Write Up: C6 Steering Wheel in an F-body
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
yea thats weight without bags... havent done it with yet. Tomorrows gonna be the tricky part I have a feeling, i think from here in it gets pretty complicated
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
Thanks man, same here, Ive been obsessed with this project since i first drove a c6, loved the wheels in them. I dont think im the first though, there was a pic floating around a few years ago that was debated rather it was photoshopped or not... i think it was real but whoever did it wasnt a forum member and never shared the info even though they figured it out. Guess we'll see tomorrow hopefully.
I've been reading more about single vs dual stage bags, and it appears that a dual stage bag fired in stage 1+2 (both charges at the same time) is the same as our single stage bag firing. They didn't add a higher power level, they added a lower power level for lower speed impacts. Some guys on BMW, Lexus, and Acura forums for example have just wired up the dual stage bag with both connections in parallel.
Of course, no one has really fully tested this as no one wanted to go out and get in a wreck lol. But the theory behind it is sound.
Of course, no one has really fully tested this as no one wanted to go out and get in a wreck lol. But the theory behind it is sound.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
wheel controls are almost certainly a negative on my end anyway. I bought delete caps for the wheel. With the can bus style electronics it would be nearly impossible i would think. Im no engineer though. I never really got much into it since i broke my wheel controls a week after i had the car and never looked back 
As for the bag... thats defiantly food for thought. So if the resistance tests the same in theory if your wired them in series rather than parallel an impact would blow the bag.
As for the bag... thats defiantly food for thought. So if the resistance tests the same in theory if your wired them in series rather than parallel an impact would blow the bag. Yea , with the radio switches would not have worked at all. Is the pic with the wheels side by side an illusion or is the 3 spoke smaller than the f-car wheel? The F-car wheel IS a school bus wheel, but the same 3 spoke wheel in my Cobalt SS seemed just as school bus big.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
ill do my best... newer style cars use what is called a CAN-bus electronics. Basically what that means is rather than being a straight on off voltage controlled by a switch like our cars have it means they talk from component to component more like a computer through a serial signal. It allows for less wires to achieve more functions.
ill do my best... newer style cars use what is called a CAN-bus electronics. Basically what that means is rather than being a straight on off voltage controlled by a switch like our cars have it means they talk from component to component more like a computer through a serial signal. It allows for less wires to achieve more functions.
Excuse my ignorance, but even with an aftermarket headunit and an adapter for the steering wheel controls, it would still not be possible to regain functionality when switching to a newer style OEM wheel?
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
i wont say for sure that its impossible, but my guess would be the engineering involved would hardly be worth it. You would have to bring power to the controls (im assuming all this by the way, i dont know for sure so please if im wrong let me know) and have a controller they talk to that then in turn talks to the head unit. This would mean you'd have to either find or make some sort of stand alone unit (remember that most new factory radios are fully integrated into the vehicles on board system). Im no electrical engineer by any means. I did drivability diagnostics when I worked in the field so I have some understanding on car wiring but this new stuff confuses me. Alots changed in the last 5 years.
To answer the question in short, could it be done? Like my grandfather always says, with enough time and money you can fit a freightliner in a fiesta, that dosent mean its gonna be easy. Id say as of now based on what ive seen in the column it would be pretty hard. Im still nervous on rather or not ill be able to get the horn to work, much less the bag.
To answer the question in short, could it be done? Like my grandfather always says, with enough time and money you can fit a freightliner in a fiesta, that dosent mean its gonna be easy. Id say as of now based on what ive seen in the column it would be pretty hard. Im still nervous on rather or not ill be able to get the horn to work, much less the bag.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
gottr' done swat! its official, it works!... as for the write up i promised... i think the link i posted earlier ( http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf ) dose a far better job than I can do. You gotta work it reverse for disassembly but theres no way I can match what these guys already wrote. The only diffrence is when you get to the shaft, you replace it with the new vette one.
To add to that though do yourself a favor and pull the column from the get go... i didnt and I payed for it tonight. Its not hard, just a couple of bolts and connectors, very straight foward. shbox has a good write up on it. make sure your wheels are straight and steering is centered when you do this, mark top on the bottom of the shaft and also mark top on the new shaft after you test it against the wheel, this will help you keep things lined up. I just used a sharpie.
Still gotta assemble the top part of the column but heres the pics and the proof i know youve all been waiting for. Im not done with the write up either. Ill be documenting my attempt to make the horn work as well and giving finished pics. Heres what we accomplished this evening though
bottom shaft is the new c6
To add to that though do yourself a favor and pull the column from the get go... i didnt and I payed for it tonight. Its not hard, just a couple of bolts and connectors, very straight foward. shbox has a good write up on it. make sure your wheels are straight and steering is centered when you do this, mark top on the bottom of the shaft and also mark top on the new shaft after you test it against the wheel, this will help you keep things lined up. I just used a sharpie.
Still gotta assemble the top part of the column but heres the pics and the proof i know youve all been waiting for. Im not done with the write up either. Ill be documenting my attempt to make the horn work as well and giving finished pics. Heres what we accomplished this evening though
bottom shaft is the new c6