LS1 in a Volvo 240 wagon . . . .
#1
LS1 in a Volvo 240 wagon . . . .
Anybody done it??? The car holds a certain sentimental value to me, my mom had a 1987(maybe 1988) model when I was a little kid. The stogy, dorky, brickish vibe is kind of cool in its own right. I can pick up a really nice one for about $3000, and a 5.3 V8 truck engine/tranny combo can be had for dirt cheap.
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
#5
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...84012931f3.htm
check out that link if u wanna see a TT ls1 volvo wagon i dont know if its the same kind u wanna swap i dont know much about volvos. I always though it would be awsome to see this volvo race V8 supra builders bmw 5.3 turbo wagon that would be the ultimate race of sleepers
check out that link if u wanna see a TT ls1 volvo wagon i dont know if its the same kind u wanna swap i dont know much about volvos. I always though it would be awsome to see this volvo race V8 supra builders bmw 5.3 turbo wagon that would be the ultimate race of sleepers
#6
On The Tree
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i put a Gen 1 350 and a muncie 4 speed in a 264 a while ago. (264 is just a V6 240). I used a Monza bellhousing and clutch fork and had a clutch cable made for about $60.00.The brakes and struts are bigger in a V6 car. You'll have to use a V6 front sway bar. The rear is a Dana 44 (sort of) and it's pretty tuff. My son drove the car for two years and the only thing he broke was the upper rear trailing arm on the passenger side. Get the book from "Jags that run". It's got all the drivetrain info you'll need and goto the website above and you should know everything you'll need to do your swap. DO IT !!
#7
Staging Lane
Join Date: Oct 2005
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- JTR Volvo 200 page: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Volvo_200_V-8.html
- JTR Volvo 200 parts: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Volvo_Order.html
- JTR Volvo 200 V8 motor mounts: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_Volvo200-MotorMount.html
If you use mounts made for the traditional small block you can use adapters to bolt the mounts to the LS based engine.
The 1031 (Dana 30) rearend may be a weak link but several over at turbobricks.com have converted to the Ford 8.8:
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...ad.php?t=98348
http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...ad.php?t=99202
I have an LT1/T56 in a 740 wagon that puts 290hp / 325tq to a stock 1041 rearend (Dana 30 with G80 locker, came in later Volvos) and I have not broken it in 18 months of driving, but the previous owner did break the original rearend.
Your budget seems adequate, I'd suggest buying the newest 240 wagon you can find (they were built up through '93) and definitely spend the money to get one in good shape. You'll blow your budget if you have to redo the interior, paint, etc.
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#8
Anybody done it??? The car holds a certain sentimental value to me, my mom had a 1987(maybe 1988) model when I was a little kid. The stogy, dorky, brickish vibe is kind of cool in its own right. I can pick up a really nice one for about $3000, and a 5.3 V8 truck engine/tranny combo can be had for dirt cheap.
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
It is in 1979 262C Bertone volvo. Donor 1998 Camaro ss z28 .There is a lot of modifications involvedfloorboard modifications. You need to use in 1998 960 volvo suffering there is modifications involved in this. You have to be very mechanically inclined to do something like this. Is not an amateurish job I am currently year 23 volvo technician
#9
1eee
Anybody done it??? The car holds a certain sentimental value to me, my mom had a 1987(maybe 1988) model when I was a little kid. The stogy, dorky, brickish vibe is kind of cool in its own right. I can pick up a really nice one for about $3000, and a 5.3 V8 truck engine/tranny combo can be had for dirt cheap.
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
These cars are suprisingly light weight~3000lbs. Hopefully a header, true dual, intake, stalled, and properly geared 5.3 V8 will turn a 13.5 second quarter mile.
Will it fit? Can I run the stock rear end?
It is in 1979 262C Bertone volvo. Donor 1998 Camaro ss z28 .There is a lot of modifications involvedfloorboard modifications. You need to use in 1998 960 volvo suffering there is modifications involved in this. You have to be very mechanically inclined to do something like this. Is not an amateurish job I am currently year 23 volvo technician
#10
Here's one:
83 242 V8 LQ4 swap
I've got a '77 244 with a LT1/T56 and an 8.8 rear. Makes for a fun driver.
