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CDT's from KEE install with pics.

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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 2QuikTA
I'm officially disappointed. I must have gotten a lemon set because so far the doors or the sails don't line up to the mounting holes. If I knew these were gonna be this much of a hassle, I would have gone down to Best Buy/ect and bought some speakers that actually fit. Something as simple as a 30 min/hr speaker replacement which I've done before has turned into lots of wasted time.

I'm in no way trying to bash Kee, my order/ect was nothing but smooth, and I'm sure they really are great speakers. I'm just disturbed I bought something advertised as "fit in stock locations" and so far the only things that haven't been a problem were the tweeters.
What exactly didn't fit? CDT doesn't make lemon sets so something is off.
Hundreds of people have installed these in their stock mounts with no problem including myself. I have several sets of stock mounts ( both Camaro and Firebird from a couple of different years) I test fit product in and have owned 4 F-bodies and put speakers in all of them and numerous other customers cars.
For the record Best Buys sells nothing compatible with your car and their advice will be to rip out the whole thing. They actually told a customer of mine the other day that they could not put in a radio in his car without taking out the Monsoon amp. They are idiots.
Which speakers did you get?? Maybe I can help you out. The premium package EU-61 door speakers are very tight in a stock Firebird mount but perfect in a Camaro mount. They do fit in a Firebird mount though if you do it right. They are the same speakers I used in my 98 T/A. The CL-61 drivers fit very easily.
If you are putting one screw in at a time and tightening it all the way down before moving to the next screw then the holes will not line up. The way to do it is to put one all 4 in loosely and then tighten a little at a time going around the speaker. I can post many pictures of these sitting in all kinds of stock mounts fitting just fine.
Shoot me an email at: keeaudio@bellsouth.net
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #42  
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I got the premium package.

Yeah, the doors were a little deeper than the stock mount liked but I got some screws to go in and those are fine. The sails on the other hand, the speaker fits flush in the speaker mounting hole but no matter how I rotate it around the screws just don't line up. And if I get even one to line up, I can't get a screw in because the speaker frame is so flush up against the sides the little screw bracket won't line up enough to get a screw in.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #43  
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That's the stock speed nuts in there. Sometimes you can get them to slide inward a little bit if you spread them open a little. For those who haven't done this, a Dorman #6 speed nut can make this a little easier. This is a readily found part for about $2.00-$3.00 at most part stores. They replace the stock speed nuts and pull the holes in a little helping to make things a bit easier. Just tape them in place when installing and they will stay put pretty well.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #44  
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KEE- Whats the price on this setup? Whats the major difference in the ultra premium setup??

OP- Are you powering those bad boys with the stock amp?
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #45  
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Current pricing on them is $399.99...my cost on them went up so I had to pass it on. This price does include shipping in the US.
The Ultra Premium has an actual separate 4" component set (which are more expensive) for the rear hatch and I am now upgrading it again to include the HD-6MSUB for the sails that have cast frame, push in terminals, and more power handling. It still uses the EU-61CV door speakers because they are the largest speakers you can fit in the stock frames although I did find a way to fit the MSUB in the doors for the Firebird (they fit in Camaro already) so I now have a new CDT MSUB component set that has a 1" tweeter and the CL and HD MSUB available with crossovers. This would be a cool option for vert cars that lack bass or anyone looking for more bass from the doors on aftermarket power.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #46  
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Thumbs up Kee Audio

Just installed the premium package this weekend - great speakers/great price!

Install was easy, although there was some minor drilling required in the hatch speaker area, and minor mod to fit the tweeters in the hatch.
Needed different speed clips on the mids - the factory ones are too long for the slightly larger mid woofers.
http://2002sss3726.shutterfly.com/pictures/10#11

My factory Monsoon never sounded this crisp & clean!
Much improved highs, with improved overall sound.
The bass response is better, hits harder than the factory setup - just what I wanted!
It is not thunderous bass, but that's not possible w/o a sub.
I do not want the $$/effort of adding a sub/amp, plus I love my 12 disc!

