battery relocation
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
Will do, I've already got the tray mounted and the battery moved, I'm working on relocating my passenger coil pack at the moment once that's done and I make my new plug wires I'll finish the rest of the wiring. Pretty simple thus far.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
HA! optispark....thank you no
or if I didnt have 3" tall valve covers they could have stayed in the factory location.....
my ultimate plan is once i get everything where its going is to make some covers for that area so when you open the engine bay all you see is motor and intake the rest is just continuous fender well up to the rad support. Thats for another day though
or if I didnt have 3" tall valve covers they could have stayed in the factory location.....
my ultimate plan is once i get everything where its going is to make some covers for that area so when you open the engine bay all you see is motor and intake the rest is just continuous fender well up to the rad support. Thats for another day though
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
I know I was kidding to
the ls swap is pretty easy, it was all the wiring that was a pain for me. Nothing wanted to communicate like it should have (was a v6 car) had lots of vats issues since i converted to a manual as well.
I got all the coil pack signal wires soldered last night, need to pick up some wire look so I can tuck them down by the frame rail and then make the plug wires.
Im trying to decide how to go about the grounding in the bay with the negative terminal as it seems that the jumper off the actual terminal already is attached to the chassis is there really a need to double ground one wire?
the ls swap is pretty easy, it was all the wiring that was a pain for me. Nothing wanted to communicate like it should have (was a v6 car) had lots of vats issues since i converted to a manual as well.
I got all the coil pack signal wires soldered last night, need to pick up some wire look so I can tuck them down by the frame rail and then make the plug wires.
Im trying to decide how to go about the grounding in the bay with the negative terminal as it seems that the jumper off the actual terminal already is attached to the chassis is there really a need to double ground one wire?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
ill post some pics of it when I do the write up, but its a remote terminal I bought from ebay. Essentially its a threaded post with a nut with a plastic shell that is used to mount it down. Put some wire eyes connectors on each wire and put each on the post and use the nut to tighten it all down. The one I got even came with the connectors you would need.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 392
From: cookeville, TN
Thanks, I got everything hooked up last night and cranked it over and realized I forgot to tighten up the grounds and the distribution terminal for the fronts and it still started so i figure I'm good. just need to clean everything up and put a little more load on the system and see what happens. The voltage drop on 0/1 gauge is pretty minimal for the length of wire used.
Got all my photos and I'll doing the write up tonight. I gotta say though now that its pretty much done.... IT WAS SUPER EASY
Got all my photos and I'll doing the write up tonight. I gotta say though now that its pretty much done.... IT WAS SUPER EASY