Replacing stock stereo question
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
Replacing stock stereo question So after a few years of blasting my music over dumps my speakers finally pooped out on me... jsut as i run the exhaust out the back and finally quiet the car down inside :/
anyways i would like to replace the door and sail panel (the speakers in the back seat) and add in a sub or 2. I have the monsoon system with the speakers in the trunk, but they are still working just fine.
I know this is the normal question, but id like the best sound for cheapest, as i kinda just blew all my money on heads and a 102mm fast lol. Im thinking either a 12w7 or a 12" L7.
can anyone point me in the right direction as too good replacement speakers that dont require too much to the car to get to work? I have some stereo experience and would like to be able to do it all myself.
Also can this be done with keeping the stock HU?
anyways i would like to replace the door and sail panel (the speakers in the back seat) and add in a sub or 2. I have the monsoon system with the speakers in the trunk, but they are still working just fine.
I know this is the normal question, but id like the best sound for cheapest, as i kinda just blew all my money on heads and a 102mm fast lol. Im thinking either a 12w7 or a 12" L7.
can anyone point me in the right direction as too good replacement speakers that dont require too much to the car to get to work? I have some stereo experience and would like to be able to do it all myself.
Also can this be done with keeping the stock HU?
still really kind of unclear what you want to do, but a couple of notes:
1. the stock HU is not very good and you are better off for the whole system to replace it
2. a good set of components in the door and a good sub in the back will cover any sound the sail panels and hatch speakers will create otherwise (in other words a 3-piece system in our cars work just fine).
3. a 12w7 is a very expensive speaker and not worth it if you don't plan to push 500w or more to it
4. an aftermarket HU will give you about 20w to your speakers directly (without an amp) or about 30w through the monsoon, and if you are pushing a 12w7, even at 500w, it's kind of a mismatch between bass coming from the sub and your mids/highs being powered much lower. that's not a great balance.
5. there are a few 3-channel or even 5-channel amps that will push 75w or so to the speakers and 500+ watts to the sub simultaneously.
6. if you are looking to just upgrade the door speakers and the sail panels with better midwoofers, keeaudio has several packages you can buy that supposedly sound pretty good. these won't be helpful if you don't have the monsoon system.
7. you should really change out your HU regardless of what you do, unless you are just buying stock replacements.
1. the stock HU is not very good and you are better off for the whole system to replace it
2. a good set of components in the door and a good sub in the back will cover any sound the sail panels and hatch speakers will create otherwise (in other words a 3-piece system in our cars work just fine).
3. a 12w7 is a very expensive speaker and not worth it if you don't plan to push 500w or more to it
4. an aftermarket HU will give you about 20w to your speakers directly (without an amp) or about 30w through the monsoon, and if you are pushing a 12w7, even at 500w, it's kind of a mismatch between bass coming from the sub and your mids/highs being powered much lower. that's not a great balance.
5. there are a few 3-channel or even 5-channel amps that will push 75w or so to the speakers and 500+ watts to the sub simultaneously.
6. if you are looking to just upgrade the door speakers and the sail panels with better midwoofers, keeaudio has several packages you can buy that supposedly sound pretty good. these won't be helpful if you don't have the monsoon system.
7. you should really change out your HU regardless of what you do, unless you are just buying stock replacements.
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My brother has a 12w7 with a HD750/1 JL amp that he would sell me for $150, i was planning on getting new door and sail panels with their own amp just to get through the bass from the W7 and get rid of the crackeling.
I wasnt aware that the stock monsoon was such a bad piece, if it was one of those things where stock is like 5/10 and a starter serier alpine or something was a 6/10 i would leave it, but if its that bad i will upgrade it.
Basically i need help building a system around a 12w7 the more i think about it... my brother had 3 in his TB and i LOOOOOOOVE they way they hit and how hard/clean they are.
Im just a stereo noob as far as picking things out and need some guidance
I wasnt aware that the stock monsoon was such a bad piece, if it was one of those things where stock is like 5/10 and a starter serier alpine or something was a 6/10 i would leave it, but if its that bad i will upgrade it.
Basically i need help building a system around a 12w7 the more i think about it... my brother had 3 in his TB and i LOOOOOOOVE they way they hit and how hard/clean they are.
