Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

I'm planning on installing a dedicated 20A circuit in my garage for an air compressor and while I'm doing the work I also wanted to install a 220V circuit for a welder in the future. I think I've got the basics down and I have a friend helping me that's done some extensive wiring in the past. I'm planning on using a 50A breaker for the welder circuit and a single outlet (small garage) near the door. FWIW, my house is only about 5 years old and has 200A service.

My question is with regard to the type of outlet I need to install for the welder. I don't currently have a welder, but would be looking at a Millermatic 175 or Hobart 180 if/when I do get one. Can anyone recommend the correct outlet to install to support one of these? I'm thinking I need a NEMA 6-50R receptacle, but I'm not sure. Its my understanding that the plug for a 220V welder is not the same as a range or dryer. Is this correct?

bowtie9696

I have a millermatic 175, and it uses a receptacle that looks like an oversized 110 3-prong one (2 flat prongs side-by-side and a round one). One of the flat prongs is larger that the other. I'm not sure on number though. The 50A breaker is what I used as well. Miller only recommends a 20A, but I already had the 50A in there. I have 200A service as well and haven't had any problems using the welder or compressor. In short the connector is not the same as a range or dryer. Lowes will have what you need, the one that I got has a black plastic case and is about 3"x3"x6" in size. Hope this helps.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I use dryer receptacles. The plugs/receptacles are
commonly available, they are high current rated and
the "Homers" know what the hell you're talking about
if you can't find it yourself in the racks.

Before I wired the garage I just unplugged said dryer and
used that supply, so I was already "committed" plug-wise.

Rat_Fink

You need to use a socket or plug that rated for the amps the device draws.
The wire and circuit breaker also have to be sized for the amps the device draws.
The prongs are differn't so you can't plug a 30 amp device in a 50 amp outlet and so on.
If you did the 30 amp device could burn up before the 50 amp breaker trips

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all the input. I talked with Miller and their 230VAC units use the NEMA 6-50P plug, so 6-50R is what I need for my setup.

N20Silverado

All of the components of any circuit MUST be equal to or greater than (ampreage rating) of the circuit breaker that feeds it.

1. Wire size

2. Devices ( Receptacles, Switches, Plugs, Disconnects, Motor Starters)

For example: You install the 6-50R in your garage for your welder but it is wired to a 20A breaker with #12 wire (assuming the distance is fairly short). This is fine because the breaker will trip before you excede the rated current of the wire you are feeding it with.

You really need to find out how much amperage the welder you are interested in draws and then install a properly sized circuit to feed it. My guess is the 20 amp circuit you are planning will not run the welder you are looking at.

code4

iTrader: (30)

This is what my outlet looks like. I also made an extension cord out of heavy gauge wire so I can reach all over the shop and outside when needed.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

N20, I think you may have misunderstood my comment thinking that I was using the 20A for the welder, which is not the case. The welder is rated at 20A, but I'll be putting in a 50A breaker, #6 wire, and the 6-50R receptacle for it. I'm actually doing two circuits, one for my little air compressor (20A, 110V) and one for a welder (50A, 220V).

Hey code4, thanks for the pic. That's the same plug I found at Home Depot this weekend.

I actually ended up installing the 20A, 110V circuit for the Air compressor and that was a snap. The only thing that sucked was the 2 hours my buddy and I spent at Home Depot trying to find the right parts. I swear whoever orders parts at my local HD has no concept of what people actually do with the parts. I was going to use plastic conduit 1" dia for the #6 wire. They had 1" straight tube, but no 90* elbows. They had metal 90's, but only the water tight ones. Argghh. I asked two of the employees for help and they were pretty much useless for anything beyond cutting wire.

I'll have to look around some more to finish the 220V project.

Rat_Fink

If you use plastic conduit you also need to pull a ground wire.
To be in code if you pull two number 6 gauge wires you also need to pull a neutral and a ground I would think 10 gauge on these two would be ok for a 50 amp circuit.

Pulling the extra wires sound like a pain but is the right way to do it according to the national electrial code.

N20Silverado

Fulton 1- Sorry about the misunderstanding. I reread your first post and realized I did not read it close enough.

Rat Fink- The need for a neutral depends on the type of plug you are installing. The 6-50r does NOT need a neutral wire. It is a 220volt receptacle not a 220/120volt receptacle. The ground wire is a MUST! It must be attached to all metal parts of the electrical system.

jimmyblue- old 3 prong dryer receptacles are non-grounding, the middle prong is actually a neutral not a ground. Be careful.

Rat_Fink

This link breaks the process down to some easy steps.

220volt install