Toyo TQ's traction problem,wrong air pressure or my setup?
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Toyo TQ's traction problem,wrong air pressure or my setup?
Ok, I just put on my toyo tq 275/40/17's and I cannot get traction to save my soul. On concrete roads in 60 degree weather I spin on 35 rolls like there's no tomorrow. From a dig it spins until it shifts into 2nd at 60mph and it is the same on blacktop. I've tried a small burnout to heat them and just have no luck. What tire pressure are you guys running yours at and is it still too cold out for them to hook?
My car is a stalled auto (yank ss3600 str 2.5) with 2.73 gears. It is lowered with bmr springs, koni str.t shocks/struts, bmr adj lower control arms, umi lca relocation brackets. they're the newer style with the 3 holes, I've tried all 3 and are in the lowest right now. I know the 17's aren't helping my cause, and it's probably not the ideal setup for this. But I can't be but around 400rwhp maybe, and I would think that these tires would hook at least some? Could I possibly need an aftermarket torque arm, or do I just need et streets? Because as you all know, it's pretty disappointing to dump $400+ into radials and not get any better traction than your street tires did.
I am open to any and all suggestions, thanks.
My car is a stalled auto (yank ss3600 str 2.5) with 2.73 gears. It is lowered with bmr springs, koni str.t shocks/struts, bmr adj lower control arms, umi lca relocation brackets. they're the newer style with the 3 holes, I've tried all 3 and are in the lowest right now. I know the 17's aren't helping my cause, and it's probably not the ideal setup for this. But I can't be but around 400rwhp maybe, and I would think that these tires would hook at least some? Could I possibly need an aftermarket torque arm, or do I just need et streets? Because as you all know, it's pretty disappointing to dump $400+ into radials and not get any better traction than your street tires did.
I am open to any and all suggestions, thanks.
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Wait till it warms up some. I'm blowing my Et street pros off till I shift into 3rd when it's cold out. Also although they call it a drag radial it's more of a soft street tire. Don't expect to much. Pressure for maximum traction is usually around 18-20 psi in a radial.
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OP, I'm not typically a big fan on the looks of LS1 F-Bodies, but your car looks awesome!
We make similar power. I run 275/40/17 ET Streets at around 30psi and can't hook from a dig at all. I don't have issues from a roll however. Drop that pressure down and see what happens, I drop mine down to 15-20psi when at the track or when trying to launch on the street and that seems to work well. I would experiment a bit, maybe lower the tires to 20psi and see what happens. If you get the traction you are looking for then increase the pressure from there and go as high as you can until you start to break traction. Just my .02
We make similar power. I run 275/40/17 ET Streets at around 30psi and can't hook from a dig at all. I don't have issues from a roll however. Drop that pressure down and see what happens, I drop mine down to 15-20psi when at the track or when trying to launch on the street and that seems to work well. I would experiment a bit, maybe lower the tires to 20psi and see what happens. If you get the traction you are looking for then increase the pressure from there and go as high as you can until you start to break traction. Just my .02
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I run my nt05r's at 28 lbs. on the street. On cool days I have no problem doing a rolling burnout. With drag radials in general once they start spinning they don't recover well. In the summer on say a 70+ degree sunny day I am no longer able to do rolling burnouts and hook from a dig with mild spinning
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OP, I'm not typically a big fan on the looks of LS1 F-Bodies, but your car looks awesome!
We make similar power. I run 275/40/17 ET Streets at around 30psi and can't hook from a dig at all. I don't have issues from a roll however. Drop that pressure down and see what happens, I drop mine down to 15-20psi when at the track or when trying to launch on the street and that seems to work well. I would experiment a bit, maybe lower the tires to 20psi and see what happens. If you get the traction you are looking for then increase the pressure from there and go as high as you can until you start to break traction. Just my .02
We make similar power. I run 275/40/17 ET Streets at around 30psi and can't hook from a dig at all. I don't have issues from a roll however. Drop that pressure down and see what happens, I drop mine down to 15-20psi when at the track or when trying to launch on the street and that seems to work well. I would experiment a bit, maybe lower the tires to 20psi and see what happens. If you get the traction you are looking for then increase the pressure from there and go as high as you can until you start to break traction. Just my .02
I run my nt05r's at 28 lbs. on the street. On cool days I have no problem doing a rolling burnout. With drag radials in general once they start spinning they don't recover well. In the summer on say a 70+ degree sunny day I am no longer able to do rolling burnouts and hook from a dig with mild spinning
Thanks for your reply's and I guess I'll try about 22psi on the street and wait for the temps to stay above 70. Are you guys running aftermarket torque arms? I do get a little wheel hop when it does grab traction at times, and I also get a little slapping/popping noise/feel on the wheel hop. No broken transmission mount and running a energy suspension torque arm bushing.
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I'm running an aftermarket torque arm. I'm surprised your getting wheel hop with having control arms, lca brackets etc.
I installed control arms, relocation brackets and a torque arm at the same time and never had wheel hop again. Unfortunately, because I did all three at the same time I don't know off hand if the torque arm alone would solve that for you but it could be something to consider.
