abadbowtie

I kind of was thinking the same thing how to confirm it is fully seated or tips would be great.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

P.M. Sent.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

You need to check all the clutches and make sure you didn't bend them.

Look at the intermediates. Then drop the direct drum in, you can tell it's down all the way by the splines in the center of the drum and the mating splines on the tube.

Then drop forward drum in, look at splines on the mainshaft in the forward hub. Then the OD you can feel the 4 distinct drops. Look at the frictions spin with the drum.

abadbowtie

Pulled everything back out and rechecked all the way down to intermediate clutches and checked and reinstalled and everything looks good and pump went right on and know to check end play on input shaft. I assume I want to use pry bar in bottom hole of case on output to push up and then measure end play. But I also need to measure the distance with a feeler gauge between snap ring and overdrive planet to subtract that to get total end play. With dial caliber on the input shaft pulling up and pushing down on it to get .004-.022. I this is correct? I also assume in the pump in the boost valve their is two springs one small id that goes inside the other one and when you shake the pump back and forth the inner spring rattles. Is that right?

abadbowtie

I basically just need a how to to make sure I am checking input endplay correctly and here is a picture showing the inner spring I was talking about in the pump and want to make sure it is supposed to have some free play side to side.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

Yes the inner bumper spring will have some movement.
You can set the output shaft on the ground to load the rear of the unit forward.
I check the rear endplay before I ever install the intermediate clutch pack. You can lift the mainshaft and feel rear endplay. We get this set first because it affects the entire endplay.

abadbowtie

I checked output shaft play before I installed intermediate clutches also and had .007 so went ahead and assembled everything know am trying to check input shaft end play so I can set trans down on output shaft and then check input shaft play or use pry bar in 1.5" round hole in case to preload output shaft. But the .022 gap I have in between snap ring and OD assemble take into affect and does the .007 I had on the output shaft take into affect in calculation. But with a pry bar holding up on output shaft which should be same as standing transmission up on output shaft I have .031 play on input shaft pushing down and pulling up and if I subtract the snap ring clearance if that is correct of .022 then I have .009 like I should so if this is correct then I am ready to start bolting valve body on tomorrow night and finish this build up. And just to make sure I only use the 4 ***** that are blue in diagram correct.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

Load the rear, subtract the input shaft play, and be sure the front end play is greater than the rear.

Sounds like you are good by .002, I would probably put another .005" or so in the front end play.

abadbowtie

Switching to the next thinner selective washer I get .049 input play because the next washer down I have is .018 thinner. So I am not sure what to try know.

abadbowtie

Well after some more reading I guess I am going to order a h gauge and do it right.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

You don't need an H gauge. Do it however you wish but the endplay being a little loose is OK, it can't be too tight.

Fry_

I've read/ skimmed most of this thread and all I have to say is the level of customer service Jake's is giving here is amazing, I noticed at least one question was answered on a saturday at noon.

abadbowtie

Support is definitely top notch Jake is the only place to buy from for sure.

The only reason I was going to buy a h gauge is last night I cut a piece of metal and laid it ac cross in the case and measured down to the od assembly and then laid the metal ac cross selective shim and measured down to pump surface and the washer that I only had .09 that you said I was okay by .02 since I was not aware end play needed to be more than output play. I ended up getting .018 measuring this way with straight edge and checking differences.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

One thing to keep in mind. Endplay is part of the blueprinting process of the build but it's not the most critical thing in the trans. OEM tolerances are huge, we try to tighten them up but in most cases it doesn't have to be perfect and extremely tight. Like machining engine parts (or anything mechanical) you always want to err on the loose side, because too tight will certainly cause parts to fail.

Front endplay needs to be looser than rear endplay because as the drive shaft pushes the output shaft into the trans under normal operating conditions, the rear endplay gets taken up. It shouldn't be able to also close up front endplay.
There is a bearing that ultimately takes the rear endplay load, there is a nylon washer that would take the load if front endplay is less than rear.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

Another thought,
The reason why....

The reason we pay attention to endplay, and bushing tolerances, is because they affect the overall lubrication of the transmission.
Lube oil starts out as converter charge, comes out of the converter, goes to the cooler, and returns to the transmission to lube the center, which is all the bushings, thrust washers and bearings, then feed to the planetaries, and also across the clutches, then ultimately returns to the pan to start all over.

Loose endplay and worn bushings cause the lube oil to escape before it makes it to it's intended end point. Imagine an engine with low oil pressure, worn cam bearings, worn main and rods, etc.

In many cases the lube oil starts at either the front or back and has to make it the entire way to the other end of the transmission. If everything is worn, the pressure on the far end will be low. In other words, not as much lube.

abadbowtie

Well for a update I got it all figured out today and was able to finish installing everything. I have it all back together pan and all on hopefully have torque convertor later this week. I am going to pull car over on the lift and get it ready to switch later this week and try to get this all done.

abadbowtie

Well I want to say thanks to everyone especially Jake I got the everything finished tonight on the install and fired it up on the lift and shifted thru all gears and even watched on hp tuners it shift thru all gears as it picked up speed. So I hope that is a good sign. Know if it would dry up and quite raining I sure want to drive it.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Good deal. Just drove mine and looks like it has all the gears too.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

WOW! After reading through this, I think I will go this direction when it comes to ordering any kind of parts because this service is just amazing. Jakes, I have to give it to you on this one. The pure patience on top of customer service is just unheard of these days. Great job and great write up. I will be PM'ing you when I get the transmission and strart my build. Stellar job!

To the OP, congrats on the fininshed product! Can't wait to get mine all done and completed now!

RubbercitySS

Outstanding job jake! I don't think I've ever seen a owner operating a company with that level of customer service! I just figured out where my 4l80 will come from. So how's it shifting on the open road bowtie?