Speakers or HU first?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
Oh I understand now, I didn't see that before. So what would happen if you didn't cut that hole, how would that affect the speaker perforamance?
EDIT: I will update this post ASAP
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 21, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
Originally Posted by fredmr39
So in summary....Elemental Designs eu700s are basically the only replacement best suited for you, they just need a spacer. Just wanted to show you your other options (that I know of) and why they aren't the best.
Alpine has what looks to be a very nice kit. Including crossover.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by WhiteStripes
IDK.....considering the price and RMS values alone and the quality I know from ED....
I know Alpine doesn't have the BEST components typically...
Keep in mind also that those Aplines have a 4 ohm impedance...one voice coil...
I know. It's just another option though. Lol I got all excited that I ordered all this Alpine stuff, then realized that they aren't the comapny they once were. Oh well, you win some you lose some. But as far as price goes, who the hell pays retail for anything these days?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by WhiteStripes
I know. It's just another option though. Lol I got all excited that I ordered all this Alpine stuff, then realized that they aren't the comapny they once were. Oh well, you win some you lose some. But as far as price goes, who the hell pays retail for anything these days?
Retail price?.....what's that?
If you or anyone missed the edit in the precious post...it appears those are SVC 4-ohm...
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 21, 2007 at 12:16 AM.
Hey guys, I just pulled my spare out and noticed something interesting - what do you all make of this:
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
Originally Posted by fredmr39
thanks for that link!
IDK.....considering the price and RMS values alone and the quality I know from ED....
I know Alpine doesn't have the BEST components typically...
Keep in mind also that those Aplines have a 4 ohm impedance...one voice coil...
IDK.....considering the price and RMS values alone and the quality I know from ED....
I know Alpine doesn't have the BEST components typically...
Keep in mind also that those Aplines have a 4 ohm impedance...one voice coil...
eD makes nice stuff, but in car audio, there is never only one solution.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Element
Mmm...I can think of a few brands offhand that might not be quite as well known as eD (at least not outside of audiophile forums) but would serve admirably for the situation here.
eD makes nice stuff, but in car audio, there is never only one solution.
eD makes nice stuff, but in car audio, there is never only one solution.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
Hey guys, I just pulled my spare out and noticed something interesting - what do you all make of this:
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Monsoon systems use an odd mix of 2-ohm and 4-ohm speaker elements. They are used differently between Camaros and Firebirds as well. For example, Camaros have 2-ohm SVC subs in the sail panels, Firebirds have 4-ohm DVC subs there. All of the tweeters as well as the hatch mids are 4-ohm in both models. The door mids are 2-ohm. Experience has shown that the factory speakers are so inefficient that replacing them with more efficient (90dB or better) 4-ohm aftermarket speakers will make the loss of power hardly noticeable.
Oh, well I'm retarded. Does this mean then that, despite the fact that they're only filler, I could easily just get some speakers that are plug n' play for the sail panels?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
Oh, well I'm retarded. Does this mean then that, despite the fact that they're only filler, I could easily just get some speakers that are plug n' play for the sail panels?
Sails refer to the subs in the rear seats -- hatch is the furthest back.
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 21, 2007 at 09:15 PM.
Alright everybody, thanks so much for all of your replies! I'm about ready to make a purchase, I know the specifications I need and I know how much I'm ready to spend, but I'm not really up to date on different brands and their quality, so could someone tell me what to stay away from?
I found this website which seems to have really good prices and a large selection of component speakers, so is there anything particularly good listed here which I should consider?
Thanks!
I found this website which seems to have really good prices and a large selection of component speakers, so is there anything particularly good listed here which I should consider?
Thanks!
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Not sure about shipping - but take a look at this website as well:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/index.php
As far as common brands, look at: higher end Alpines (some don't like their components), Kenwood, Infinity, Polk, MB Quartz, Pioneer, Phoenix Gold, Elemental Designs.....all in no particular order.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/index.php
As far as common brands, look at: higher end Alpines (some don't like their components), Kenwood, Infinity, Polk, MB Quartz, Pioneer, Phoenix Gold, Elemental Designs.....all in no particular order.
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 21, 2007 at 11:01 PM.
Awesome, now I'm narrowing down my options. So would you say that as long as I'm not buying the lowest quality speakers from these companies, I can't really go wrong?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
Awesome, now I'm narrowing down my options. So would you say that as long as I'm not buying the lowest quality speakers from these companies, I can't really go wrong?
Depending on if you are going to amp them of not in the future - pay attention to the rms values...and especially if you're staying stock, pay attention to the sensitivity as well (higher=better/more efficient).
If possible, also try to listen to some of them....that may be difficult, but might be worth it in the end.
I highly doubt I'm going to amp them in the future. I'm more of a classic rock kind of guy so I'll take clarity over volume and bass any day. If I were to amp them, for whatever reason, I can basically assume that a higher peak power = good, right?
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
I highly doubt I'm going to amp them in the future. I'm more of a classic rock kind of guy so I'll take clarity over volume and bass any day. If I were to amp them, for whatever reason, I can basically assume that a higher peak power = good, right?
Plus -- amps aren't just for volume.....your music will sound much cleaner with an amp. Adding an amplifier gives you a clean power source that powers speakers better than cranking up the HU power where it may struggle to produce clean tones. An external power amp isn't limited by the space, so they are larger and able to produce more power, and cleaner power. All of this causes ANY music to sound cleaner/crisper/more defined at ALL volumes.
Pay more attention to RMS values rather than peak powers... RMS is continuous power, while peak is a short burst of power in music... You can't necessarily say "higher is better"....because quality and efficiency plays a role as well. As long as you are looking at the better brands, higher RMS values though generally could be considered "better", but not necessarily if you don't plan on amping them.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Gallstaff
Hey guys, I just pulled my spare out and noticed something interesting - what do you all make of this:
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
This is the speaker from the sail panel, note that it says 4 ohm on it. The tweeter says 4ohm as well. Is GM just mislabeling these speakers or are they both 4 ohm? I assumed the tweeter was, but the mid wasn't.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Yes, they are 4-ohm - but they're 4-ohm dual voice coil which is an important distinction. They're not like a typical 6.5" 4-ohm speaker because they have two positive and two negative connections rather than just one of each. There's no tweeter there either - the two sets of connections are both used to drive the woofer. That's why the ED subs are such a good solution - they will wire right into the factory harness because they are also 4-ohm DVC.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by fredmr39
I believe the speaker he had in that photo was a midrange hatch component speaker, NOT a rear sail woofer as described (it's not obvious until you enlarge the picture) -- so just the wrong terminology was used in the description.