I am extremely happy!

MUCH THANKS to this site for all of the install threads, and particularly the Monsoon FAQ sticky - this saved me a lot of effort!

Last edited by 02SS3726; May 22, 2011 at 05:12 PM.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #47  
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I bought a bunch of stuff from Ian a while back. I'm actually on the way out to start taking the interior out of the car. I picked up a modified premium package. I don't know if what's Ian talking about in his last post or if he picked up some new stuff.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #48  
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I am actually about to get some new stuff next week from CDT that has enhanced midbass performance from a new center cap design that CDT came up with. I will be testing these out and comparing them to the current CL-6. CL-6M and a few others. I also will have 2 new dual voice coil CDT subs coming out sometime before July. Based on the CL-6M and HD-6M but with dual voice coils. The HD version will have spring loaded terminals like the HD-6M has but with 2 sets for even easier installation. These are also have a little larger frame.
They also have a new midbass enhanced carbon fiber 6x9" sub.
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #49  
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I've been kicking around replacing the speakers in my '96 Z-28. I have a Pioneer HU, and 4 Pioneer 3 way speakers, all of which I installed in the car when it was about 2 months old. Everything works reasonably well, however I'm reasonably convinced that afte 15 years, the speakers aren't performing like they once did.

I'm a bit confused however, as although I know that a 6.75" speaker can't reproduce deep bass, some of the manufacturer data sheets claim their speakers will reproduce down to 35hz, while many others claim no lower frequency than 55-60hz. Furthermore, it seems that some speakers are "approved" for fitment in the "B" pillars, yet won't fit in the doors. I assume this is due to "tweeter projection", because there is plenty of depth in the doors.

I looked at the Kee Audio website, but I'm a tad confused at the content of the "packages". I didn't see anything for the cars that weren't Monsoon equipped, in other words, the cars with just (4) 6.75" speakers. I'm also curious to the CDT speaker's ability to produce bass. I'm not looking to cut up the car for bigger speakers. Any information would be appreciated...
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #50  
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I can always put together a non-Monsoon package for you. You actually have more options with that because you are not limited to what the Monsoon amp dictates as far as output to the speakers. A 6.5" can make a moderate amount of bass output, it depends on what you listen to and how much bass you really want out of it. You will not get hardly any bass out of a system that is powered by just the radio though. An amp of some sort should be used for this. In the case of Monsoon owners they have an external amp that has a sub channel. In your case you may want to consider an aftermarket amp to power everything for optimal performance. A solid 3-way setup with good door speakers and a 10" stealth sub would be a good start for solid bass and good performance overall. The front speakers could be powered by the radio but a better way to do it economically would be to use either a 4-channel amp that would run the front speakers and the sub or a 5-channel amp to run front doors, rear sails and a sub out back all from 1 amp. I have solid 4-channel amps as low as $99.99 and solid 5-channel amps as low as $199.99.
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Old Aug 31, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #51  
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I have those nice set up.
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by KEE AUDIO
I can always put together a non-Monsoon package for you. You actually have more options with that because you are not limited to what the Monsoon amp dictates as far as output to the speakers. A 6.5" can make a moderate amount of bass output, it depends on what you listen to and how much bass you really want out of it. You will not get hardly any bass out of a system that is powered by just the radio though. An amp of some sort should be used for this. In the case of Monsoon owners they have an external amp that has a sub channel. In your case you may want to consider an aftermarket amp to power everything for optimal performance. A solid 3-way setup with good door speakers and a 10" stealth sub would be a good start for solid bass and good performance overall. The front speakers could be powered by the radio but a better way to do it economically would be to use either a 4-channel amp that would run the front speakers and the sub or a 5-channel amp to run front doors, rear sails and a sub out back all from 1 amp. I have solid 4-channel amps as low as $99.99 and solid 5-channel amps as low as $199.99.

