amp(s) help
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amp(s) help I have a 4 channel amp powering my speakers at 75 watts rms. I was looking at subs and thinking of installing two Kicker CompVR 07CVR122 subs and a 800watt mono amp. I'm pretty sure my car has the stock alternator and was wondering if powering two amps would be too much for it to handle. If it isn't, would i just hook the second amp up as if the other isnt there, or would i need to run them through the same fuse or something? i just don't want to buy all this stuff then kill my alternator and have to drop another $500+. thanks
If you're not running UD crank pulley just do the "Big 3" to maximize your stock alternators output, and Imo, run another power cable for the sub amplifier.
Do the above think you'll be fine; just don't skimp on the cable size!
Do the above think you'll be fine; just don't skimp on the cable size!
I run 3 amps, 600 watt jackhammer, 450 watt soundstream and 250 watt rockford. Those are all continious ratings not peak. I ran them off a 2ga feed to the spare tire well. The amps get 3 seperate 4ga feeds and grounds. I also ran a seperate 2ga ground off the battery in the stock location to ground.
I have an SLP underdrive balancer. I added a Yellow top optima battery. I have had no issues. I have finally finished the 2 other legs of the big 3. I did notice a slightly higher voltage during high charging demands.
I purchased a brand new 170 amp alternator 6 months ago as I thought I would need it but never did. I will put it on during my motor swap soon.
P.S. I can run my stereo for like 20 minutes with the car not running with no problems. The battery is awesome.
P.S.S. I think you can run 2) 2ohm speakers mono wired in series(AMP+ to SPKR+ to -,SPKR+ to - to AMP-) for 4ohm load.
Ed
I have an SLP underdrive balancer. I added a Yellow top optima battery. I have had no issues. I have finally finished the 2 other legs of the big 3. I did notice a slightly higher voltage during high charging demands.
I purchased a brand new 170 amp alternator 6 months ago as I thought I would need it but never did. I will put it on during my motor swap soon.
P.S. I can run my stereo for like 20 minutes with the car not running with no problems. The battery is awesome.
P.S.S. I think you can run 2) 2ohm speakers mono wired in series(AMP+ to SPKR+ to -,SPKR+ to - to AMP-) for 4ohm load.
Ed
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Two 4-ohm subs can be wired in parallel to produce a 2-ohm load or in series to produce an 8-ohm load. Those are the only possibilities unless you run them on separate channels in which case they produce their rated 4-ohm load on each channel.
FYI, two 2-ohm subs can be wired in parallel to produce a 1-ohm load or in series to produce a 4-ohm load.
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I run 3 amps, 600 watt jackhammer, 450 watt soundstream and 250 watt rockford. Those are all continious ratings not peak. I ran them off a 2ga feed to the spare tire well. The amps get 3 seperate 4ga feeds and grounds. I also ran a seperate 2ga ground off the battery in the stock location to ground.
I have an SLP underdrive balancer. I added a Yellow top optima battery. I have had no issues. I have finally finished the 2 other legs of the big 3. I did notice a slightly higher voltage during high charging demands.
I purchased a brand new 170 amp alternator 6 months ago as I thought I would need it but never did. I will put it on during my motor swap soon.
P.S. I can run my stereo for like 20 minutes with the car not running with no problems. The battery is awesome.
P.S.S. I think you can run 2) 2ohm speakers mono wired in series(AMP+ to SPKR+ to -,SPKR+ to - to AMP-) for 4ohm load.
Ed
I have an SLP underdrive balancer. I added a Yellow top optima battery. I have had no issues. I have finally finished the 2 other legs of the big 3. I did notice a slightly higher voltage during high charging demands.
I purchased a brand new 170 amp alternator 6 months ago as I thought I would need it but never did. I will put it on during my motor swap soon.
P.S. I can run my stereo for like 20 minutes with the car not running with no problems. The battery is awesome.
P.S.S. I think you can run 2) 2ohm speakers mono wired in series(AMP+ to SPKR+ to -,SPKR+ to - to AMP-) for 4ohm load.
Ed
3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps.
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ok this isnt on the topic of amps but i figured i ask since i already have a thread. i was going through the process of redoing my wires for my speakers and i have a 4 channel amp. for the front speakers i had the wires stuck in the holes of the harness for the speakers but sometimes theyd fall out and it got annoying having to stick them back in and tape it back up, plus i wanted something more stable and permanent. So i decidd to cut the wires and solder them. well i did that and now the front speakers won't work for some reason. anyone know why?