Since you're lowered your pinion angle is more than likely off so an adjustable torque arm wouldn't be a bad idea IMO.
I installed control arms, relocation brackets and a torque arm at the same time and never had wheel hop again. Unfortunately, because I did all three at the same time I don't know off hand if the torque arm alone would solve that for you but it could be something to consider.
Since you're lowered your pinion angle is more than likely off so an adjustable torque arm wouldn't be a bad idea IMO.
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I'm running an aftermarket torque arm. I'm surprised your getting wheel hop with having control arms, lca brackets etc.
I installed control arms, relocation brackets and a torque arm at the same time and never had wheel hop again. Unfortunately, because I did all three at the same time I don't know off hand if the torque arm alone would solve that for you but it could be something to consider.
Since you're lowered your pinion angle is more than likely off so an adjustable torque arm wouldn't be a bad idea IMO.
I installed control arms, relocation brackets and a torque arm at the same time and never had wheel hop again. Unfortunately, because I did all three at the same time I don't know off hand if the torque arm alone would solve that for you but it could be something to consider.
Since you're lowered your pinion angle is more than likely off so an adjustable torque arm wouldn't be a bad idea IMO.
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I wouldn't concern myself too much with suspension set-up if I were you. I'm pretty sure it's just the tires. My TOYO's are about a year old and are about 50% worn now. At first they were decent on the street if I was judicious in throttle application from a dig. I took them to the track once and had to go down to 15psi to hook, whereas I can usually hook at 20-22 on Mickeys.
At 50% wear they have become somewhat hard and pretty useless on the street - especially when cold. The decline in performance over time and in the cold has been almost exactly as it was with the Nittos I have run.
Plus ripping them up with a good burnout doesn't seem to soften them up the way that Mickeys do.
At 50% wear they have become somewhat hard and pretty useless on the street - especially when cold. The decline in performance over time and in the cold has been almost exactly as it was with the Nittos I have run.
Plus ripping them up with a good burnout doesn't seem to soften them up the way that Mickeys do.
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My car lifts the front tire/s with a 275/40/17 from a low roll (10 mph on concrete) so youre doing something wrong or thats a shitty tire. I run between 17-20psi.
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Today it hit 74 degrees outside and it did a little better than it had, but I still spin bad from a dig and I get sideways from a 20 roll. 30 rolls I only spun for 20 feet or so and then started pulling pretty good. I've read a lot of good reviews on these tires so that's why I was curious on the tire pressure everyone was running and if maybe I needed an aftermarket torque arm.
Will a torque arm help with traction issues anyone? I'm thinking that I'm not going to hook good until it's 80+ degrees outside by the way it's handling right now.
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My TQs dead hook when warm from any speed even at my "street" inflation of 28psi. And I have a very similar suspension set up except I have a panhard bar which isn't listed in your sig. I'm also right in the ball park you're at on power. Except I have a 6 speed with 3.90 gears... Even at 60 degrees that's not really that cold I think after driving around enough the tires should build up enough heat for you to hook easily from at least a roll... Definitely something not right in my opinion.
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My TQs dead hook when warm from any speed even at my "street" inflation of 28psi. And I have a very similar suspension set up except I have a panhard bar which isn't listed in your sig. I'm also right in the ball park you're at on power. Except I have a 6 speed with 3.90 gears... Even at 60 degrees that's not really that cold I think after driving around enough the tires should build up enough heat for you to hook easily from at least a roll... Definitely something not right in my opinion.
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Et street radial. Cold digs never hooked but with a little tire speed say 5-10 mph it will pull the driver tire all day on concrete......thats on basically stock suspension, bilstiens lowering springs etc.
Side story, saw a 5.0 on the road and he wanted to run em. He said he never launched his car from a dig before so I recommend a 20 roll.....poor bastard never knew what hit him
Side story, saw a 5.0 on the road and he wanted to run em. He said he never launched his car from a dig before so I recommend a 20 roll.....poor bastard never knew what hit him
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Et street radial. Cold digs never hooked but with a little tire speed say 5-10 mph it will pull the driver tire all day on concrete......thats on basically stock suspension, bilstiens lowering springs etc.
Side story, saw a 5.0 on the road and he wanted to run em. He said he never launched his car from a dig before so I recommend a 20 roll.....poor bastard never knew what hit him
Side story, saw a 5.0 on the road and he wanted to run em. He said he never launched his car from a dig before so I recommend a 20 roll.....poor bastard never knew what hit him
I also got underneath my car and rechecked my tranny mount bushing and torque arm bushing. Both were fine along with my torque arm, no cracks but maybe a slight bend. I didn't realize the stock one was so flimsy until I pushed around on it and it started flexing. So I may order a torque arm if I can't hook from a dig in 85-90 deg weather. But I will say everyone's advice on waiting for warmer weather looks like it may fix 90% of my problem. I am leaning towards my torque arm needing replaced with an adjustable one.