Can you explain somthing to me plzz
03-19-2004, 03:42 PM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Deer Park, Tx
Posts: 805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can you explain somthing to me plzz Ok you can see my sig for my car....... got a 12.9 with bad traction and a bad 60 foot.........
I have a buddy that ran a 12.6 with his 35 Anniver A4 SS with Midlength headers...3.42s.....Lid......exhaust......and programmed......no converter...
i dont understand hows he gettin these times.... whats really the use of me having a converter??
I have a buddy that ran a 12.6 with his 35 Anniver A4 SS with Midlength headers...3.42s.....Lid......exhaust......and programmed......no converter...
i dont understand hows he gettin these times.... whats really the use of me having a converter??
03-19-2004, 03:50 PM
#2
TECH Addict
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
put slicks on and get a line lock, then you'll understand when you dead hook.
i ran a 12.9 on the first try, 2.10 60 (no burnout just scratch, 16psi)
then i did a bigger burnout and 16psi (reset after run) and pulled a 2.0 60
and ran 12.6
then did a bigger burnout, and pulled a 12.481 @ 2.0 60
then said screw it
and did a 10 second burnout in "2" at 16psi.
caught a 1.80 60FT and 12.163.
Still spinning the 555R's. The track is known to suck, but you gotta work on that burnout and tire pressure and launch technique.
brake standing at the lights at (1500,1800,2000,2200) rpm will make or break it. The last run, i brake stand at 2000, lights dropped, released gas pedal, counted 1-2, then matted it. It was my first event so i had no clue, and no other automatic fbody dudes were around to throw some tips at me.
correct tire pressure (check each pass)
big burnout (get them 555R's hot!)
correct brake-stand rpm at light,
AND the right method of going to wot, be it timed, or rolling in the pedal (hard to do with such excitement ya know).
brought me from 12.9 to 12.1 on the same night. I feel with more time on the track 12.0 will be easy.
12.6 is pretty impressive with no converter, thats more like an M6 kinda ET with those mods.
good luck, keep reading up on how to launch and burnout, theres some good threads and one good website (i forget) on how to burnout properly. A linelock would really help. It kinda bothers me to be smoking the rear brakes at 4400rpm in "2" for that long. So i picked up a line lock used for $75 and will put that in. cheaper than doing brakes imo.
i ran a 12.9 on the first try, 2.10 60 (no burnout just scratch, 16psi)
then i did a bigger burnout and 16psi (reset after run) and pulled a 2.0 60
and ran 12.6
then did a bigger burnout, and pulled a 12.481 @ 2.0 60
then said screw it
and did a 10 second burnout in "2" at 16psi.
caught a 1.80 60FT and 12.163.
Still spinning the 555R's. The track is known to suck, but you gotta work on that burnout and tire pressure and launch technique.
brake standing at the lights at (1500,1800,2000,2200) rpm will make or break it. The last run, i brake stand at 2000, lights dropped, released gas pedal, counted 1-2, then matted it. It was my first event so i had no clue, and no other automatic fbody dudes were around to throw some tips at me.
correct tire pressure (check each pass)
big burnout (get them 555R's hot!)
correct brake-stand rpm at light,
AND the right method of going to wot, be it timed, or rolling in the pedal (hard to do with such excitement ya know).
brought me from 12.9 to 12.1 on the same night. I feel with more time on the track 12.0 will be easy.
12.6 is pretty impressive with no converter, thats more like an M6 kinda ET with those mods.
good luck, keep reading up on how to launch and burnout, theres some good threads and one good website (i forget) on how to burnout properly. A linelock would really help. It kinda bothers me to be smoking the rear brakes at 4400rpm in "2" for that long. So i picked up a line lock used for $75 and will put that in. cheaper than doing brakes imo.
03-20-2004, 03:46 PM
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Deer Park, Tx
Posts: 805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When i raced this other A4 we raced from a roll....aroudn 30ish and he just pulle don me.... the only thing he had on my was Headers.....but i had a converter...... i dont understand
03-21-2004, 06:18 PM
#4
TECH Regular
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mission Tx
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i heard the 3600 isn't all that good from a roll... it's advantages are off the line with good traction... i just got my 3600 vigilante it's not in yet though... good luck working on ur launch technique... figuring by playing is the best fun you can have... lol
if you dont have bias plys or at least bfg's get some that should be your first step.
03-22-2004, 07:07 PM
#6
Drop your pressure to 18lbs and make sure you heat those nittos until you see smoke in your mirror. If the track prep is decent you should be able to get a Vig 3600 and 2.73s to hook with properly prepped nittos. If you still spin, trying stepping into the throttle and you'll still cut a 1.7x 60' and drop your ET a lot.