Fix for those that have the Mcleod Master Cylinder
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Winter Park, FL
Fix for those that have the Mcleod Master Cylinder 
I know by reading on this forum alot of other people have been having the same problem with the Mcleod master cylinder on the F-body cars. Inconsisted ingagement point; would ingage high sometimes and other times right off the floor board. Mine would also if pumped real quick several times in a row pedal would start going down to the floor. Know there was no problem with air in the system; pressure bleed system; used the mityvac system and were no air bubbles. Looked at the design of a stock master compaired to the McLeod master and the main difference was the design of the piston assembly inside the housing. So I did some research and found Wilwood brakes makes a rebuild kit with a piston assembly made like the stock master but in the 13/16 inch bore. So I took a chance and orderd the rebuild kit from Summit Racing. Took awhile to get it as it was back ordered; but with shipping it was only around $30 dollars. So I put only the new piston and spring part in. Bleed the system, which is still fun but with the mityvac only puling 5lbs vacum removed all the air out of the system. Got in the car and drove it and it works great. Pedal is easier to push now as the spring inside is alittle weaker. I can also pump the pedal as quick as I want now and the pedal stays consistant unlike before it would start dropping closer to the floor and fill like it had alot of play before it would start to build pressure. SO far I do believe this may be accure for the problem alot of use have been having . Trending Topics
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I never considered mine heavy; isn't that more due to the pressure plate on the clutch? I've had this adjustable with 2 clutches now. The RAM980 needed a cinder block to put down, my ClutchMasters in there now is like stock, or close to my 02' Z06 clutch.
I've driven a 2000 F-body that had a stock clutch with the McLeod master cylinder, and the pedal was heavy as hell. I thought it was a heavy duty clutch until I found out otherwise. I thought it had something to do with the larger bore, but I'm probably wrong on that one...
Possibly...when I drove a car with an LS7 clutch installed, I damn near put my foot through the floor board 
It just felt really light...my RPS isn't too bad (in between stock and the Ram I used to run), and the Ram Powergrip I had in before took a pretty good amount of effort.
It just felt really light...my RPS isn't too bad (in between stock and the Ram I used to run), and the Ram Powergrip I had in before took a pretty good amount of effort. I've got the Mcleod master with a Mcleod dual friction single disc, but I forget which pressure plate I have. I'll be checking in the near future when I get my lift. I plan on installing a remote bleader line, and i'll document what I have. Something that I have forgotten to do since I've gotten the clutch.
^^^I hope this is a good fix. I had to put a stocker in for now and it works just fine. I don't have any of the problems I was having before. I am gonna rebuild the Mcleod and put it back in to see if it will do it's job. If not, now I know the stocker will do just fine. I was really surprised with the stocker since I have a Spec 3, but I think the drill mod really helps the stocker out.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Winter Park, FL
Well here is a update on the orignal post I started. Have had the McLeod master cylinder back in my car with the Wilwood master cylinder rebuild kit for about a month and it's still working great. Do believe this will cure alot of problems people have been having. Do think pedal is easier to push because spring in the Wilwood kit is not as strong; but it does not need to be. Just be sure you get all the air bleed out and it will work fine. Hope this helps alot of people out.
