security light flashing... car won't start
 

yep...out of no where..came out and car wouldnt start....i tried my spare set maybe thinkin the chip got damamged but no luck...i even tried cleaned out the contacts in the cylinder with some crc...still nothing. anyone have any ideas thats been through the same before i have to tow it to the dealer??? thanx

Wait 15 minutes, make sure the key is dry, & try it again.

I've heard that if by chance ya have the key wet, like walking in the rain, or had it in yer mouth, *yuk!*, that it will trigger the 'Security" system.

In fact, I've had this happen to me in the rain once. Waited a few minutes & tried it again & it worked.

So, this post is about an hour later, ..., Does it work now?!?

HOLY CRAP!!!! Rick that just happend to my car 3 days ago!!!! My buddy had to wire in a resistor to bypass/engage the system in order to make the car start. If you pull the panel down underneath the steering wheel there is a connector with 2 wires coming off it in both directions. One is purple/white and one is white/black with 2 white wires coming out of the connector. You have to solder in a resistor that matches the Ohms of the chip on your key to purple/white and white black wires. You can use a volt meter to figure out the Ohms. He knows the rest of the details and the right way to do it.

His SC on here is chummmma

You have a voice mail.

tried it...and spare key also which is never used so it couldnt have been wet.
someone else suggested it as well...thanx though.

thanks man...me and the harris boys are gonna try to over ride it with ls1 edit..but if that doesnt work...think you and your friend can make a trip over to fix this crap for me???? ill be more than happy to pay him for his time and your gas...ill call ya later.

PASS-Key II security system info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/247786-p-s-s-key.html

just an idea
 

i just read a few posts on this thread. r u even sure its yr key? if yr car is manual get in hte drivers seat and put hte key in and make sure it is turned in hte on position. then put hte car into reverse and push in the clutch. have one or two of yr buddies push the car backwards. once u get rollin pop the clutch and itll start. then push the clutch back in real fast. it might take a few tries to get it. if yr car wont start then i dont think its yr key.

this happened to my bros car. hed turn the key and itd make this clunkn noise so we just poppd the clutch and it worked. then he drove down the street and came back. then turned the car off and it started wtih the key

If your battery is down, the security light will flash fast and it will not start with the key. Make sure this is not it.

thanx for all the help guys but i finally figured out the problem..with a little help from a tech at the dealer...i thought it was this all along but wasnt 100% sure and didnt just want to throw parts at it. the ignition switch went bad...the security system in the switch that reads the chip wasnt readin it hence triggering the security light and not allowing the thing to start....had the ignition switch replaced and 2 new keys made and im good to go...if any of you ever run into this problem like i did and nothing else seems to work wit the drying of the key and all that, something you might wanna consider.
thanx again.

While this is still active...I have a question with my security light.

Recently did a cam swap in my LS1 and since then the Security light has been solid. No problems starting or anything, just a damn annoying light on the dash at all times. Is there anyway to kill this? I asked my dealership and said they'd have to reset my PCM and it'd kill my tune I have on there. :( Any other options I"m not aware of?

If they say it could be fixed by resetting the PCM, perhaps the same thing could be individually changed using LS1Edit/HPTuners/etc? :)

yeah...with ls1 edit anyway there is a way to shut the security system off all together....however, it did not work in my case...car still wouldnt start...so i dunno if it'll work for you or not.

Guess I'll run it by Magnus @ HPTuners again. I must have not dug around enough..thanks.

Epic, did you by any chance mess under the steering column (not that I think its required for a cam swap :) )

I'm sure I'm too late and you may have already figured it out. This happened to me last nigh. AuG 23 2022
I tried 3verything and finally the solution was extremely simple. So to be clear my car battery died, I jumped it off and it ran fine, I parked and turned it off 30 min later,, when I tried to start it again to leave it did nothing. The security light was now on and it didn't crank or turn over at all. After trying literally every potential solution it turned out to be as simple as removing the radio fuse. Located in the fuse panel on the left side of the driver side dash. Its #17 which can be found using the user manual. Remove that and put your key in the ignition. Quickly turn key to start and back to off 3. Times rapidly. Within 5 seconds from start to finish. You should hear the doors lock and unlock if done correctly. You can then start your car. Hope this helps people in the future it saved my life

Those are the first few steps for matching (programming) remote key fobs. You may want to check if your fobs still work since that incomplete process may have removed them from your car's security system. It may not have, but when you do continue the programming process that you started, only the fobs you match at that time will work - all other former fobs will be deleted. Not a big deal but you'd have to go through the rest of that programming sequence to get your fobs reprogrammed.

I only had 1 fob so it worked out great for me. I dont know any other steps but I know it took me 2 days to find that info in some obscure post from like 10yrs ago after my car sat stuck in a parking lot in a bad part of town and was broken into and cost me a day of pay when I had to miss work. Had the information been easier to obtain it would have taken a few seconds and saved me a lot of trouble so I figured I should do my part to put the info out there so it may help someone in the future

That's really interesting and useful information. Although I can't imagine why it would work, it's good to know and it's something to try if the security system is preventing the car from starting. This is the first time I've ever heard of that solution but I'll be sure to mention it if someone else has a similar problem.

Unfortunately, it would not have helped the original poster because he had a physical problem with his ignition cylinder rather than a programming problem. The security light in the instrument panel has two different states when it comes to VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) - it can be on solid or flashing.

A solid security light means that VATS sees a key resistor but it's not the correct resistance for the car. That can be caused by using the wrong key, dirt and grime on the key pellet and/or the contacts in the ignition cylinder, a worn key, and a few other situations.

A flashing security light means that VATS can't see a key resistor at all (open circuit). That could be from using a key that doesn't have a resistor or, as in the OP's case, a break in the circuit someplace (in this case the ignition cylinder). If the problem is in the ignition cylinder, it can be replaced, or a standard VATS bypass will eliminate the problem because it takes the ignition cylinder out of the circuit.