Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

Solid motor mounts VS poly motor mounts

Old 07-14-2007, 12:16 PM
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Default Solid motor mounts VS poly motor mounts

Whos runnin either and what are the pros/cons to either what do you all like most about them.
Old 07-14-2007, 01:00 PM
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Solids are easier to work around because they are just a tube instead of the pedestal setup. They are also lighter. They do vibrate a little at idle, and nothing after that.

Poly mounts are the solid's retarded cousin.

Guess which mount I own.
Old 07-14-2007, 04:18 PM
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The poly's? just kidding man. What brand of solids are you runnin?
Old 07-14-2007, 04:55 PM
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Spohn. They are more expensive than polys but I love 'em
Old 07-14-2007, 07:56 PM
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prothanes here, no complaints don't mind the extra shakes, makes the car feel way more solid, plus i wont be removing them when i install the new clutch like the solids but i did do some debating between the two either way you will like the change they make im sure.
Old 07-14-2007, 09:04 PM
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im running poly motor mounts and a stock tranny mount. no shimmies, shakes, or rattles.
Old 07-14-2007, 10:01 PM
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You gotta remove solids to do a clutch?
Old 07-15-2007, 12:08 AM
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Why would you have solid mounts over the stock ones? What do you gain by doing this?
Old 07-15-2007, 01:21 AM
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Most people who go to solid mounts are drag racing. Solid mounts remove the possibility of the motor coming loose to due the oem style mount(s) breaking (separating).
Old 07-15-2007, 08:23 AM
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So which is better...

Prothane or Energy Suspension
Old 07-15-2007, 10:37 AM
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I don't think one is super superior to the other.

I got prothane.
Old 07-15-2007, 11:10 AM
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I just installed Prothane ones. My tranny mount was broken (probably for a long time) and I ended up breaking the pass side motor mount. It didn't bang or make any noises though until the motor mount went. Kinda sucked because it was a pain to get the mounts to line up to get it back together.

Took about 8 hours total. most of the time spent just getting the new mounts to line up enough to get the long bolts in. man that was a pain! I was told after they break in if I pull the long bolts and move the engine they will go back in easily without all the prying and crap. I hope that is true because I'll be installing LT headers sometime soon.
Old 07-15-2007, 12:21 PM
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i have solids in mine, and once your driving and such it dosnt feel any different than the stock ones, the time you can tell though is when your idling, the car rocks back and forth alittle with the engine, but nothing you cant handle. one part though that ipsses me off is at around 2200 rpm's the car shacks just as it's about to shift into the next gear, but i heard that was normal.
Old 07-15-2007, 03:52 PM
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for whoever said you have to remove the mounts for a clutch, you are mistaken. With the assistance of a lift and airtools, I can have my tranny out on the ground in under 30 minutes. I unbolt the k-frame from the body and have it sit on a screwjack. This allows for much more room than bending the stock rubber mounts.
Old 07-15-2007, 06:18 PM
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its up to you which ever you decide, maybe someone told me wrong about having to remove the solids to replace a clutch but like i said either way you go you will like the feel of it over stock.
Old 07-16-2007, 02:12 PM
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Continue debating.
Old 07-16-2007, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 02_CETA_ws6
its up to you which ever you decide, maybe someone told me wrong about having to remove the solids to replace a clutch but like i said either way you go you will like the feel of it over stock.
They probably said that so you can pull the tail of the trans down to get the upper trans to bell housing bolts out easier.
Old 07-18-2007, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 3.4camaro
for whoever said you have to remove the mounts for a clutch, you are mistaken. With the assistance of a lift and airtools, I can have my tranny out on the ground in under 30 minutes. I unbolt the k-frame from the body and have it sit on a screwjack. This allows for much more room than bending the stock rubber mounts.


**** took me 14hrs too get that bitch out. come help me put it in!!!
Old 07-18-2007, 09:32 PM
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solid here. they are lighter, stronger , easier access to the motor mount bolts, etc. i like the small vibration at idle. we do have muscle cars after all .
Old 07-18-2007, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 99DWPTA
**** took me 14hrs too get that bitch out. come help me put it in!!!
The manual transmission was designed to be removed 1st from the bell housing, then 2nd remove the bell housing from the block. This is per Hayes GM manuals.

It works really well this way and saves a bunch of hassles.

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