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Old 06-06-2012, 08:39 PM   #1
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Default how to install teflon seals (without tools)

Putting new teflon seals in my 60e and im looking to do it without the tools. Ive heard of ppl cutting up soda bottles and doing it this way. Any one got pics and step by step on how to install this way?????
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:28 AM   #2
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Cut the soda bottle to fit around the shaft. Slide the rings over the plastic and into the grooves. Once the rings are in their grooves, wrap the plastic around the rings and use hose clamps to "size" the rings.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:17 PM   #3
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How long should I let them sit?
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:02 PM   #4
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Don't put the hose clamps on too tight, just moderately snug. You can then leave them on indefinitely. You might need to snug them down so more after a few hours. The larger ones on the stator shaft will expand, within an hour or so, enough that assembly might become difficult. I have an old stator shaft to keep the input shaft ones resized at all times until final assembly.
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:26 PM   #5
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You may want to get two sets of shaft seals. Last time I tried this I needed 7 seals to get 4. Too bad the right tool is so expensive.

Dana at Probuilt set me up with step cut seals. He said they will seal well and since they are cut allo expansion and a better seal than solid rings do.

I wonder if any other pros use step or scarf cut seals.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighMileageC4 View Post
You may want to get two sets of shaft seals. Last time I tried this I needed 7 seals to get 4. Too bad the right tool is so expensive.

Dana at Probuilt set me up with step cut seals. He said they will seal well and since they are cut allo expansion and a better seal than solid rings do.

I wonder if any other pros use step or scarf cut seals.
I have seen several references NOT to use the scarf cut seals. Think about it - if they were any good why would people buy $400 in tools to install the solid seals.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:16 AM   #7
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K seals look good on mine going to stack it and air test and see what I get
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I have seen several references NOT to use the scarf cut seals. Think about it - if they were any good why would people buy $400 in tools to install the solid seals.
$400 for the ring tool? where you buying this at? I spent $90 on mine back in the early 90's then when the LS shafts came out I think I paid around $60 just for the installer I still use the same re-sizer from the first one I bought. FWIW I have never had good luck with the solid rings for the reverse input on the pump stator so I just use the old blue ones that are scarf cut and have had zero issues.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:45 PM   #9
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$400 for the ring tool? where you buying this at? I spent $90 on mine back in the early 90's then when the LS shafts came out I think I paid around $60 just for the installer I still use the same re-sizer from the first one I bought. FWIW I have never had good luck with the solid rings for the reverse input on the pump stator so I just use the old blue ones that are scarf cut and have had zero issues.
There are two installer and two resizers. Perhaps its "only" $300 for all of them, but that is still very high. I suggest having a local trans shop do it.

In the future I will say that some people have been happy with the scarf cut ones.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
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There are two installer and two resizers. Perhaps its "only" $300 for all of them, but that is still very high. I suggest having a local trans shop do it.

In the future I will say that some people have been happy with the scarf cut ones.
Let me make this clear I don't recommend the scarf cut ones for the input drum just for the reverse input drum the 2 on the stator shaft. But, you do have a good suggestion take it to a local tranny shop and ask to buy the builder a six pack of his favorite beer, they all have a favorite beer trust me.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Let me make this clear I don't recommend the scarf cut ones for the input drum just for the reverse input drum the 2 on the stator shaft. But, you do have a good suggestion take it to a local tranny shop and ask to buy the builder a six pack of his favorite beer, they all have a favorite beer trust me.
Thanks for the clarification.
With the right tools installation barely takes 5 minutes. You can then resize it yourself with the plastic from a 2L bottle and some hoseclamps.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:57 PM   #12
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I'm going to be nice here and give a little known tip.

Use electrical tape for sizing.

One wrap to stick, another tight wrap to shrink the seals.

Heat some water up and use it to soften the teflon so they are easier to install and more pliable.

You can use a soda can and hose clamps as a sizer. You can use the plastic or very carefully cut soda can as an installer too.

I have the installer and sizer for the 4L60E's.

The "L" cut sealing rings seem to work fine on the 4L60E. The solid rings can't expand to fit. The L cut rings can. I wouldn't use scarf cut at that location.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:12 PM   #13
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Jake,

I do have L cut rings. They are white and look to be the same material as solid rings.

Are you saying these should be ok to use and would work as well as solid style?

Last time
I tried solid rings it took hours and
I trashed almost a whole set. I needed 2 sets to get the job done. I used the soda can and hose clamp to size them. They overstretch very easily and do not shrink then making them hard to size.

If the L cut will work as well,it would be less headache, but
I want to di it right
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake's Performance View Post
I'm going to be nice here and give a little known tip.

Use electrical tape for sizing.

One wrap to stick, another tight wrap to shrink the seals.

Heat some water up and use it to soften the teflon so they are easier to install and more pliable.

You can use a soda can and hose clamps as a sizer. You can use the plastic or very carefully cut soda can as an installer too.

I have the installer and sizer for the 4L60E's.

The "L" cut sealing rings seem to work fine on the 4L60E. The solid rings can't expand to fit. The L cut rings can. I wouldn't use scarf cut at that location.
its funny you say that its how i did mine worked very well. wasnt gonna post it up thought you guys might think its a bit dodgy. i first slid the seals on with the plastic bottle cut. i then wrap the seals with some aluminium foil, or you will find any traces of trans fluid will start turning the electrical tape to slime leaving a slimy mess when you remove the tape. once you have the foil in place carefully make a tight wrap around each seal with some thin elec tape chasing the seals with your finger to make sure the seal hasnt popped out of its home. once sure theyre in place and held good with the thin tape, break out the thick grey tape and make carefully several wraps as tight as you can without breaking the tape, but you want it tight enough so the tape is stretching a little. now on with some hose clamps not too tight. leave for a few hours and you should have no trouble with the seals. works well for me.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighMileageC4 View Post
Jake,

I do have L cut rings. They are white and look to be the same material as solid rings.

Are you saying these should be ok to use and would work as well as solid style?

Last time
I tried solid rings it took hours and
I trashed almost a whole set. I needed 2 sets to get the job done. I used the soda can and hose clamp to size them. They overstretch very easily and do not shrink then making them hard to size.

If the L cut will work as well,it would be less headache, but
I want to di it right
Has anyone used the white L cut turbine shaft seals with success?
Even though solid are PITA, it would be no fun to redo a rebuild for five dollar seals!!
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:35 PM   #16
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Any 2nd opinions on the L cut white seals?
Hope to put 100k miles on my build.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #17
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My builder and I were given the wrong resizer and time was an issue so we did our best and used our fingers till we could gently slide the pump over them...and I mean gently. Really wish I would though of the plastic and hose clamp trick...
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:11 PM
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