would a 200amp alternator make my car faster?
would a 200amp alternator make my car faster? Trying to figure out if its real or just my imagination, but i have a racetronix hotwire kit and have a 200amp alternator. The alternator went out on me, so i had to buy a kragen one for the time between sending this out and getting it back. Anyway, my car feels quite a bit slower now. How much do you think that the 200amp alternator accounts for speed wise? Do i really need it? I posted this somewhere else, but i realize that its more of a fueling question than anything. Thanks guys
the racetronix one probably just has better bearings in it than the other brand and thus creates less drag since its meant for racing.but it would not be any major hp loss maybe a couple horsepower if that. -tony-
my pump is racetronix, but the alternator is not. its from alterstart. basically i wanted to know if the hotwire mattered whether or not it was on a regular 102 amp alternator that i have on the car now, or a 200amp alternator that i am sending back
ok seriously though.... you will see no performance gain going to a higher output alternator. unless you have a really really big stereo system or have something that draws a lot of power, just stick with the stocker.
Well, what CAN happen is if a particular item (ie fuel pump) that will draw "X" amount of amps, and it does not get teh requried amount, it may not provide teh fuel pressure needed for your setup.
Now, there is a WHOLE lot more to the equation than that, BUT:
Your car has alot of parts that require power to run....PCM, Injectors, Coils, sensors, fuel pump, relays...radio, lights, wipers, windows, AC, etc...
That is ALOT of power (voltage/amps) that is required, and say your alternator/battery are not up to snuff...coils can have less "zap" in em, providing less fire in teh cylinder and thigs like that.
If you go teh race track, and go find a SERIOUS Nitrous car....with huge solenoids on it....and then check out the batteries/power he is providing for it. Because it takes ALOT of power to open those nitrous solenoids, and you are down on power, and say a fuel solenoid does not open as fast or whatever, because you are down on power...BOOM!
But, to answer your question, your car CAN perform poorly with a charging system/battery that is not up to snuff or provide sufficient power to those parts (pump/injectors/PCM, etc....)
On high end cars, when they sense low power, PCM will actually disable items...ABS, powersunroof, etc....as it goes into a "limp" mode...providing power to the ONLY parts neccessary to safely get you home/repair shop.
Now, there is a WHOLE lot more to the equation than that, BUT:
Your car has alot of parts that require power to run....PCM, Injectors, Coils, sensors, fuel pump, relays...radio, lights, wipers, windows, AC, etc...
That is ALOT of power (voltage/amps) that is required, and say your alternator/battery are not up to snuff...coils can have less "zap" in em, providing less fire in teh cylinder and thigs like that.
If you go teh race track, and go find a SERIOUS Nitrous car....with huge solenoids on it....and then check out the batteries/power he is providing for it. Because it takes ALOT of power to open those nitrous solenoids, and you are down on power, and say a fuel solenoid does not open as fast or whatever, because you are down on power...BOOM!
But, to answer your question, your car CAN perform poorly with a charging system/battery that is not up to snuff or provide sufficient power to those parts (pump/injectors/PCM, etc....)
On high end cars, when they sense low power, PCM will actually disable items...ABS, powersunroof, etc....as it goes into a "limp" mode...providing power to the ONLY parts neccessary to safely get you home/repair shop.
Just ALWAYS make sure you have GOOD cable, that are clean and free of corrosion, as well as good and tight. Try and run as many GOOD grounds that you can....try and run GOOD cable ends, and make sure they are TIGHT!
Also, get ya a GOOD battery. Not some $50 Sams battery. Optima is teh ****, but, expensive.
Also, GET AWAY FROM the side post battery, and get a TOP POST battery. Side post batteries on GM cars...SUCK!! I bet you any amount of money....go find 10 GM cars with side post, that are 2-3+ years old, and go grab teh cable's and wiggle it, I can guarantee that 6-7 of those 10 will be LOOSE!!
