4l60E- No 4th or 1st gear or dash gauges *HELP*
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Staging Lane
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4l60E- No 4th or 1st gear or dash gauges *HELP*
I've got a 2000 Silverado 2wd. I started noticing this problem a while back, maybe a year or 2, but I parked the truck since I had my SS and never drove the truck. Since I've put a new engine and trans in the truck, the problem still persists. When I turn the key to the on position, the gauges come on and everything looks fine. When I turn the truck on the gauges will flicker on and then instantly turn off. I also don't have 1st or 4th gear(OD). I figure that it's in limp home mode because 1st and 4th are electronically controlled so 2nd and 3rd are the only gears I can manually get. I have pulled codes and it shows a 4th gear syncro and 1st(if I can remember right). It's been awhile since I had the codes checked but the codes weren't telling me anything I didn't already know. I was told that it could be the neutral safety switch but I'm not %100 set on that being the problem. The truck won't start if it's not in park or neutral but the lights usually work until I turn the truck on so I'm thinking it might be a short in the switch and it only stops working once the truck turns on. I'm at a loss, somebody please give me some advice
Thanks, Jordan
I posted this in the reply below but figured I'd edit my post:
I also forgot to mention, when I start driving it, sometimes the gauges will come on and everything looks to be fine except it still only has 2nd & 3rd gear. It will not automatically shift between the two gears, I have to shift it manually and when I downshift it to 2nd I'll lose all gauges but if it's in 3rd or D the gauges will usually come back on. I know this sounds complicated and that's why I'm asking you guys, because I'm literally stumped at this point. I know it isn't a trans problem because it's done this with 3 different transmissions.
Thanks, Jordan
I posted this in the reply below but figured I'd edit my post:
I also forgot to mention, when I start driving it, sometimes the gauges will come on and everything looks to be fine except it still only has 2nd & 3rd gear. It will not automatically shift between the two gears, I have to shift it manually and when I downshift it to 2nd I'll lose all gauges but if it's in 3rd or D the gauges will usually come back on. I know this sounds complicated and that's why I'm asking you guys, because I'm literally stumped at this point. I know it isn't a trans problem because it's done this with 3 different transmissions.
Last edited by nbm00ss; 01-31-2011 at 04:10 PM. Reason: added info
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I also forgot to mention, when I start driving it, sometimes the gauges will come on and everything looks to be fine except it still only has 2nd & 3rd gear. It will not automatically shift between the two gears, I have to shift it manually and when I downshift it to 2nd I'll lose all gauges but if it's in 3rd or D the gauges will usually come back on. I know this sounds complicated and that's why I'm asking you guys, because I'm literally stumped at this point. I know it isn't a trans problem because it's done this with 3 different transmissions.
#6
Could be an ignition switch. Have you checked for any codes in the ecm? Possibility you could have 2 different problems. Sounds like a shift solenoid problem. Check and see if shift solenoid "A" or "B" is working. Do a click test by switching them on and off. If you cant hear one or the other click OR you pull a code for a bad solenoid then tranny problem should be easy to fix.
Good luck
Good luck
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It pulls code shift solenoid a and b but this is while the gauges are shut off too. The reason I'm not convinced that it's the trans is bc 3 or 4 diff trans have done this. I will work fine when I first install the trans then within a couple days it will start doing this. I've also considered it could be the plug that plugs into the top of the trans on the passenger side. I believe that plug controls the solenoids. The wires for that plug got fried when a trans let go. I ran new wires all the way from the plug up to where the wires were good. Only thing I can think is that the plastic plug itself isn't holding tight and wiggles loose after a few days. It could be 3 or 4 different things at this point and I'm stumped I think I'll try the ignition switch and see what happens. I don't think it's the neutral safety switch. The truck seems to take a tad bit longer to start when I turn the key, I've read that could be a sign of a bad ignition switch. Is that true? Thanks for the help guys
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#9
It has been a while since I have changed one but my foggy recollection is that one of the bolts is a PITA to get to unless you have a deep inverted torx socket. I may be thinking of something else though, my years of dealer experience are kind of blurring together since I haven't done that in 6 or so years.
