Solid motor mounts VS poly motor mounts
Originally Posted by Proud2bSS
The manual transmission was designed to be removed 1st from the bell housing, then 2nd remove the bell housing from the block. This is per Hayes GM manuals.
It works really well this way and saves a bunch of hassles.
It works really well this way and saves a bunch of hassles.
I just took the whole bitch out at once. My only complaint is the O2 sensor sometimes gets in the way.
ANYways, we do have muscle cars. Muscle cars should vibrate. Solids win.
That seems like a very uneducated post. You don't own a car with solid mounts, so you should not comment on them, unless you are commenting on price.
Spohn claims a slight advantage of HP because there is no tossing and turning of the engine. They claim this puts more power to the ground. I really love my solid mounts.
I have yet to hear of ONE person who had/has solid mounts that doesn't like them.
EDIT- the bushing is there for the same reason the car doesn't have 500hp, so I can change it.
Spohn claims a slight advantage of HP because there is no tossing and turning of the engine. They claim this puts more power to the ground. I really love my solid mounts.
I have yet to hear of ONE person who had/has solid mounts that doesn't like them.
EDIT- the bushing is there for the same reason the car doesn't have 500hp, so I can change it.
Ok with no bushing there to soak up some movement that has to put more stress on the drivetrain I dont have to own them to know that. I had a car with just some stiff poly mounts b4 also and it was terrible so I was even worried about getting them on this car. Now on a ls1 they might not be bad as far as the vibration but with my stock tranny and 10bolt im sticking with the polys.
I disagree with the "adding stress to the drivetrain" for this reason: rubber and poly mounts allow binding of the drivetrain. This means the engine is moving. I put solid mounts on the car, a poly tranny mount, a body mounted torque arm(rod-ended), tubular LCAs(poly) and relocation brackets. My drivetrain does not move at all, and there is no articulation. This puts the most power to the ground and will cause less wear and tear on the tranny mount and LCAs because they wont move, either. Movement of bushings cause wear.
I'm sure you love your poly's, but you are commenting and speculating on something you don't have firsthand experience with. I'm in favor of solid mounts for the weight savings and race car feel, and I SPECULATE they don't vibrate anymore than poly mounts, based on the reviews I've read on this board.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
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When I put my poly's in, they didn't line up very well. Instead of fighting the motor, I took the mount back out, put it in the vise and pushed the metal tube over to get it to line up better. It took me all of 10 mins to bend it and get all four bolts in. PM if you need more details, but it is an easy fix to a common problem.
May have missed it but...
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
I have poly's now and love them. But when I get me a new K-Member, it'll be solids for sure. Either is a 1000x better than stock mounts though, especially if your car is cammed.
Originally Posted by PowerShift408
I have poly's now and love them. But when I get me a new K-Member, it'll be solids for sure. Either is a 1000x better than stock mounts though, especially if your car is cammed.
Originally Posted by NU_BLUE
May have missed it but...
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
Can these mounts be a butt to put it? How long does it take? Whats the best way to do it?
I make about 400 RWHP with a cam and someother things..The car idles so rough with rubber bushings I figure either poly or solid would absorb it. I'm surprised the rubber bushing aren't shot yet..
yeah, they are a pain in the *** to change. i would have someone else there to help you.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
When I did poly ones in my 94 T/a I couldn't get it to line up for the life of me at first. Spent about 6-7 hours trying to get the driver's side to work for me and then just gave up for the day. Figured out that my problem was that the car wasn't sitting completely level. I just put a carpenter's level on my intake, leveled it out best I could (my driveway is crooked, most of the problem) and worked like a charm. Got the driver's side in, passenger's side out and new one in, took me 1.5-2 hrs once it was leveled out.
Another thought: it may seem obvious, but only do one side at a time if you are doing it with the engine in the car. I have heard of people making the mistake of taking out both of the old motor mounts before starting the new ones, and then it becomes much more difficult. Do one at a time and save yourself some aggravation
11 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 10
From: long island, ny
im still on my stock mounts here...i was thinking about changing them out but to tell you the truth the extra vibration and shake is not worth it for a street strip car. i had poly mounts in my 89 and they sucked
I'm sure you love your poly's, but you are commenting and speculating on something you don't have firsthand experience with. I'm in favor of solid mounts for the weight savings and race car feel, and I SPECULATE they don't vibrate anymore than poly mounts, based on the reviews I've read on this board.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
I want to dispel myths on here about solid mounts and explain their benefits. Most people here that bash solid mounts have never had them on their car.
My only beef with running solid mounts would be 1) access to transmission & bellhousing bolts and 2) I don't believe an aftermarket K-member can be used with solids. Other than those, I'd be all for running solids.
As for the access to the bolts it's really not a big issue. Either loosen the bolts and drop the K member a little bit or remove the bolts in the M/Ms while leaving the rear-most two on each side allowing you to pivot just like stock. As for the aftermarket K, I do believe you can run the Spohn K with them.
Well, this is an old *** thread... but so are my motor mounts so I suppose i'll ask. Is there any advantage in installation between the two? (poly vs. solids)
Seems that the solids would be slightly easier
Seems that the solids would be slightly easier