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Old 03-11-2007, 12:13 AM
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Default Oil sprayers? DIY

i know many forced induction cars run oil sprayers to hit the bottom of the piston with oil. This cools the piston and helps fend off detonation.

I was just thinking, how you can make your own oil sprayer setup.

1. tap the port above the oil filter, and run a -4 line to a bulkhead fitting on your oil pan.

2. from inside the oil pan you would need a manifold or a distribution block to have bend stainless hardline.

3. some type of jetting to control the stream and flow of the oil.


anyone else think this is doable? if you take measurements im sure you can get the oil spray to hit the bottom of the piston on the bottom of its stroke.
Old 03-11-2007, 12:49 AM
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I thought the oil sprayers were somehow integrated into the connecting rods? (Or is that only on the big turbo diesels?)
Old 03-11-2007, 12:50 AM
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im not totally sure..i havent had one of these shortblocks apart. I know DSM's used them from the factory.
Old 03-11-2007, 05:00 AM
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Some fords I work with have a 'squirt' outlet on the rod which gets it's oil supply from the rod shells. The oil is squirted onto the cylinder wall. I've thought about a squirted supply to the piston undersides before now but wouldn't want to be the first person to try it and find I haven't got sufficient pressure elsewhere. Especially as I'd also be supplying a pair of turbo's. A high pressure oil pump would be nice insurance and restricted squirt outlets tapped into the block would be a way to achieve piston cooling.

Boosted.
Old 03-11-2007, 11:13 PM
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our motors have Oil sprayers... and we tend to take them out around the 800hp mark

its basically just a little nozzle that points up towards hte piston skirts... nothing else

they sell the kits for relatively cheap... common install into non-turbo supra motors if your lookin for them, it would be a great place to start
Old 03-12-2007, 12:00 AM
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.

Check some of the valve spring kits, I'm sure u can get them to work, or design something using them as an example. Mine came from Jeff Johnston.

.
Old 03-14-2007, 06:57 AM
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Bo Laws Racing makes a kit you can use without having to fab everything. Do a search. They are called piston oilers and tap into the main jounals. The Mitsu nozzles have spring loaded poppet valves so they are shut until pressure is sufficient, such as cranking or idle.

Since I just drive my LS1 car but don't pour wheel-barrels full of cash into it I have a question. Is there a high volume pump for the LS? All I've ever seen is ported/shimmed factory stuff without actually looking hard.

Vernon
Old 03-14-2007, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
Bo Laws Racing makes a kit you can use without having to fab everything. Do a search. They are called piston oilers and tap into the main jounals. The Mitsu nozzles have spring loaded poppet valves so they are shut until pressure is sufficient, such as cranking or idle.

Since I just drive my LS1 car but don't pour wheel-barrels full of cash into it I have a question. Is there a high volume pump for the LS? All I've ever seen is ported/shimmed factory stuff without actually looking hard.

Vernon

The LS6 ported/shimmed oil pump is leaps and bounds better than the old sbc pumps. Yes, melling makes a high volume pump, and GM makes a high volume pump (for the LS4 I think) but be careful, you don't wanna drain your oil pan and ruin a motor because of it.
Old 03-14-2007, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by slow67
The LS6 ported/shimmed oil pump is leaps and bounds better than the old sbc pumps. Yes, melling makes a high volume pump, and GM makes a high volume pump (for the LS4 I think) but be careful, you don't wanna drain your oil pan and ruin a motor because of it.
the oiling system is the largest weak link in the genIII/IV motors.

the oiling system is totally sorted out on SBCs.


if its leaps and bounds better, the only advice i can give, is "look before you leap."
Old 03-14-2007, 03:17 PM
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I'm not sure how its the weakest link, because SBCs only make about 10psi per RPM.

My Cam only LS1 with 94K miles makes 40 psi at idle with the stock pump. The only oiling issues I've heard of, is over-revving and stretching the stock rod bolts, spinning a bearing.

I know I've never had any issues, and spin to 7K daily.
Old 03-14-2007, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by slow67
I'm not sure how its the weakest link, because SBCs only make about 10psi per RPM.

My Cam only LS1 with 94K miles makes 40 psi at idle with the stock pump. The only oiling issues I've heard of, is over-revving and stretching the stock rod bolts, spinning a bearing.
That's an issue of clearances and oil weight, not oil pump. Check your owners manual to make sure you are using the right weight oil for your regions temperature range with your LS1.
Old 03-14-2007, 08:08 PM
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sooooo- back to the piston squirters... has anyone used them on an lsx??
Old 03-16-2007, 10:05 PM
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thats what id like to know lol
Old 03-18-2007, 11:54 AM
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If detonation is your issue why not just tune it right and you will not have to worry about a band aid that may help.

I have ran many a boosted car and some into the 7's at over 171 mph with 6 cylinders. I never even thought of having to spray the bottoms of the pistons. Kept my eyes on the plugs after every run to see if I was having an issue.

Just trying to save you from some work that is not needed.
Old 03-18-2007, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by STOCK1090
If detonation is your issue why not just tune it right and you will not have to worry about a band aid that may help.

I have ran many a boosted car and some into the 7's at over 171 mph with 6 cylinders. I never even thought of having to spray the bottoms of the pistons. Kept my eyes on the plugs after every run to see if I was having an issue.

