Speaker Setup
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 69
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From: Edmond,Ok
Speaker Setup Just a couple questions about my speaker setup that I would like to put in my 99 ws6. Im really wanting to go with the 2-way alpine type r 6.5 componet speakers in the front and the 2-way 6x9 type r speakers im the rear all powered by a 75w x 4 rms amp at 4 ohms. Would this be a good set up for just the speakers or should I put in the polk dxi690 3-ways in the back?
All in all, im just looking to get a "loud" and clear speaker set up.
Any advice would be great.
All in all, im just looking to get a "loud" and clear speaker set up.
Any advice would be great.
Personally I'm a fan of the Pioneer 3 or 4-way 6x9's for the back thats what I will be doing when I can afford to or even I once had a set of Audiobahn 6x9's in 6x9 boxes in the back of my old tahoe and they sounded GREAT, I don't really recommend Audiobahn except for that one instance, either way definitely go for more then 2-way speakers where possible.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Would you like an 8-track player to go with those 6x9s? That's the level of technology they represent. Besides, there are no 6x9 openings in the car so you'd have to modify to make them fit. Why not get some good 6.5/6.75 speakers that fit in the factory locations? Round speakers will always sound better than oval ones.
Oh, and in general (there are some exceptions), three and four way speakers are gimmicks like multi-blade razors. A good coaxial speaker or especially a set of components will outperform multi-element speakers in almost every case. That's because of the lousy crossovers they have built-in.
Oh, and in general (there are some exceptions), three and four way speakers are gimmicks like multi-blade razors. A good coaxial speaker or especially a set of components will outperform multi-element speakers in almost every case. That's because of the lousy crossovers they have built-in.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 69
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From: Edmond,Ok
Alright, so are the alpine type r 6.5s crap or should I go with the 6.5 x's? My factory "subs" went out a long time ago, so should i just buy 6.5 coaxial type r/x and pair them with a 75w x 4 rms amp and then go ahead and buy a sub/subs to go with them and just leave the factory 4in speakers in the rear powered by the monsoon amp? Or are the type r's just a crappy speaker in general.. What type of speaker and amp would you recommend I put in it?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
It depends on what you want to accomplish and how big a budget you have. You can achieve pretty decent results by just upgrading the head unit and speakers with a stock Monsoon system for minimal cost. You can then add a separate amp and sub if you want more bass. Kee Audio has speaker packages that are designed to use the stock mounting and wiring with a big increase in sound quality.
At the other end of the spectrum, you can get impressive results by replacing everything and installing a couple of amps along with larger sub(s) and better front components. Then some sound deadening material and electrical upgrades can put you into competition-level audio.
In either case, I would not go with what you originally planned unless you also add a separate sub because you would be giving up significant bass response with all full-range speakers. Besides, you shouldn't have large full-range speakers behind you. Rear speakers should be for bass or fill only - that's why the OEM setup has only small 4" speakers at the back (and subs in the sail panels).
At the other end of the spectrum, you can get impressive results by replacing everything and installing a couple of amps along with larger sub(s) and better front components. Then some sound deadening material and electrical upgrades can put you into competition-level audio.
In either case, I would not go with what you originally planned unless you also add a separate sub because you would be giving up significant bass response with all full-range speakers. Besides, you shouldn't have large full-range speakers behind you. Rear speakers should be for bass or fill only - that's why the OEM setup has only small 4" speakers at the back (and subs in the sail panels).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Edmond,Ok
Ok, I really want to go with the "competition level" set up. I currently have a alpine cde-122 head-unit, its ok, but it doesnt have the 3 rca pre-amp out puts that I will need to add the amps. My current speaker system is very trash and I really just need to re-wire the whole "system" with a thicker gauage wire because the guy I bought the car from really messed it up. Im planning on taking the monsoon amp out and just going with a seperate amp. So what your saying is, I should run a 6.5 in componets in the door pannels and 6.5 coaxiles In mid section of the car all powered by a 75w x 4 rms amp. That way all my sound is upfront and ill have the 6x9s just for the back-up speakers in the trunk area, and then add an amp powering a sub for that "extra bass boost" but its all about matching the sub and the speakers that way it all sounds "together". Then add the sound deadener for better sound quality?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, that's not at all what I'm saying. First of all, there are no 6x9 speakers anywhere in the car so why would you want to modify the car to install them? Especially all the way at the back?
The sail panels (beside the rear seats) are already behind you so you shouldn't be putting full-range (coaxial) speakers there. You want your primary audio to come from the front. Some will try to convince you that all the sound (except bass) should come from the front to create a front sound stage like being at a concert. Personally I think that's just audio snobbery because most of us like that "surround sound" experience. But that's what small rear fill speakers are for - not big speakers matching the output of the front.
If you're not going to put subs or midbass speakers in the sail panels then just leave them unused.
If the Monsoon amp and wiring are still intact then I recommend using your existing Alpine head unit, getting some decent components (or even coaxials) for the doors and either putting subs/midbass speakers in the sail panels or adding an amp for a sub in a stealth box. The Monsoon amp will provide about the same power as the 75x4 amp you were discussing.
The sail panels (beside the rear seats) are already behind you so you shouldn't be putting full-range (coaxial) speakers there. You want your primary audio to come from the front. Some will try to convince you that all the sound (except bass) should come from the front to create a front sound stage like being at a concert. Personally I think that's just audio snobbery because most of us like that "surround sound" experience. But that's what small rear fill speakers are for - not big speakers matching the output of the front.
If you're not going to put subs or midbass speakers in the sail panels then just leave them unused.
If the Monsoon amp and wiring are still intact then I recommend using your existing Alpine head unit, getting some decent components (or even coaxials) for the doors and either putting subs/midbass speakers in the sail panels or adding an amp for a sub in a stealth box. The Monsoon amp will provide about the same power as the 75x4 amp you were discussing.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Edmond,Ok
Ok. So leave the rear speakers completely alone..then buy my componets for the front and then buy a subwoofer and amp. Just one question about that because doesnt the front speakers run off of 2 ohms from the amp? Because the alpines are a 4 ohm speaker so it would feel like it is producing less volume/ db's
Also I thought the monsoon amp was only capable of producing 25w rms to each channel is that true
Also I thought the monsoon amp was only capable of producing 25w rms to each channel is that true
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Apr 6, 2012 at 08:28 PM. Reason: merge consecutive posts
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, the door mids are 2-ohm from the factory (the tweeters are 4-ohm). Using a 4-ohm speaker would cut power in half if everything else is equal. Half the power results in a 3dB drop in volume - about one click of the volume ****. But all else isn't equal... almost any decent aftermarket speaker is going to be at least 3dB for efficient (sensitive) than the stock speakers so the change in impedance results in no loss of volume.
The Monsoon amp produces about 240 watts RMS into eight channels. That's about 30 watts per channel. But you're sending two channels to each door and two channels to each dual voice coil sub in the sail panels. That amounts to 60 watts RMS to each speaker location. The difference between that and your 75 watt 4-channel amp is less than 1dB which is essentially unnoticeable. Certainly not worth paying extra for.
The Monsoon amp produces about 240 watts RMS into eight channels. That's about 30 watts per channel. But you're sending two channels to each door and two channels to each dual voice coil sub in the sail panels. That amounts to 60 watts RMS to each speaker location. The difference between that and your 75 watt 4-channel amp is less than 1dB which is essentially unnoticeable. Certainly not worth paying extra for.