Ian, I appreciate the feedback, but I probably should have been a little more clear in the description of what I'm after. I listen primarily to classic rock, and appreciate a good car stereo. However, my prime interest, at least in a car, is in horsepower, braking and handling. In other words, I'm looking for the best performance from an aftermarket HU, and aftermarket speakers, without the added hassle and/or weight of amps and subs....
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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #53  
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I have bought and installed the CDT Subs in the sail panels but had the same install issue others had where I could only get three screws in there and had issues with getting them lined up. I think I will try to get some different speed nuts and try that.

I do have them in there now though but have an annoying rattle and am wondering if anyone has any ideas how to deal with that?? I've seen some other places recommend using silicon sealeant ont eh speakers to get a tighter seal or is it just the lack of a 4th screw??

I'm kind of leaning toward the this is more trouble than it's worth at the moment.
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 01:03 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Ian, I appreciate the feedback, but I probably should have been a little more clear in the description of what I'm after. I listen primarily to classic rock, and appreciate a good car stereo. However, my prime interest, at least in a car, is in horsepower, braking and handling. In other words, I'm looking for the best performance from an aftermarket HU, and aftermarket speakers, without the added hassle and/or weight of amps and subs....
I got you!! I also listen to mostly rock and have played guitar for 27 years so I know what your going for now.
Best thing to do with a non Monsoon system is to use a nice set of components up front so that you have a good crossover to separate frequencies up there and then some rear fill like a good quality coaxial since you do not have subs in the back like the Monsoon has. Even a good aftermarket radio does not have enough power to push a sub properly and does not have the capability of pushing just bass to a sub through the speaker outputs without affecting the front speakers.
I have a nice set like that I can do for $199.99 in a front rear package I have that would do the trick. I also have some nice JVC radios that have 24 bit DAC and dual aux inputs for iPod and MP3 playback starting at $79.99. Great bang for the buck and with those speakers would be a strong performer for a non Monsoon, non amplified system. Shoot me an email and I can put it all together for you!
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by MaceZ28
I have bought and installed the CDT Subs in the sail panels but had the same install issue others had where I could only get three screws in there and had issues with getting them lined up. I think I will try to get some different speed nuts and try that.

I do have them in there now though but have an annoying rattle and am wondering if anyone has any ideas how to deal with that?? I've seen some other places recommend using silicon sealeant ont eh speakers to get a tighter seal or is it just the lack of a 4th screw??

I'm kind of leaning toward the this is more trouble than it's worth at the moment.
No silicone!! If you want to put something around them all you need is a little sound deadener and you can get a whole roll at Home Depot in the roofing section for $16.00. Just cut out a little and put it behind the sub and then put some like a ring around the sub like a mount sort of. Cut a hole out on the middle for the speaker to go in and your good.
As for the speed nuts, if you can't get the stock ones to pull in a little which sometimes requires you to spread them open a little more and then have some tape or something hold them in place. This will pull them in a bit. The other option that is a little easier and less frustrating is to use a #6 Dorman speed nut for about $4.00 at the parts store in the nuts and bolts area. These are shorter then the stock speed nuts but still fit in the stock speed nut holes. They work as well.
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #56  
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Ok, I went and picked up some different sized speed nuts at Napa and some #8 screws to go with them and was able to get them mounted solidly. Now they sound much better.
I'd recommend the new speednut route to anyone having issues with mounting the sail panel speakers and it made things a whole lot easier and only cost a few bucks.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #57  
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If air can get past the frame of the speaker it will lose bass response and sound like it isn't working...essentially it isn't if air car get around them like that.
Glad you went the speed nut route. The CDT HD-6M and new HD-6DVC line up perfectly...no new hardware at all. Plus they have spring loaded terminals so no solder either. The CDT HD-6M is already available, the new DVC version will be out at the end of the month.
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