FS: 1998 Camaro Z28 Hardtop. Well built Procharged street car.
04-05-2017, 10:06 AM
#1
FS: 1998 Camaro Z28 Hardtop. Well built Procharged street car. Year: 1998
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro
Price: $17500
Mileage: 45000
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): TX
Color: Silver
Transmission: Automatic
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive
LS Engine?: Car has LS engine
I am asking $17,500 and am not looking for trades. I have my eye on a couple specific cars if this one sells. I don't need to sell, but like I said, I'm wanting to make a bad decision and get a race car.
The car currently has 45K miles and has always been adult owned. Most F-bodies on the market today have over twice that mileage and at this point they have moved down the economic scale to the point where too many have been owned by younger owners who do not build them right or care for them properly. I am the third adult owner and the car has always been super well maintained and various stages of the build have always been done right with no corners cut.
The car still has full interior with A/C, 12 disc CD changer, cruise control, all options still installed with exception of ABS. ABS module was removed and SJM ABS delete kit installed. The rear seats and seat belts are currently removed because I never have more than one passenger so I viewed them as excess weight. They are wrapped up in heavy duty contractor bags and come with the car.
Paint and interior are in excellent shape for the age. A couple minor rock chips and scratches but only the very minimal "unavoidable" amount that even a very carefully driven and maintained car gets. The car gets constant compliments at car shows/meets because people are accustomed to seeing most 4th gens getting rough around the edges and this car is still extremely nice.
Performance
- Took the car to SAR in February. in a 66-68* weather, it ran 10.4's footbraking and 10.3's on the trans brake, trapping 133-134 MPH Best slip was a 10.33 ET.
- The car dyno'd 590 RWHP a few years ago after I did the cylinder head and exhaust upgrade. It hasn't been on a dyno since, but current time slips indicate it may be putting down a little more, given the weight of the car and the trap speed.
Engine
- Stock bottom end LS1 with 243 heads. Approx 2K miles on the heads since they were completely gone through and rebuilt by Glenn Behrens.
- D1SC Procharger with EPP Front Mount Intercooler
-8 rib setup with 4.25" pulley - very low boost of 7.1 psi
- ATI Race Bypass Valve
- 9” thin profile fan assembly (Spal 30100452)
- Main fan has been upgraded from the original fan from the kit to a nice Spal fan, approx 2 years old
- Recent brand new radiator and low mileage water pump
- LS6 intake
- Speed Inc Blower Cam 224/232 581/595 LSA 114
- Fresh Comp 918 Springs
- Comp Push Rods
- Custom billet MAF housing and LS3 card style MAF
Exhaust
- Hooker long tubes with black ceramic coating
- Custom Y pipe build by DB Rods from a Flowmaster merge
- QTP Electric Exhaust Cutout and Switch
- Spintech Muffler
Fuel
- dual in tank Walbro GSS340 pumps (255 LPH each)
- Lonnie's performance custom fuel system wiring harness
- custom feed and return lines (converted to return style system)
- Fuel Labs boost referenced FRP
- Rails and cross over from KP Racing
- Hobbs switch that activates second pump at 4 PSI boost.
I spent about $2500 on fuel system upgrades about two years ago. Lines, rails and APFR were installed by Calvo Motorsports. The invoice at Calvo was $2K alone.
Methanol System
- AIS Stage 2 Progressive Meth/Alcohol System (AIS100205)
uses windshield washer reservoir.
Transmission
- RPM Transmission - Level 5– 4L65E
- Rossler Trans Brake with Momentary Switch (Hidden)
- Vigilante 3600 Converter
- Lingenfelter 2-step
- Line Lock
Rear End
- Moser 9” Rear end with race axles and 3.73 gears
- BMR Fabrication XSB002H – Extreme Rear Roll Bar
- Tubular Panhard Bar
- Brand new PST 4" aluminum driveshaft from Brute Speed with upgraded forged chromoly yoke.
Suspension
- AJE tubular K member and tubular lower A arms.
- Front: AFCO springs with Strange double adjustables. Spings and shocks are just a few months old.
- Rear: QA1 Precision 12 point adjustable (R series)
- F-body Polyurethane Motor Mounts (Prothane 7-512)
- Subframe Connectors
- Tubular Lower Control Arms
- LCA relocation brackets, welded in.
- Tubular Torque Arm off the transmission and bolted to the cross member.
Gauges
- Autometer Boost & Fuel Guage in A-Piller mount.
- NTK wide band installed last year with NGK box. Plugs right into my HP tuners Pro box for easy AFR data logging.
Wheels and tires
- Weld Pro Stars 15x4 up front with fresh "skinnies" but they are real tires, not front runners and are about a year old.
- Weld Pro Star 15x10 with 28x10.5 stiff wall Hoosier slicks. Have 3 trips to the track with about 12 passes on them. Car was always trailered to track.
I also have a set of very nice condition factory "snow flake" wheels with fresh street tires on them that can be included. I bought a set of Kumho street tires maybe 2 years ago thinking I would put them on if just cruising around. As it turned out, I have put them on the car twice for a total of about 100 miles.
Interior
- great condition with no rips, tears etc. in leather seats. Console lid is NOT broken and dash is NOT cracked - like we see is so many f bodies these days. Door panels are excellent with no rips or cracks.
- largely stock with exception of gauges and wide band mentioned previously. Line lock controller tucks into ash tray and trans brake controller plugs into the aux power port (under parking brake handle) and is stowed in console when not in use.
- The ash tray lid is broken. Was like that when I bought the car, probably because the line lock controller is stored there, so it had to be opened every pass. I just removed it and put it in a box but it will come with car.
Misc
Tinted Windows 20%
15 pound AGM battery with custom hold down. No problems cranking the car and less than half the weight of conventional battery. Current battery is less than one year old.
The D1 head unit was sent back to Procharger approx 2 years ago to be freshened up. While it was out, I dyno'd the car motor only out of curiosity and it put down 410 to the wheels motor only on a Dynapack loaded dyno.
I recently replaced the rear hatch struts with new OEM units. No guillotine hatch.
The bad:
very little "bad" at all, but I want to be upfront and report that the front driver side fender was replaced. The owner I bought the car from replaced it after the original was scratched. I know, it didn't make sense to me either to replace the fender due to scratches, but they showed me and gave me the original fender and I can do the same to a buyer.
The Moser 9" "sweats" a little gear oil when it cools down when parking the car after a drive. It doesn't even leak enough to leave any oil on the floor, but the bottom of the diff gets some seepage. I just check the level a couple times a year and it's not a problem.