83 242 V8 LQ4 swap
I've got a '77 244 with a LT1/T56 and an 8.8 rear. Makes for a fun driver.
#11
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
There is a 1998 Volvo V70 T5 for sale in NorCal for $1K with a bad motor. Passenger side 1/4 panel needs to be painted and both bumpers at the minimum; however it is a good start. I'm sure they would take $500..... it is on Craigslist for a while now.
To hold the power you would want to install an 8.8" Ford rear out back. They are cheap and abundant. Move the brackets from your existing diff housing over to this one to make it work.
To hold the power you would want to install an 8.8" Ford rear out back. They are cheap and abundant. Move the brackets from your existing diff housing over to this one to make it work.
#12
There is a 1998 Volvo V70 T5 for sale in NorCal for $1K with a bad motor. Passenger side 1/4 panel needs to be painted and both bumpers at the minimum; however it is a good start. I'm sure they would take $500..... it is on Craigslist for a while now.
To hold the power you would want to install an 8.8" Ford rear out back. They are cheap and abundant. Move the brackets from your existing diff housing over to this one to make it work.
To hold the power you would want to install an 8.8" Ford rear out back. They are cheap and abundant. Move the brackets from your existing diff housing over to this one to make it work.
#13
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2010
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I'm a couple of weeks away from trying to fire my LS1/T56 swap into a V90, which is the last version of the 960 wagon. This is the top of the line, all the buttons, body colored bumper, door handle, roof rack etc wagon with RWD with an IRS. I bought a 04 GTO as the donor car (actually ended up with two).
It's been a year on and off project, mostly off, as I started it almost exactly one year ago and pushed it outside in April for boating season and didn't bring it back in the garage until Christmas week. I only get 8-10 hours a weekend on it.
I have my exhaust manifolds in, after some machining (and screwing around with trying to adapt headers from the GTO for too many hours to count), drive shaft, fuel lines, shifter, new to the car hydraulic clutch sytem, .... I'm in the process of adapting the wiring after having the PCM reprogrammed. All the tube pieces for the front of the exhaust is in shipping, and should be here this week.
This was not a simple swap, but I'm still hoping for a excellent daily driver sleeper volvo wagon. If you pay $3k for a car, you will probably exeede your budget unless you get a cheap drivetrain. I paid $250 for the car I'm doing, and it's in pretty good condition, zero rust, with only 130k miles.
As far as JTR goes, I didn't find them particularly useful beyond what you read on their website. If you do a 240 it may be of more use to you, and if you don't go LSx, even more help. For me, not so much at all.
Feel free to email me, and I'll share what I've learned.
you can search for my user name and see some of the posts of the car and motor mounts from last year.
mike
mikezohsix@yahoo.com
It's been a year on and off project, mostly off, as I started it almost exactly one year ago and pushed it outside in April for boating season and didn't bring it back in the garage until Christmas week. I only get 8-10 hours a weekend on it.
I have my exhaust manifolds in, after some machining (and screwing around with trying to adapt headers from the GTO for too many hours to count), drive shaft, fuel lines, shifter, new to the car hydraulic clutch sytem, .... I'm in the process of adapting the wiring after having the PCM reprogrammed. All the tube pieces for the front of the exhaust is in shipping, and should be here this week.
This was not a simple swap, but I'm still hoping for a excellent daily driver sleeper volvo wagon. If you pay $3k for a car, you will probably exeede your budget unless you get a cheap drivetrain. I paid $250 for the car I'm doing, and it's in pretty good condition, zero rust, with only 130k miles.
As far as JTR goes, I didn't find them particularly useful beyond what you read on their website. If you do a 240 it may be of more use to you, and if you don't go LSx, even more help. For me, not so much at all.
Feel free to email me, and I'll share what I've learned.
you can search for my user name and see some of the posts of the car and motor mounts from last year.
mike
mikezohsix@yahoo.com
#14
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Okay guys, I'm losing it...does anyone have measurements of the correct offset for drivetrain centerline in a 240? Seems like I keep measuring 1.5"up in the back and .5" up front, which is just stupid. What am I doing wrong? Does the JTR book have this info? Thanks!
Mike
Mike