Just trying to save you from some work that is not needed.
i really wouldnt consider it a bandaid...just another way of squeezing everything you can out. with that rationale coating the tops of the pistons is a bandaid too.
Old 03-18-2007, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by STOCK1090
If detonation is your issue why not just tune it right and you will not have to worry about a band aid that may help.

I have ran many a boosted car and some into the 7's at over 171 mph with 6 cylinders. I never even thought of having to spray the bottoms of the pistons. Kept my eyes on the plugs after every run to see if I was having an issue.

Just trying to save you from some work that is not needed.
What if by using oil sprayers you could up your boost and runs 6's with the same engine?
Old 03-18-2007, 07:40 PM
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.

Coating the piston tops is modern technology, spraying oil to cover up a tuning problem is using modern technology also but y. I would rather have a safer tune up, and not spin thru oil. If I wanted to or needed to run more boost, I would do it thru fuel, intercooler or N2O. It just seems like a less effective system. It takes a ton of HP to make big jumps at our level, and oil sprayers is not going to help that much compared to the other methods. My opinion. To each his own.

.
Old 03-18-2007, 07:57 PM
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They aren't a band-aid to a power adder engine but rather a proven improvement. They are used heavily in OEM diesel, recently by OEM gas in boosted apps., and for a few years in Nascar. They reduce piston dome temps increasing piston and pin life while allowing for increased boost, compression, NO2, or timing with the same octane fuel. If any one is using them in an LSX application yet they aren't talking. I searched heavily a year ago and found little on the net. It's probably still considered a secret weapon by the users. Here's some stuff I did find.

A letter of recommendation from Kieth Black / Slivolite Pistons:
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article....n=read&A_id=64

An excert from Hot Rod on the supercharged Northstar engine


Somebodys post describing the Mitsubishi jets and their part number to order them:
I'm assuming you wish to drill from the upper bearing groove into the top of the upper main boss , aimed at the bottom of each piston.

If so order one MD109259 from a Chrysler or Mitsubishi dealer, see if it will work for you. It is a press in oil jet valve for turbo applications, with a spring and a check valve to open up at ~25 PSI. They are ~ 1/4" diameter and 1" long. Orifice size is ~.040".

A posted answer by Mike Laws (of BLP) on the subject:
I'm still here at BLP - Dad (Bo) keeps trying to run me off - but I'm like an old dog and keep finding my way back home!

Here is the quick version of our piston squirter story: We designed (and received a patent on) the method of drilling through the main journal bulkhead, into the base of each cylinder in order to send a stream of oil to the bottom of each piston. This was back in 1993/94 when I was approached by a Ford NASCAR Team to help with wrist-pin seizure/failure. (This is when the teams were first getting creative in utilizing crankcase vacuum to reduce oil wrap-up. "Vacuuming" the crankcase is/was definitely beneficial for HP - however it also removed the "oil-fog" that was keeping the wrist pins lubricated.) So we machined a block for the squirters and the problem was immediately solved. Another beneficial byproduct of oiling the underside of the piston dome is that heat is flowed out of the piston (dome). A portion of the intake charge in all IC engines is used to cool the piston - therefore when we cooled the pistons from underneath, we could then reduce the amount of fuel to the combustion chamber. This resulted in increased fuel mileage and also allowed for a more aggressive tune-up; so it was one of those rare "win-win" modifications.

For several years; NASCAR would not allow a separate oil squirter system (plate between the block/oil pan, squirters installed in the pan, etc.) - however they have since rescinded that rule. As another person stated, utilizing the squirters with external plumbing has the advantage of utilizing "cooled" oil to spray onto the pistons.

The piston-squirter kits remain a popular item for us, particularly with supercharged/turbocharged engines and those utilizing crankcase vacuum.

Thanks.

ML

Then he was asked about the effects of the increased windage:
Tycho wrote:
How about windage with squirters? Or is the amount of oil being sprayed by them negligible as far as that is concerned?


Your assessment is correct. There is a small amount of "windage" produced from the added oil spray, which is greatly controlled through crankcase vacuum and oil pan design. However, the gains (that are allowed to be made) by cooling the piston far outweigh any disadvantage from the windage-effect".

ML

The link to BLP catalog with the Piston Oilers kit (click where is says "2006 new products click here"):
http://www.blp.com/frmCatalog.htm

Finnally try searching with the correct terminology:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...ts&btnG=Search

Good luck, and if you find an LSX or any other aftermarket information please share.
Vernon

Last edited by Manic Mechanic; 03-18-2007 at 08:24 PM. Reason: add details
Old 03-18-2007, 08:56 PM
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MrDragster I agree. We went to lots of trouble to keep the oil off the rotating assembly and this would just negate all that work. I also like the safe tune up so I do not run over my own parts. I used to give it more fuel than it needs and then bring in a little more timing to make use of that fuel and the watch my plugs closely.

I did try more boost. 4 Hp per cubic inch was pretty good. I did not have enough head bolts to keep going more. That car is gone so it is someone else's problem now.
Old 03-18-2007, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by slow67
The LS6 ported/shimmed oil pump is leaps and bounds better than the old sbc pumps. Yes, melling makes a high volume pump, and GM makes a high volume pump (for the LS4 I think) but be careful, you don't wanna drain your oil pan and ruin a motor because of it.
melling has both a high volume pump and a high pressure pump part # for our cars. i have no clue which one would be worth getting however...


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