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Fuel gauge issue after 6LE install

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Old 08-10-2009, 09:54 AM
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I've done it with the car off and the car running.
Old 08-10-2009, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SLPGTP
I've done it with the car off and the car running.
So weird. So even if you REALLY overcompensate (I mean stick it on at like 3 o'clock) it still goes to the same spot?
Old 08-10-2009, 05:19 PM
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Yup...
Old 08-10-2009, 06:29 PM
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What happens when you do the opposite (make it read lower than it should)? Does it still snap to 3/4?
Old 08-10-2009, 09:08 PM
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Sure does. lol This is why i let my friends do some of my work. I have horrible luck. haha
Old 08-11-2009, 01:23 AM
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is there any chance you have 3/4 of a tank of gas?
Old 08-11-2009, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro Ryder KV
is there any chance you have 3/4 of a tank of gas?


If you let it snap to 3/4 and then drive around for awhile does the needle go down or does it stay at 3/4?
Old 08-11-2009, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro Ryder KV
is there any chance you have 3/4 of a tank of gas?
Filled it to full and it failed. lol So no, it's not 3/4 of a tank.

But I haven't driven long enough to see if it moves.
Old 08-11-2009, 01:00 PM
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My gauges did the same thing. I noticed on the needles that there is the receptacle that fits over the pin that turns the needle, and there is also a second plastic pin dropping down next to that receptacle. The wholes on the gauge overlay were interfering with that second "needle" along the travel from one side to the other. The solution for me was to remove the overlay, apply the contact paper to the glue side, and drill out the whole large enough to allow the needle to travel with out interference.

You can confirm if this the problem by trying to move the needle from one side to the other while it is seated. If you feel too much resistance, then look to see if that additional plastic point is contacting the edge of the whole.
Old 08-11-2009, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lees02WS6
My gauges did the same thing. I noticed on the needles that there is the receptacle that fits over the pin that turns the needle, and there is also a second plastic pin dropping down next to that receptacle. The wholes on the gauge overlay were interfering with that second "needle" along the travel from one side to the other. The solution for me was to remove the overlay, apply the contact paper to the glue side, and drill out the whole large enough to allow the needle to travel with out interference.

You can confirm if this the problem by trying to move the needle from one side to the other while it is seated. If you feel too much resistance, then look to see if that additional plastic point is contacting the edge of the whole.
I'm lost... Any pics?
Old 08-11-2009, 04:37 PM
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Your tach not working is due to removing the cluster. Take the cluster out, and push it back in fully. Chances are one of the pins isn't in all the way. Start your car and make sure all your gauges work before you put everything back together.

I had that happen to me several times.. First my volts, then my tach, then my volts again. My gas gauge has been dead for half a year.. but I think that's cause my sender went bad or something.
Old 08-11-2009, 04:46 PM
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^^I was actually just thinking about that. Sometimes you think the cluster is pushed in all the way but it isn't and it works but works weird...
Old 08-11-2009, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER
^^I was actually just thinking about that. Sometimes you think the cluster is pushed in all the way but it isn't and it works but works weird...
It's happened to me 3 times while taking the cluster out. So it's worth a shot OP.
Old 08-11-2009, 07:15 PM
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i think you need to try to enlarge the hole on the overlay for the gas gauge.
Old 08-11-2009, 09:53 PM
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That will be my next goal. I'll just try to exacto knife it.
Old 08-11-2009, 09:59 PM
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I just don't see how that would cause that unless it was stopping it from going to full somehow...
Old 08-13-2009, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 6LITEREATER
I'm lost... Any pics?
Unfortunately, I didn't have the foresight, didn't think much of it. I'm not saying that is the poster's issue, just worth checking.
Old 08-13-2009, 01:44 PM
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Hey guys, I was looking at some gauge needles I took off a T/A the other day, and i noticed something that may help you out... (try to stay with me, I'll have pics later tonight)

If you take all 4 needles off and place them face down with the needles facing away from you, you'll notice that all 4 have slots. Well, 2 have slots from 12 to 6. one has a slot from 2 to 7 and one has a slot from 10 to 5. Maybe try using a different needle at the gas gauge. I've only heard of a couple of people having the gas gauge issue, so the fix might be in using the correctly keyed needle to the correct gauge.

I unfortunately, as I'm sure many of you did, didn't look at the needles and thought they were all the same.

Just find someone who hasn't put they're overlay on yet and ask them where each needle came from. I bet it'll fix all the problems you're having.

Old 08-13-2009, 05:15 PM
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Get the pics up. But when I took them off, I put them on the counter in the layout they are on the gauge.
Old 08-14-2009, 02:51 AM
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Here's the pic I just took. Notice the notches in the needles? That may play part in the needles not seating correctly. The 2 on the left have "Keys" in the same direction. The 2 on the right are opposite of each other.

The plastic stops are all in the same place so I think the notch might dictate where the needle goes.

Here's how I think they go (from left to right):
#1 - Voltage
#2 - Oil Pressure
#3 - Water Temp.
#4 - Fuel

These are just assumption on if you put the notches on a flat plane of 3 to 9, and then they'd look to be in the right directions for the gauges to work...just my $.02


Last edited by Sommer86; 08-14-2009 at 01:11 PM.


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