Im just a stereo noob as far as picking things out and need some guidance
if you are going to have a 12w7 @ 750w, you are best off just getting a HU and some component speakers for the doors only. there is no point in speakers in the sail panels. most people have a hard time grasping that is true and many don't buy it and instead get 4 speakers at the same cost of a good pair of 2 speakers and end up with an inferior sound. but 2 speakers that are good and powered well are all you need if you have a good sub hitting all of your low notes.
then get a 2-channel amp to power those speakers around 75w each and that's all you need. keeaudio sells some good cdt components, and also another decently priced option are alpine type x components, which sound good. of course there are many other options, but those are a few i know work well with our application. i had 2 CDTs and 2 MTX 10s in my car for years and it sounded great. i had 1200w for the subs and 90w for the CDTs and the power displacement was a little unbalanced due to the large amount of power for the subs. the result was that i had to lower the gain on the amp for the subs to make the overall sound equal. 75w x 2 + 750w x 1 will be great.
also the benefit of good component speakers and a good sub is being able to set the filters at 80hz for the subs and components. the CDTs i had were actually incapable of always playing with an 80hz filter, sometimes popping on the low notes. i had to raise it to around 100hz. in retrospect i would have paid a little more for a better pair of components that could handle those lower notes. if you can have your subs play only notes lower than 80hz and the components playing everything above 80hz, you will be astonished at just how clear everything sounds with just 3 speakers.
then get a 2-channel amp to power those speakers around 75w each and that's all you need. keeaudio sells some good cdt components, and also another decently priced option are alpine type x components, which sound good. of course there are many other options, but those are a few i know work well with our application. i had 2 CDTs and 2 MTX 10s in my car for years and it sounded great. i had 1200w for the subs and 90w for the CDTs and the power displacement was a little unbalanced due to the large amount of power for the subs. the result was that i had to lower the gain on the amp for the subs to make the overall sound equal. 75w x 2 + 750w x 1 will be great.
also the benefit of good component speakers and a good sub is being able to set the filters at 80hz for the subs and components. the CDTs i had were actually incapable of always playing with an 80hz filter, sometimes popping on the low notes. i had to raise it to around 100hz. in retrospect i would have paid a little more for a better pair of components that could handle those lower notes. if you can have your subs play only notes lower than 80hz and the components playing everything above 80hz, you will be astonished at just how clear everything sounds with just 3 speakers.
Last edited by tuffluck; May 20, 2010 at 11:21 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Sterling Heights, MI
if you are going to have a 12w7 @ 750w, you are best off just getting a HU and some component speakers for the doors only. there is no point in speakers in the sail panels. most people have a hard time grasping that is true and many don't buy it and instead get 4 speakers at the same cost of a good pair of 2 speakers and end up with an inferior sound. but 2 speakers that are good and powered well are all you need if you have a good sub hitting all of your low notes.
then get a 2-channel amp to power those speakers around 75w each and that's all you need. keeaudio sells some good cdt components, and also another decently priced option are alpine type x components, which sound good. of course there are many other options, but those are a few i know work well with our application. i had 2 CDTs and 2 MTX 10s in my car for years and it sounded great. i had 1200w for the subs and 90w for the CDTs and the power displacement was a little unbalanced due to the large amount of power for the subs. the result was that i had to lower the gain on the amp for the subs to make the overall sound equal. 75w x 2 + 750w x 1 will be great.
also the benefit of good component speakers and a good sub is being able to set the filters at 80hz for the subs and components. the CDTs i had were actually incapable of always playing with an 80hz filter, sometimes popping on the low notes. i had to raise it to around 100hz. in retrospect i would have paid a little more for a better pair of components that could handle those lower notes. if you can have your subs play only notes lower than 80hz and the components playing everything above 80hz, you will be astonished at just how clear everything sounds with just 3 speakers.
then get a 2-channel amp to power those speakers around 75w each and that's all you need. keeaudio sells some good cdt components, and also another decently priced option are alpine type x components, which sound good. of course there are many other options, but those are a few i know work well with our application. i had 2 CDTs and 2 MTX 10s in my car for years and it sounded great. i had 1200w for the subs and 90w for the CDTs and the power displacement was a little unbalanced due to the large amount of power for the subs. the result was that i had to lower the gain on the amp for the subs to make the overall sound equal. 75w x 2 + 750w x 1 will be great.
also the benefit of good component speakers and a good sub is being able to set the filters at 80hz for the subs and components. the CDTs i had were actually incapable of always playing with an 80hz filter, sometimes popping on the low notes. i had to raise it to around 100hz. in retrospect i would have paid a little more for a better pair of components that could handle those lower notes. if you can have your subs play only notes lower than 80hz and the components playing everything above 80hz, you will be astonished at just how clear everything sounds with just 3 speakers.
awesome thank you for the advice. I know absolutely 0 when it comes to stereo other than the major brands lol. Ill look into it and post up pictures when i start the install
