Aftermarket parts for 1998 Buick ??
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You don't need a puller or any special tool.Remove the supercharger drain plug and using a syringe remove the supercharger oil located in the snout. Remove the supercharger snout and you'll see the coupler. Remove the old one and place in the new one. Make sure to apply some bearing grease on the coupler holes.You can buy everything on ZZperformance.com
I changed the coupler on my brothers 98' GTP and it was real easy.
I changed the coupler on my brothers 98' GTP and it was real easy.
Btw, Im fairly sure its not gonna smell as bad as burnt gear oil....
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so I ordered my plugs, s/c oil and coupler yesterday night...
and I got the piece it was leaking from through GM...
Its a L shape hard plastic hose/pipe, that connects to the manifold.. thats where it was leaking from..
and I got the piece it was leaking from through GM...
Its a L shape hard plastic hose/pipe, that connects to the manifold.. thats where it was leaking from..
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Ok, I drained the oil, took off the 10 bolts tha hold it on and took off the snout..
I replaced the old coupler with the new one(it apprears to be unidirectional)..
Now Im just curious. the old one slid right off, but the new one was much more difficult to get on.. I put some grease on the coupler holes and I gently hammered it on the gear so it will slowly slide on, and it eventually slowly slid on.... (is this normal?)
So anyway, I put it back on and put gray silicone(I know its not as high temp as the orange, but its all I had). on the snout and tightened it all back up(it appears there was no gasket before, just a very thin, light coat of orange silicone)...
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Also, I am going to change the spark plugs, I got NGK TR6s for them, and am gapping them at .050"-.051" or so...
Also yes the supercharger oil did stink pretty bad, and I know there wasnt a lot of mileage on it, I put the new oil in and it was clear and fairly vicsous(Im not sure if this is normal, because the used oil was brownish black)...
Anuway The Used supercharger oil smell reminds me of something, But I cant remember what it is..
I replaced the old coupler with the new one(it apprears to be unidirectional)..
Now Im just curious. the old one slid right off, but the new one was much more difficult to get on.. I put some grease on the coupler holes and I gently hammered it on the gear so it will slowly slide on, and it eventually slowly slid on.... (is this normal?)
So anyway, I put it back on and put gray silicone(I know its not as high temp as the orange, but its all I had). on the snout and tightened it all back up(it appears there was no gasket before, just a very thin, light coat of orange silicone)...
----------------------------------------------------------
Also, I am going to change the spark plugs, I got NGK TR6s for them, and am gapping them at .050"-.051" or so...
Also yes the supercharger oil did stink pretty bad, and I know there wasnt a lot of mileage on it, I put the new oil in and it was clear and fairly vicsous(Im not sure if this is normal, because the used oil was brownish black)...
Anuway The Used supercharger oil smell reminds me of something, But I cant remember what it is..
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Hey I have your Brake pads man, Ill try n give em sometime this upcoming week...
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Drove the buick back today...
the car is idling a bit rough and cruises rough... any rpms below 3k is rough and not firing well.. after 3000rpm, especially at WOT, it drives fine...and pulls normal above 3000rpm, til 8psi of boost... But any rpm below 3k its rough and sounds broken up and feels shakey...
COuld this be the spark plugs?
the Tr6s are meant for more boost(which I plan on getting a pulley soon) and gapped at .050" - I know the Tr55s are recommended to be gapped at .055" on these cars...
So could this be the issue??
The engine is shakey even at idle ... Also I checked and the spark plug wires are NOT crossed... or could it just be running on 5 cyl or something? but if this is so, why is it fine at WOT on higher rpms??
Any suggestions??
edit: Oh and also, the SES light is blinking..
the car is idling a bit rough and cruises rough... any rpms below 3k is rough and not firing well.. after 3000rpm, especially at WOT, it drives fine...and pulls normal above 3000rpm, til 8psi of boost... But any rpm below 3k its rough and sounds broken up and feels shakey...
COuld this be the spark plugs?
the Tr6s are meant for more boost(which I plan on getting a pulley soon) and gapped at .050" - I know the Tr55s are recommended to be gapped at .055" on these cars...
So could this be the issue??