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ok so i figured out the amp bypass problem. felt like a dumbass on that one haha. so just to clarify, i shouldnt have a problem with my alternator, right?
i have two friends whose alternators went out when they had subs installed but they drive a cougar and the other an accord so im guessing itsbecause they have smaller alternators. my car is at the 125k mile mark btw and will do the big three before adding the subs
i have two friends whose alternators went out when they had subs installed but they drive a cougar and the other an accord so im guessing itsbecause they have smaller alternators. my car is at the 125k mile mark btw and will do the big three before adding the subs
Last edited by r3adi7; Dec 6, 2009 at 11:42 PM.
Confused So, White bird has seen my set up, the amps are what they are and the test rating sheets that came with them say what they say.
I didn't think I was inferring that every stereo configuration possible didn't need more electrical system capacity (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) just that my situation did not. I also didn't think the configuration the poster listed would either. Does his choice of equipment look as demanding as (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) if you think it does than your recommendations for upgrades would be appropriate.
P.S. My system will go high enough that it causes actual pain and never gets distorted and sounds very clear and crisp. The sub is capable of being louder than I want. So I happy with it!
P.S.S. Now if anyone has any tips for getting the factory sail panel grills to stop vibrating at high levels I would appreciate them. I have considered:
1) Black silicone around the edge (mess and probably will look like ***. I can't put that **** around a tub never mind my speaker grill).
2) Plastic Dip around the edge. (again mess and not sure how it wound hold up.
3) Some kind of edging I could slip over, not sure where to get it.
Ed
??? I was just stating actual real world results. I have those 3 amps wired as stated, and they are rated as stated. What actual draw in amps during use do they pull, not sure. But I do listen to my music at ridiculously loud levels. Partly because I'm already half deaf and partly because I'm a half wit.
So, White bird has seen my set up, the amps are what they are and the test rating sheets that came with them say what they say.
I didn't think I was inferring that every stereo configuration possible didn't need more electrical system capacity (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) just that my situation did not. I also didn't think the configuration the poster listed would either. Does his choice of equipment look as demanding as (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) if you think it does than your recommendations for upgrades would be appropriate.
P.S. My system will go high enough that it causes actual pain and never gets distorted and sounds very clear and crisp. The sub is capable of being louder than I want. So I happy with it!
P.S.S. Now if anyone has any tips for getting the factory sail panel grills to stop vibrating at high levels I would appreciate them. I have considered:
1) Black silicone around the edge (mess and probably will look like ***. I can't put that **** around a tub never mind my speaker grill).
2) Plastic Dip around the edge. (again mess and not sure how it wound hold up.
3) Some kind of edging I could slip over, not sure where to get it.
Ed
So, White bird has seen my set up, the amps are what they are and the test rating sheets that came with them say what they say.
I didn't think I was inferring that every stereo configuration possible didn't need more electrical system capacity (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) just that my situation did not. I also didn't think the configuration the poster listed would either. Does his choice of equipment look as demanding as (3500 watt MMATS, and 2ea. 350 watt Zapco amps) if you think it does than your recommendations for upgrades would be appropriate.
P.S. My system will go high enough that it causes actual pain and never gets distorted and sounds very clear and crisp. The sub is capable of being louder than I want. So I happy with it!
P.S.S. Now if anyone has any tips for getting the factory sail panel grills to stop vibrating at high levels I would appreciate them. I have considered:
1) Black silicone around the edge (mess and probably will look like ***. I can't put that **** around a tub never mind my speaker grill).
2) Plastic Dip around the edge. (again mess and not sure how it wound hold up.
3) Some kind of edging I could slip over, not sure where to get it.
Ed
I have noticed some people are quick to say you need all these electrical upgrades for most situations I'm willing to bet just wiring what you have correctly with good connections and the right size wire and you would be good to go.
Ed
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What do you guys think about the kicker comp vr subs? I've been hearing some mixed reviews. Good sound quality is a little bit more important to me tham how hard it hits even though its still important. Is sacrificing a bit of wattage worth it to get higher quality subs like rockfords or something?
What do you guys think about the kicker comp vr subs? I've been hearing some mixed reviews. Good sound quality is a little bit more important to me tham how hard it hits even though its still important. Is sacrificing a bit of wattage worth it to get higher quality subs like rockfords or something?
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not too much. I'm buying from amazon and can get that whole setup with box for like $450 but am willing to spend a bit more. my friend has two type-S 12"s powered by a 500 watt amp (250 per sub) and i like how they sound but I wanted to outdo him a bit because he thinks he has the baddest set up around and cant be topped. plus i want a system i'll be happy with and will last
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ok, so i've heard some good things about JL Audio so im thinking of going with two JL Audio 12W1v2 (300watts RMS per sub at 4 ohm), Infinity Reference 1600a amp, and the ttop box. The reference does 600watts rms at 2 ohms so im going to wire the subs at 2 ohms to get the full power out of the amp.
