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Anyone have any "flush" type setup wheels on a Chevelle?

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Old 03-25-2015, 03:31 PM
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Default Anyone have any "flush" type setup wheels on a Chevelle?

So I have a set of correct offset wheels for my chevelle (71), and I have it lowered 3", and I was thinking I wanted to go for more of that flush look. No not cambered in with the rim sticking out further than the tire, but the older cars wheels stick in so much more than the new style, not to mention the chevelles larger/wider wheel wells.
When I had a 4th gen f-body, or even 3rd gen there were so many pictures and write-ups for any topic that you wanted! and even though the chevelle is still has a large following there's not nearly as much info out there on them.
Mainly, does anyone here have one or know of one, with pics, etc. that could give me some insight here?
For now I think I'd like spacers to try (hubcentric) but just dont know how far i can go and work, and look good. Then ill see about getting a wider tire/rim/extend wheel that utilizes the extra space.
thanks for any help!!!!
Old 03-25-2015, 04:41 PM
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The problem is the way the sheetmetal comes together back there. I agree that the wheels have to be sunk too far in to tuck, but they can only roll so far. If your car has the wheel opening trim it just makes the effect look worse.

The only way to correct it fully would be to rework the metal lip and even then you will only be able to go so far.

Crawl under there with a light and sit looking from the inside and you'll see what I mean.

I used to get a bunch of **** for my 70s stance on 15x10"s with some height in the back, but I liked the tires closer to the edge of the wheelwell so it was the only way. I recently caved and got 17x9.5"s with 285 tires back there.

Current (tire is pushed as close to the rolled lip as I could get it, 5.5" BS wheel with .5" spacer):



Before (tires sit under the lip):

Old 03-25-2015, 06:39 PM
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Dude that looks good! It doesnt look like you could tuck the fender where you are but that looks perfect, given what we're working with here lol.
Im trying to do mine dropped with 18's type of look rather than the conventional (which arguably most people will think it looks better, like yours).
Didn't want to go 20's or anything crazy just kinda lowered, with larger than a 15 type look. So I won't be able to go quite that far in. Im just trying to avoid guessing, buying and trying, which is what i've had to do for a couple other things already haha. What's the front width and backspacing?
also what type of paint you running?
Old 03-26-2015, 08:40 AM
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Fronts and rears are all 17x9.5" 5,5" backspace MB "Old School" from Discount Wheel (cheapest nice wheels I could find). Front tires are 275/40 rears are 285/40.

I put a .5" spacer on the rear to push the wheel out. I might have been able to go a little more but once I found out it would require an adapter instead of a spacer I didn't bother measuring...wanted to keep the long studs for swapping to drag wheels and didn't want to bother with unbolting a wheel then unbolting and adapter at the track.

18"s will give you more tire options but the main cheap wheel in that size is the Boss 338 type which is on 1 in 4 muscle cars I see anymore and they were more expensive so I stuck with 17s.

My fender lips are rolled as much as I could...I alternated between a large crescent wrench and a heavy hammer. The metal is thick as **** and takes a lot of effort to bend.



The car is just in black epoxy primer. The paint peeled on the roof, trunk, and hood so I sanded it and just had this sprayed to protect until I could afford to get the car redone. It looked great when fresh...like really great. Eventually the UV rays faded it to gray and it pics up oil stains from fingertips and just looks like **** in general.



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