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BFH Mod on a 4th Gen. I just bought Torq Thrust 2 with 17x11 in the back with 45 mm offset. I have read on here where you need to use the BFH to get the wheel to clear the bump stop. I have beat the inner fender well with a 4 lb sledge hammer with no luck. I don't even budge it. I need to know what you guys have done to get the bump stop to move. Some ppl have removed the bump stop all together and I don't think that will work. Please help. |
Are you lowered? |
Noooooooo!!!! You dont hammer the fng bumpstop dude!!! You hammer the inner fender well. Jesus, people amaze me everyday. |
I'm reading it as he beat the inner fenderwell, but then it sounds like he beat the bumpstops too lol. I hope to God not lol |
Not lowered. Some of you guys assume too much or cannot read. I have beat the inner fender well all around where the bump stop is but not the bump stop. The fender well doesn't give. The part that rubs IS the bump stop and it needs to move. Any suggestions? |
We can read, it's just the way it was worded that kind of left it open ended a bit. I'm not sure why the metal isn't bending for you. I had no problem with it. You have to hit it pretty good, but it will bend no problem. Now are you saying the wheel hits the bump stop when you go to put it on? If so, are you lifting the car by the frame or axle? |
The wheel goes on fine and doesn't rub at first. However, if you lift the car by the frame, the wheel will drop down causing the bump stop to rub. If I can get it to move a half inch, I believe it would clear both tire and wheel. Running Nitto 555r 315 35 17. |
What you're describing is totally normal. It won't be a problem when driving around unless you drive like The Dukes of Hazzard lol. I'm running a 315/35/17 NT05R on 17x11 ZR1's, so I know what you mean here |
Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
(Post 19806850)
What you're describing is totally normal. It won't be a problem when driving around unless you drive like The Dukes of Hazzard lol. I'm running a 315/35/17 NT05R on 17x11 ZR1's, so I know what you mean here |
In my case I left the bump stops alone, but did the BFH mod along with rolling the fenders. I also did an adjustable panhard bar. I'm also lowered about an inch, and have never had a single issue over the last few years. |
I ended up not only removing the bump stops, but also had to shave back the bump stop mounts to avoid any wheel/tire contact. I didn't like the idea of bump stop cutting the tire if I'd drive on washboard like roads. I'm lowered using Strano springs and have not had any issues bottoming out. If I did, I'd likely mount a bump stop on the flat part of the rear end facing upwards. |
3 Attachment(s) I took my bump stops out 15 years ago....never had a problem and I've been airborne over railroad crossings many times....by accident....LOL......Nothing happens without them being in there. And lowered more than almost anyone out there....like 2+" inches front and about 2" rear....at least. Maybe a little more. I never measured. I did wrap steel wire around the bottom of my springs to hold them down on top of my spacers, so maybe thats why everything is fine. BUT.....everything is perfect after 15 years. I'm cutting the entire bump stop off and cutting all those raised ridges just above the bump stop mount completely off soon. 18 x 12.5 rims and 335 tires. . |
Originally Posted by LS6427
(Post 19809544)
I took my bump stops out 15 years ago....never had a problem and I've been airborne over railroad crossings many times....by accident....LOL......Nothing happens without them being in there. And lowered more than almost anyone out there....like 2+" inches front and about 2" rear....at least. Maybe a little more. I never measured. Maybe 1.5" front and 1" rear. 2" lowering will generally get your front tires tucked under the fender and rear tires will be either touching the fenders or be under them if they are narrow enough. |
3 Attachment(s) Ive posted this in the past, here is my car without springs and shocks installed just resting on the bumpstops AFTER I rolled my fenders, before they would easily be touching at this height. Now think what would happen if they weren't there... |
Awesome info guys. I appreciate the info. |
Originally Posted by JD_AMG
(Post 19809967)
If you have an aftermarket torque arm you may want to take a look at the chassis around where it connects to the rear axle, you may have a nice dent or small hole there. I some how have a very tiny contact patch there with my bumpstops still. Also we have discussed this but ill say it again, without my bumpstops my tires would 100% definitely come in contact with the outer fender if the suspension compressed enough. The point in which my axle contact my bumpstop and squishes it some my tire is only a couple centimeters from hitting my outer fenders. This is with 315/35/17s and a Fays2 watts link so the rear is centered at all axle heights. Your car doesn't look anywhere close to 2" lowered, especially in the back. Maybe 1.5" front and 1" rear. 2" lowering will generally get your front tires tucked under the fender and rear tires will be either touching the fenders or be under them if they are narrow enough. The front end didn't go down as far with the G2 Super Springs that the rear dropped......luckily I have QA1 adjustable shocks up front and I was able to crank them down to get the proper stance. With my 17" rims/tires they filled in the well a little more.....with these new 18" rims/tires there's a larger gap on top of the tire now...... I'll have to check to see if the torque arm has been hitting back there. I never hit or bottom out, so its probably ok. I'm putting a BMR heavy duty torque arm in soon with a crossmember mount bracket. . |
Originally Posted by JD_AMG
(Post 19809967)
If you have an aftermarket torque arm you may want to take a look at the chassis around where it connects to the rear axle, you may have a nice dent or small hole there. I some how have a very tiny contact patch there with my bumpstops still. Also we have discussed this but ill say it again, without my bumpstops my tires would 100% definitely come in contact with the outer fender if the suspension compressed enough. The point in which my axle contact my bumpstop and squishes it some my tire is only a couple centimeters from hitting my outer fenders. This is with 315/35/17s and a Fays2 watts link so the rear is centered at all axle heights. Your car doesn't look anywhere close to 2" lowered, especially in the back. Maybe 1.5" front and 1" rear. 2" lowering will generally get your front tires tucked under the fender and rear tires will be either touching the fenders or be under them if they are narrow enough. |
Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
(Post 19815761)
I'd say it does. I have BMR springs on mine and I put the Konis on the lower perch, pretty much a 2 inch drop, and it sits like his does in the front. His and mine are loooow. I'll measure the front/rear when I get a chance ground to fender lip.....I'm curious where it really sits compared to stock. But before the spacers went in...it was scraping on everything. That extra 1/2 inch made a big difference. . |
Originally Posted by LS6427
(Post 19815482)
LG Motorsports G2 Super Springs actually dropped my rear end too much....well over 2 inches in the rear. I had to add 1/2" spacers on both sides to raise it up a little bit, because whenever I had 2 passengers in the back seats (which was rare), the tires would rub the rear fenders on bumps. If no passengers are in the rear seats, no way it will rub, not even on big bumps. The front end didn't go down as far with the G2 Super Springs that the rear dropped......luckily I have QA1 adjustable shocks up front and I was able to crank them down to get the proper stance. Do you have ground to fender measurements? |
Originally Posted by JD_AMG
(Post 19817178)
I wouldn't say having QA1s is lucky...:judge: Do you have ground to fender measurements? For just a daily driven street car, the car handles amazingly good. If I was into road racing I'd get whatever was needed for that..... I never measured, but I will next time I'm home. . |
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