The engine is shakey even at idle ... Also I checked and the spark plug wires are NOT crossed... or could it just be running on 5 cyl or something? but if this is so, why is it fine at WOT on higher rpms??
Any suggestions??
edit: Oh and also, the SES light is blinking..
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blinking ses usually means misfire...
like i said you wanna run the tr6s at stock gap...
colder plugs need a tighter gap to function properly...
it would be safe to say, returning the plugs back to stock gap (.04) will take care of your idle/ low rpm misfire issue..
ill be around saturday if you wanna cruise by...
also forgot to mention, if you plan on upping the boost you actually want to run a tighter gap to prevent blowout... but for now use stock gap asa starting point...
like i said you wanna run the tr6s at stock gap...
colder plugs need a tighter gap to function properly...
it would be safe to say, returning the plugs back to stock gap (.04) will take care of your idle/ low rpm misfire issue..
ill be around saturday if you wanna cruise by...
also forgot to mention, if you plan on upping the boost you actually want to run a tighter gap to prevent blowout... but for now use stock gap asa starting point...
Last edited by SUCK MY SS; 06-11-2009 at 10:21 PM. Reason: additional info
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blinking ses usually means misfire...
like i said you wanna run the tr6s at stock gap...
colder plugs need a tighter gap to function properly...
it would be safe to say, returning the plugs back to stock gap (.04) will take care of your idle/ low rpm misfire issue..
ill be around saturday if you wanna cruise by...
also forgot to mention, if you plan on upping the boost you actually want to run a tighter gap to prevent blowout... but for now use stock gap asa starting point...
like i said you wanna run the tr6s at stock gap...
colder plugs need a tighter gap to function properly...
it would be safe to say, returning the plugs back to stock gap (.04) will take care of your idle/ low rpm misfire issue..
ill be around saturday if you wanna cruise by...
also forgot to mention, if you plan on upping the boost you actually want to run a tighter gap to prevent blowout... but for now use stock gap asa starting point...
that sucks... the rear plugs sucked to get to... Maybe ill just run Tr55s instead??
I may be able to swing by sat.. thanks for the heads up man..
how is your car coming along?
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no...its misfiring because it is too large of a gap..
i think youll be fine with the sixes if you plan on upping the boost soon.... it will help to ward of detonation...especially with your driving style... i think your motor will thank you..lol
haha my car is back in the corner...the wiring is mostly done, just gotta wrap it all back up... but my heads are gone, and im super busy, dont have the time to put into another set right now...i might just slap on a set of stockers just to get the car running again... ive kinda lost interest in the car again... too many setbacks, takes the fun out of it...i just wanna get it running for now and figure it after that...i havent driven it in almost two years..
i think youll be fine with the sixes if you plan on upping the boost soon.... it will help to ward of detonation...especially with your driving style... i think your motor will thank you..lol
haha my car is back in the corner...the wiring is mostly done, just gotta wrap it all back up... but my heads are gone, and im super busy, dont have the time to put into another set right now...i might just slap on a set of stockers just to get the car running again... ive kinda lost interest in the car again... too many setbacks, takes the fun out of it...i just wanna get it running for now and figure it after that...i havent driven it in almost two years..
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no...its misfiring because it is too large of a gap..
i think youll be fine with the sixes if you plan on upping the boost soon.... it will help to ward of detonation...especially with your driving style... i think your motor will thank you..lol
haha my car is back in the corner...the wiring is mostly done, just gotta wrap it all back up... but my heads are gone, and im super busy, dont have the time to put into another set right now...i might just slap on a set of stockers just to get the car running again... ive kinda lost interest in the car again... too many setbacks, takes the fun out of it...i just wanna get it running for now and figure it after that...i havent driven it in almost two years..
i think youll be fine with the sixes if you plan on upping the boost soon.... it will help to ward of detonation...especially with your driving style... i think your motor will thank you..lol
haha my car is back in the corner...the wiring is mostly done, just gotta wrap it all back up... but my heads are gone, and im super busy, dont have the time to put into another set right now...i might just slap on a set of stockers just to get the car running again... ive kinda lost interest in the car again... too many setbacks, takes the fun out of it...i just wanna get it running for now and figure it after that...i havent driven it in almost two years..
Hey im looking for a part time 2nd job, you think strictly is hiring?