 and 3 (why GM, why?)
also if he hasnt done so, turn off the AFM with HP tuners. usually if you get it before 100k and preserve good oil flow through the valve train they remain in good, quiet, working shape.
good luck. working on a '12 for a friend and man this thing is filled with stamped flimsy horseshit for hard parts.
also if you plan on adding boost or something, leave the torque management on. the transmission just isnt robust enough to shift under power. it must pull power via timing to stay alive.
also if he hasnt done so, turn off the AFM with HP tuners. usually if you get it before 100k and preserve good oil flow through the valve train they remain in good, quiet, working shape.
good luck. working on a '12 for a friend and man this thing is filled with stamped flimsy horseshit for hard parts.
also if you plan on adding boost or something, leave the torque management on. the transmission just isnt robust enough to shift under power. it must pull power via timing to stay alive.
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strutaeng (02-06-2023)
02-06-2023, 05:46 PM
#3
in my limited experience its generally the converter. the stock tune has it partially locking and unlocking very smoothly via PWM, which smokes the friction surface. The clutch disc itself is also fairly thin and has a tendency to deform into a dish shape so only the edge is making contact, they die shortly after and send **** though the very delicate pump assembly and when ignored, into the TEHCM/valve body assembly. the stock tune also has it dance around the gears a lot. 4-5-6-5-4-3-4-5 in just a block or so of part throttle driving. drives me nuts. you can use the bluecat trans tuning tool and eliminate 80% of the problems, including locking the TCC in 2 and 3 (why GM, why?)
also if he hasnt done so, turn off the AFM with HP tuners. usually if you get it before 100k and preserve good oil flow through the valve train they remain in good, quiet, working shape.
good luck. working on a '12 for a friend and man this thing is filled with stamped flimsy horseshit for hard parts.
also if you plan on adding boost or something, leave the torque management on. the transmission just isnt robust enough to shift under power. it must pull power via timing to stay alive.
also if he hasnt done so, turn off the AFM with HP tuners. usually if you get it before 100k and preserve good oil flow through the valve train they remain in good, quiet, working shape.
good luck. working on a '12 for a friend and man this thing is filled with stamped flimsy horseshit for hard parts.
also if you plan on adding boost or something, leave the torque management on. the transmission just isnt robust enough to shift under power. it must pull power via timing to stay alive.
Also, I recall a cooler thermostat bypass modification...Is that also a must?
Last edited by strutaeng; 02-07-2023 at 07:48 AM. Reason: Clarification
