Hand polishing?
06-11-2012, 03:41 PM
#1
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Hand polishing? Any tips on polishing by hand? I know I won't get the best results. I plan on using foam pads, but I'm not sure what polish to go with. Thanks guys
06-11-2012, 04:51 PM
#4
The only step in the whole paint correction process that should be done by hand is the final wax. Cutting and polishing is "best" with machine assistance. Doing these steps by hand may look 'good', but they will not yield the full benefits you would get by using a Dual Action polisher that will really work the product and cut that hard clear coat to really give it that glass look we all look for.
06-11-2012, 04:58 PM
#5
Sorry, I hit 'post' on my phone before I finished 
So if you were gonna try to cut/polish by hand and sustain the light/medium amount of pressure and rpm's (lol I don't know how else to put it) you will literally wear yourself out. I attempted this last summer and about had a heat stroke haha. Luckily I had a 12 pack to cool me down
So if you were gonna try to cut/polish by hand and sustain the light/medium amount of pressure and rpm's (lol I don't know how else to put it) you will literally wear yourself out. I attempted this last summer and about had a heat stroke haha. Luckily I had a 12 pack to cool me down
06-11-2012, 08:41 PM
#9
I made the mistake of going to far I had the duel action polisher and used medium cut and did my hood oooopps( I took to much clear coat off)
It still shines and I got rid of the scatches but its not as shinny as it was before, just be carefull ,I got lucky and did like 2 passes with regular rubbing compound and 3 passes with wax, but under shop lights it still looks weird
The rest of the car I just did like 2 passes with regular compound and took my time not to take to much layers off. Its only becase its original paint and the original owner must have not had a garage, newer paint jobs it might not be a prob. but who knows.
I messed up I know..... but I got lucky to stop before I went further
I used the shurhold duel action polisher with black pads (not the white/wool pads) im learning
It still shines and I got rid of the scatches but its not as shinny as it was before, just be carefull ,I got lucky and did like 2 passes with regular rubbing compound and 3 passes with wax, but under shop lights it still looks weird
The rest of the car I just did like 2 passes with regular compound and took my time not to take to much layers off. Its only becase its original paint and the original owner must have not had a garage, newer paint jobs it might not be a prob. but who knows.
I messed up I know..... but I got lucky to stop before I went further
I used the shurhold duel action polisher with black pads (not the white/wool pads) im learning
06-12-2012, 06:53 AM
#10
You can correct by hand, the only issue is no matter what the passion you show in the beginning will slow down as you go along and the "cutting" ability will deminish which for the most part will make correction inconsistant and LONG.
I cannot access the site but Meguiar's has a good chart to show how much "cut" a compound/method has. Using the same compounds but changing from a Rotary to a D/A to Hand will show no matter what product you use, the method on which how you apply will diminish the ability to correct.
Other factors that are involved are arm strengths, speed, pressure, type of applicator and that applicator's cutting ability, as well as hand motion.
GIVEN enough time you can correct a car by hand. Its gonna take a while and you need dedicated space as well as 2-3 hours every night to go from panel to panel.
This pic his a NBM Trans am (not mine) I used Meg's Ultimate Compound (similar to M105 but for retail), a terry cloth towel (Costco/BJ's bulk pack) taped for comparision and just started to rub vigerously. Just had to be careful not to put too much pressure via finger tips.
I cannot access the site but Meguiar's has a good chart to show how much "cut" a compound/method has. Using the same compounds but changing from a Rotary to a D/A to Hand will show no matter what product you use, the method on which how you apply will diminish the ability to correct.
Other factors that are involved are arm strengths, speed, pressure, type of applicator and that applicator's cutting ability, as well as hand motion.
GIVEN enough time you can correct a car by hand. Its gonna take a while and you need dedicated space as well as 2-3 hours every night to go from panel to panel.
This pic his a NBM Trans am (not mine) I used Meg's Ultimate Compound (similar to M105 but for retail), a terry cloth towel (Costco/BJ's bulk pack) taped for comparision and just started to rub vigerously. Just had to be careful not to put too much pressure via finger tips.
06-12-2012, 07:38 AM
#11
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You will get some results, but I would use my time better. Spend a week or two or a month finding an extra $200 and buy the Porter Cable and some pads. They are always sales out there. We get 10% at Adam's plus they have a Fathers Day code for a % off. Not sure if you could use both. I had to replace my PC last year after 5 years service (75-85 cars a year) and found the cheapest was Ebay. Like stated above, hand polishing starts out okay, but there is no way your arms can mimic the PC for hours.
06-12-2012, 08:03 AM
#12
You will get some results, but I would use my time better. Spend a week or two or a month finding an extra $200 and buy the Porter Cable and some pads. They are always sales out there. We get 10% at Adam's plus they have a Fathers Day code for a % off. Not sure if you could use both. I had to replace my PC last year after 5 years service (75-85 cars a year) and found the cheapest was Ebay. Like stated above, hand polishing starts out okay, but there is no way your arms can mimic the PC for hours.
Amazon works good as some places that actually ship the product are places like Autogeek or ADS, they may not say it but it comes from their warehouse. We just bought one gallon of M105/M205 (140$ of stuff) and seem to get the best prices from Amazon. So just look.
If you watch the sales you may do better just get onto to the forums and look, they generally announce it before it occurs.
06-12-2012, 10:17 AM
#14
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Actually I just found the kit for 189 and it comes with 4 pads. I'll probably pull the trigger on payday. I'm thinking two orange and two white pads
06-12-2012, 12:09 PM
#17
I completely understand where your getting at with buying more pads. However, I remember years ago when I was first learning and didn't want to spend the money. You can honestly get away with 1 orange and 1 white pad to do an entire car. Anyone polishing their car for the first time with the combo I mentioned above would be more than happy with the results. You just have to clean the pad after 2 panels or so. I use a pad brush or you can use a micro fiber and use the clean on the fly technique.
06-12-2012, 12:21 PM
#18
Yea, clean on the fly works, pads can get loaded up quickly and having a quick change out helps. Also if the pad gets contaminated it needs to be cleaned and cannot dry it out in a timely manner.
I got by on one orange and one white on the rotary but I would like 3 of each for the work horse items.
I used both brush and towel. It helps but having new/clean pad pores helps with cutting.
So if you can afford it, do so, if you cant then be prepared to be using the other mentioned techniques.
I got by on one orange and one white on the rotary but I would like 3 of each for the work horse items.
I used both brush and towel. It helps but having new/clean pad pores helps with cutting.
So if you can afford it, do so, if you cant then be prepared to be using the other mentioned techniques.
06-12-2012, 01:16 PM
#20
Yes. Orange/105 white/205
As for really cleaning the pad, run it under warm water and get it clean. Wring it out and put it back on you buffer. Hold the pad but allow it to spin on speed 6 to let the water sling off away from your car! Then you can use a MF towel over the pad and hold it tight so the pad won't spin and turn it on a few seconds again. The pad will now be like new and should be dry enough to use. If not, it will be damn close so grab a beer and take a quick break.
As for really cleaning the pad, run it under warm water and get it clean. Wring it out and put it back on you buffer. Hold the pad but allow it to spin on speed 6 to let the water sling off away from your car! Then you can use a MF towel over the pad and hold it tight so the pad won't spin and turn it on a few seconds again. The pad will now be like new and should be dry enough to use. If not, it will be damn close so grab a beer and take a quick break.