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I'm gonna start working on getting to the switch to see what I need to do. I'm sure something will be a PITA but I gotta get this truck fixed so I can sell it and get another SS. The damn Ignition switch costs $80 for the cheapo one so I'm just gonna switch them out and if it doesn't fix the problem Ill return it. I'll try the neutral safety switch next but once I install that I wouldn't be able to return it so I'd rather try this ignition switch first. Anymore ideas would be great guys Thanks!
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I just ran some codes and also talked to a transmission guy. He didn't really tell me anything I didn't know except backup the thought that it isn't an internal problem, but a wiring problem. The trans isn't getting power. Here are the codes:
P0740- TCC circuit
P0753- Shift Solenoid
P0785- Shift Timing
P1860- Trans Control
Not sure if this helps or not but hopefully somebody can tell me something with this information. I've got the dash torn apart ready to change the ignition switch. I want to see if anybody else had any other ideas first.
Thanks guys
P0740- TCC circuit
P0753- Shift Solenoid
P0785- Shift Timing
P1860- Trans Control
Not sure if this helps or not but hopefully somebody can tell me something with this information. I've got the dash torn apart ready to change the ignition switch. I want to see if anybody else had any other ideas first.
Thanks guys
#12
I just ran some codes and also talked to a transmission guy. He didn't really tell me anything I didn't know except backup the thought that it isn't an internal problem, but a wiring problem. The trans isn't getting power. Here are the codes:
P0740- TCC circuit
P0753- Shift Solenoid
P0785- Shift Timing
P1860- Trans Control
Not sure if this helps or not but hopefully somebody can tell me something with this information. I've got the dash torn apart ready to change the ignition switch. I want to see if anybody else had any other ideas first.
Thanks guys
P0740- TCC circuit
P0753- Shift Solenoid
P0785- Shift Timing
P1860- Trans Control
Not sure if this helps or not but hopefully somebody can tell me something with this information. I've got the dash torn apart ready to change the ignition switch. I want to see if anybody else had any other ideas first.
Thanks guys
Ever check the power fuse, you rewired it because the wires fried, the fuse must have eventually blown. Usually in a situation like this it's the rewire thats the cause.
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I checked all the fuses in the dash and under the hood. I kinda ruled out a fuse because the gauges coming on and off. If it were a fuse they would be on or off, not flicker. I could be wrong and if I am tell me, I'm just trying to think of the most possible situation here without spending hundreds of dollars replacing tons of things.
#14
Well I read this a few times, it's hard to give good advice without seeing the vehicle so I've come up with this.
You are unsure about the wiring connector at the transmission, you're the only one here that has seen it. It seems like you should go with your instinct and replace that part. Also recheck your wiring splices. You might get both an internal and external wiring harness for the transmission. since half of it burned up before.
If you've got a decent pick your part salvage yard you might save a few bucks and make a better wiring connection by cutting a good plug off a truck like yours and a few feet of wire. This way you end up with one splice per wire. A new repair harness is probably too short to reach your other splices.
You are unsure about the wiring connector at the transmission, you're the only one here that has seen it. It seems like you should go with your instinct and replace that part. Also recheck your wiring splices. You might get both an internal and external wiring harness for the transmission. since half of it burned up before.
If you've got a decent pick your part salvage yard you might save a few bucks and make a better wiring connection by cutting a good plug off a truck like yours and a few feet of wire. This way you end up with one splice per wire. A new repair harness is probably too short to reach your other splices.
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I'm gonna call a couple places tomorrow and see what they've got. I'll see if I cant pull the wiring connector and the ignition switch to save some money. I don't think the wiring is the problem only because the problem was happening before I replaced that harness, while they were just melted wires. I figured that was the problem so I re wired everything and it didn't fix anything. I'm just gonna do like you said and call a u pull it place and see if I can get this stuff
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I changed the ignition switch this morning. $104 dollars from NAPA for a 10 plug switch. It fixed everything. Thanks again guys for your help now I finally have the truck driveable again.