Radio won't turn on...
 

Had a friend helping me install bottle warmer. For some reason he was using a test light on my amplifier wires. Anyway, heard a pop, noticed my amp light wasn't on. Now radio won't come on...no clock or anything.

All fuses are good.

So, what am I missing? Stock radio, MTX amp, Alpine sub...

Thanks

I know you said you checked the fuses, but did you check both fuses that power the radio in the fuse panel? Not sure yet how probing at the amp would affect this, but I'm curious if the cigarette lighter works. That's the fuse that also powers the radio memory, which means that there's one fuse for turning the radio on and one for supporting the memory part when the key is off. Both fuses need to be intact for the radio to work. Although rare, I have seen a bad fuse that appeared to be good, so don't bang your head trying to track down a problem without verifying the simple stuff.

If those check out good, I'd start by probing behind the radio with a METER. My guess is that your friend accidentally shorted the long metal part of the test light against something when probing, which is one of the reasons not to use one (notice how the metal part of a meter's test leads is shorter?). If power checks out good behind the radio and it's still not powering up, it looks like it's time to start shopping for a replacement - take said friend with you to help with the purchase price, but maybe not the installation ;)

Hope that helps!

What should I be looking for on the back of the radio with the meter?

Thanks

You say you checked all fuses?

Should be a fuse right off the battery.
Another fuse on the back of your aftermarket head unit.
Another fuse before the amp
Some amps also have fuses on the actual amp.

I would disconnect the bottle warmer because it was working before.

I bet the remote turnon wire does not have 12v with the ignition on at the amp. This is why the amp is not comming on. Once you fix your problem with the radio comming on, it will suplly the +12 for the remote turnon and everything should work after that.

Around 11-12.4Vdc on the Red IGN., and Yellow CONT. wires. The yellow should have 12vdc all the time and the Red only when you turn the Key on (or when the 10min system has power).

Guys, he said stock radio. Orange is constant, and yellow is ign (although there are two yellow wires in a stock installation - one is speaker). Voltages are correct though, although I'd be more concerned with the existence or lack of power than the actual number itself in this case (unless of course it's extremely low - under 10v). If the orange wire has constant voltage and the ign yellow wire goes on/off with the key, then the problem is in the radio. If one of these wires doesn't check out as mentioned, check the fuses with the meter. The blade fuses can be probed without removing them - touch the metal contacts at the 'back' of the fuse with it installed - make sure to check both sides of the fuse to make sure you're getting what you should be.

Man I looked right past the stock part.

So Daley is correct on the wire colors.

OK cigarette lighter works. "Friend" says he thinks he may have touched ground and remote wires...

Haven't got to meter yet. Was off work today and meter is at work. I will check it tomorrow...

Thanks.

I was afraid of that - as much as I hate to think like this, my guess is the remote got shorted to ground when it was powered up and shorted out the internals of the radio. Hopefully that's not it, but until you get a meter in there we won't know for sure. Keeping fingers crossed for ya.

Daley, your a big help. I appreciate it.

The system was definitely powered up because I remember the red light on the amp being on. then the pop and no light.

If its fried will I be able to use somebody's stock player or will I have to go aftermerket? No really wanting to drop the $200+ on a head unit right now...

All monsoon HU's will interchange. The Camaro ones are different aesthetically from the Firebird/TA ones, but they all play well together (from what I know). Glad I could help, and sorry to hear about it. After it was all said-and-done, did you eventually get the bottle-warmer hooked up? WAIT- you guys weren't trying to hook the warmer up to the amp wiring, WERE YOU ?!?!? I sure hope not!!!!

One problem.

I have a truck, not an F-Body. Will a stock radio work? I remembre something about the the Theftlock feature???

No wasn't going to wire through amp. That would fry the amp wouldn't it???

Thanks.

Theft Loc can be bypassed

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....23&postcount=8

Checked wires...

Switched wire doesn't have any power. Fuses are good. Bought a new head unit, because I decided I wanted to upgrade.

Still nothing and I am becoming frustrated... :bang:

help no tunes sucks...

It would appear that there are differences in the wiring for a Silverado from an F-body. The ignition power at the radio is on the dark green wire in the trucks rather than yellow as in the cars. There is also a 15A radio fuse in the underhood fuse box on the trucks - maybe you missed checking that one?