335 tire, 18" x 12.5" rim...almost fit...QUESTIONS about cutting....(PICS FIXED)....
#1
335 tire, 18" x 12.5" rim...almost fit...QUESTIONS about cutting....(PICS FIXED)....
So, the inner wells have been banged in enough from back when I put on 315 tires 12 years ago. So there will be no rubbing when I can get them on all the way. I think I only need 1/2" spacers to make this work.
First issue.......I will absolutely need to buy the Wolf offset LCA's. The tire hits it without even being pushed onto the wheel studs at all. The wheel will almost start to go onto the studs but hits the LCA. EASY FIX.
But....in the first picture below I need to cut all that crap off.....it is hitting the inner lip of the 18 x 12.5 rim while the rear end is hanging. So if I hit a bump it could slam the inner lip and tire. Thats easy....cut it all off. The bump stop has been gone for 12 years.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #1 BELOW----
Only hard part is this....see the picture below? The tire hits this when the rear end is hanging. So I could never change a flat unless I had a couple low profile hydraulic jacks with me.
Can all of that area in red outline be safely cut off, then have that top (3rd row) ridge banged flat. 3rd ridge is where I put the red line. Because that 3rd row ridge is pretty close to the structure that holds the top spring pocket in place so I wouldn't want to go any higher.
I could also bang the 2nd and 3rd ridge flat and leave everything there.....EXCEPT, definitely cut out the area in red in the first picture above.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #4 BELOW----
I would also need to either bang this vertical ridge flat, or just cut it out. Those 2nd and 3rd ridges clearly seen in this picture would have to be banged flat.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #2 BELOW----
They are some big bitches......but they looked great when we got them almost halfway onto the studs by jacking up the rear end while the car was on the lift.....so it would clear those ridges on the inner wheel well.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #3 and #5 BELOW----
THANKS..........
.
First issue.......I will absolutely need to buy the Wolf offset LCA's. The tire hits it without even being pushed onto the wheel studs at all. The wheel will almost start to go onto the studs but hits the LCA. EASY FIX.
But....in the first picture below I need to cut all that crap off.....it is hitting the inner lip of the 18 x 12.5 rim while the rear end is hanging. So if I hit a bump it could slam the inner lip and tire. Thats easy....cut it all off. The bump stop has been gone for 12 years.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #1 BELOW----
Only hard part is this....see the picture below? The tire hits this when the rear end is hanging. So I could never change a flat unless I had a couple low profile hydraulic jacks with me.
Can all of that area in red outline be safely cut off, then have that top (3rd row) ridge banged flat. 3rd ridge is where I put the red line. Because that 3rd row ridge is pretty close to the structure that holds the top spring pocket in place so I wouldn't want to go any higher.
I could also bang the 2nd and 3rd ridge flat and leave everything there.....EXCEPT, definitely cut out the area in red in the first picture above.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #4 BELOW----
I would also need to either bang this vertical ridge flat, or just cut it out. Those 2nd and 3rd ridges clearly seen in this picture would have to be banged flat.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #2 BELOW----
They are some big bitches......but they looked great when we got them almost halfway onto the studs by jacking up the rear end while the car was on the lift.....so it would clear those ridges on the inner wheel well.
----PLEASE SEE PIC #3 and #5 BELOW----
THANKS..........
.
Last edited by LS6427; 08-31-2017 at 11:35 PM.
#4
offsets on those 18x12.5s? i'm trying to get 335s on my bird but info has been limited as for proper wheel sizes and offsets i dont care about cutting as i will be putting a heidts irs in within a year and that requires surgery as is lol.
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
whew! crisis averted man for a moment I felt like there was a guy out there with his finger on a button!
stupid shenanigans aside, man those tires are huge and its awesome. silly question though why not just do the wolfe minitub?
stupid shenanigans aside, man those tires are huge and its awesome. silly question though why not just do the wolfe minitub?
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#8
How much is that Wolfe Mini-Tub kit?
How much would a qualified shop charge to do it all?
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#9
TECH Apprentice
Those strength ribs are a biatch as is the strengthened area by where the LCA's mount to the chassis. I tried to make some cuts in them and bang them in but just wasn't getting them to go enough.
So I ended up having to cut that section out and got some 16 ga steel and cut the to fit then welded them in. Then just took an angle grinder and smoothed the welds down some.
Much better....
So I ended up having to cut that section out and got some 16 ga steel and cut the to fit then welded them in. Then just took an angle grinder and smoothed the welds down some.
Much better....
#10
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
Minitub kit is 220 assembled from Wolfe (170 if you put it together) shipping is kind of expensive. As far as the work I'm not sure the cost. I'd say it wouldn't be to bad if you took the interior apart and took it somewhere to get the cutting and welding done. 200-300 bucks maybe?
#12
Minitub kit is 220 assembled from Wolfe (170 if you put it together) shipping is kind of expensive. As far as the work I'm not sure the cost. I'd say it wouldn't be to bad if you took the interior apart and took it somewhere to get the cutting and welding done. 200-300 bucks maybe?
I think what JROC did is exactly what I need to do. As long as those ridges are gone, I'll be all set.
I'll try to get this done after this damn hurricane goes by Lauderdale.....
.
#13
Those strength ribs are a biatch as is the strengthened area by where the LCA's mount to the chassis. I tried to make some cuts in them and bang them in but just wasn't getting them to go enough.
So I ended up having to cut that section out and got some 16 ga steel and cut the to fit then welded them in. Then just took an angle grinder and smoothed the welds down some.
Much better....
So I ended up having to cut that section out and got some 16 ga steel and cut the to fit then welded them in. Then just took an angle grinder and smoothed the welds down some.
Much better....
I only want to use 1/2" spacers.......Do you have offset LCAs? My tire hits the regular LCA.....
.
#14
TECH Apprentice
I'm not using spacers but your wheels/tires are a little wider than my OEM C6Z setup. The LCA's I run are the Founders poly roto-ball control arms. The pnes with the hard poly ball surrounded by the soft poly rubber to allow them to rotate instead of binding. My tires are close to them but they clear them probably a good 3/8" or so.
#16
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This might help
Here you go. I found this and I think this would help. This guy had the Wolf mini tubbed done.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...r-blue-ta.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...r-blue-ta.html
#17
Here you go. I found this and I think this would help. This guy had the Wolf mini tubbed done.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...r-blue-ta.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...r-blue-ta.html
I'm having a hell of a time getting pictures of the parts that come in that kit.
Mainly I want to see the metal plate that Wolfe supplies that gets welded into the inner wheel well area that gets cut away.
.
#19
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