C5natie

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt recommend a 0w in CA. It doesnt get that cold enough. The problem with a 0w-40 is that the gao from 0-40 weight is so big that they have to use a lot more additives to make the oil respond like the viscosity you need. Those additives are a lot easier to breakdown than the oil itself. Thats why its better to run an oil weight closer to eachother, such as 15w-40 or 20w-50 for example. Actually Im switching from 10w-40 to 15w-40 because as that article I read stated it is 2 1/2 times better in high temp viscosity and more stable.

From article:
To make a 10w-40 oil, the manufacturer would start out with a 10 weight oil as the base stock. All by itself, this oil would thin out so much at normal operating temperatures that the oil film would be useless. So, they add these very special very long molecules, the VIIs. The VII molecules are as much as 1000 times as long as an oil molecule. The VII molecules curl up in a little ball at room temperature, but as the temperature gets higher they uncurl and stretch out, like a cat sleeping in the sunlight. The more stretched out the molecule is, the more it impedes the normal flow of the oil, thus raising the effective viscosity. Now, this sounds just a little too good to be true. Well, there are two catches: first, these molecules are not lubricants, so the more of them that you add the less oil you have sitting around lubricating things. Secondly, these VII molecules can be broken into pieces by various pressures and forces, like being squeezed through the transmission gears in a motorcycle or the hydraulic valves in a diesel engine. Every time a VII molecule gets broken, the oil loses some of its high temperature viscosity. Synthetic oils made from pure PAOs and/or Diesters typically have very few VIIs, so these oils are far less subject to viscosity breakdown due to shearing of the VII package. As a result, synthetics are far more stable in a motorcycle engine.

10w-30 oil increases its viscosity at high temperatures by a factor of three, which requires a significant amount of these VII molecules. 10w-40 oil increases its high temperature viscosity by a factor of four, which requires even more even longer molecules. 20w-50, which sounds a lot like 10w-40, only increases its high temperature viscosity by a factor of two and a half, so it requires fewer of these molecules than even 10w-30. 15w-40 also increases its high temperature viscosity by about two and a half, so this oil is also substantially more stable than 10w-40. Most passenger car oils today use inexpensive VII molecules that break apart relatively easily. Conversely, most diesel engine oil VIIs are chosen from more expensive chemicals that are more shear stable, since an oil change in a large diesel is expected to last for 15,000 to 150,000 miles.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Here some info stating Mobil 1 is a Group III oil,

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...iii-mobil-1-a/

http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/ot/6432.html

Sanderd

Mobile 1 High Mileage Fully synthetic 5W-30
$21.00 @ Walmart and $4.00 for an AC DELCo oil filter
2001 Camaro SS SLP LS1
...
Kendall Synthetic Blend 5W-30
$18.00 for a Firestone Change w/ discount
98 Chevy Blazer 4.3L Vortec

DarkKnightRider

ahhhhh **** ***** batman. not another one of these threads. Everytime someone starts one it turns into a flame war sooner or later.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd30.aspx

Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil sometimes when I know Im going to be going to the track (road course) or similar.

Otherwise its just Amsoil Full Synthetic 10w-30 High Performance Blend.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Last was 5W30 Mobil1 but all the news about Mobil1 downgrading themselves I am more inclined to seek other oils for my next oil change.

And in Cali there are cars that use 0W30 VW does not recommend anything else for their turbo motors and a lot of factory turbo cars use 0 cold weight, also Honda is 0W20 if you don't use their recommended oil you can cause a SES light and a common code that shows up is a VTEC code, they design the motor to use that oil.

Turbo cars in general should use a low viscosity oil, this is dues to the turbo needing oil and if you run a thick oil like 20w50 it could cause issues with lubricating the turbo and cause binding. Although I am not sure what the full race guys are using I can only go off of what I know from a few people I have known with turbo cars.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

^^
Give Shell Rotella T 15-30 a shot. That stuff really works for me.

For those guys realy debating what oil to use just spend $25 on an oil analysis and you'll see what your oil is really doing for your motor, or not doing.

93Z28rare

iTrader: (11)

You're not using RP anymore Nate?

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

Was using castrol syntec 5w-40.

Now i just run castrol syntec 5w-30. ive never had any oil issues, consumption, or anything.