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Verdad Gallardo I also have a nitorus kit, 800 watt amp, and 2 12 inch subs in my car. So, im thinkin all that power draw would keep the alternator running really hard, and with my racetronix hotwire kit, i would think thats about all a regulay alternator can handle. So basically, i should fork over the 40 bucks for shipping to the company i bought it from and have them fix it huh?
wait, so an alternator with better bearings is going to increase the amperage by 60 amps? LMFAO.
ok seriously though.... you will see no performance gain going to a higher output alternator. unless you have a really really big stereo system or have something that draws a lot of power, just stick with the stocker.
ok seriously though.... you will see no performance gain going to a higher output alternator. unless you have a really really big stereo system or have something that draws a lot of power, just stick with the stocker.
If you have mostly factory electronics there will be 0 difference. On any single circuit the amperage is limited to X amount of amps. Lets say you have a 15 amp fuse on the stereo circuit, it will draw no more than 15 amps , no matter what alternator you put into it. so your 200 amp alternator was worthless unless you had some serious electronics (amplifiers, screens, etc). Your fuel pump circuit goes through a relay under the hood then is fused behind the fuse panel. Your not going to be able to give it more amps than that fuse anyway.
For example: I am still running the factory alternator (although I beat it up at times) and im running about 2600 watts of continuous power through it. The only difference is that I have a secondary mini battery (bat-cap) , so that when I turn the system up a bit, I dont kill my first batter and alternator to quickly. I also do not turn it on more than 1 time a week though. ( constantly changing equipment)
For example: I am still running the factory alternator (although I beat it up at times) and im running about 2600 watts of continuous power through it. The only difference is that I have a secondary mini battery (bat-cap) , so that when I turn the system up a bit, I dont kill my first batter and alternator to quickly. I also do not turn it on more than 1 time a week though. ( constantly changing equipment)
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Above the Arctic Circle Kiruna Sweden
When me and a friend of mine was out doing WOT runs to tune the F.A.S.T engine management system. We noticed a drop in voltage compared to the voltage in idle and light throttle. We are not sure what can be the reason for that.An explanation can be that the injectors works harder (longer hold open time) and therefore want more current. The car is a 1989 Turbo Trans Am with a 6cyl turbo charged engine, i don´t remember the size of the injectors but they are way bigger than stock.
After this experience i would go for a powerful alternator
After this experience i would go for a powerful alternator
Well, with that much "stuff" in your car, you are definitely taxing your system, sure. So, you need all the power you can get, yes....
See above (don't think he is running mostly factory electronics
)When me and a friend of mine was out doing WOT runs to tune the F.A.S.T engine management system. We noticed a drop in voltage compared to the voltage in idle and light throttle. We are not sure what can be the reason for that.An explanation can be that the injectors works harder (longer hold open time) and therefore want more current. The car is a 1989 Turbo Trans Am with a 6cyl turbo charged engine, i don´t remember the size of the injectors but they are way bigger than stock.
After this experience i would go for a powerful alternator
After this experience i would go for a powerful alternator
Agreed. Most people never see that side of the equation. I remember reading an article way back @ '95 in Hot Rod, and Tony Christianson (sp?) who ran his Pro Mod Nitrous 57 Chevy in teh "fastest street car" series. Well, he had an alternator on his car, driven off his rear end. When asked why he needed an alternator for his car, and he said, because of all teh electronics on his car (namely his nitrous solenoids) drew so much Amperage, that he had to.
He had found out that before he ran teh alternator, his nitrous solenoids would not open sometimes, or sometimes, just one side would open (like the nitrous side) and BAM!
So, he found out teh hard way that he needed more power, hence the alternator.
Now, I do know that we have come a LOOONGG way since that article, in batteries and such. But my point is, you still need power for things to operate as intended. And you put poor connections, small cables, loose ends, undersized batteries/alternators, and things are not gonna work properly.
And when you have 800 Watt stereo's/nitrous solenoids/bigger fuel pumps, etc...you need to step up your charging system as well.
Whew, little long winded..
