V8 vs. V6 4L60E?
06-10-2007, 12:45 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
the v6 has a different input shaft and a different pump stator from the ls1 and lt1 v8 units
06-10-2007, 12:50 PM
#4
well assuming you can find a shop that will do it , Shops tend to dislike adaptations of any kind, I would guess around 200 - 300 dollars if they furnish the parts.But like I said if you can get anyone to do it, That will be the hard part.
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06-10-2007, 04:45 PM
#5
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from another thread:
the V8 version also has the corvette servo stock.
Originally Posted by dknight16
Different bell housing, input shaft, stator shaft, servo asm, 1-2 accum & fwd accum spring
Also, V8 model has no 3-4 accum spring and a significantly larger torque converter
Also, V8 model has no 3-4 accum spring and a significantly larger torque converter
06-10-2007, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by My90Iroc
What would a ballpark cost to be make a v6 tranny useable for a v8?
the biggest part will be labor. Do it yourself, its pretty easy. Drain the transmission. If it has a removable bellhousing, take that off then remove the pump bolts. Flip it over and take off the pan, remove the lock up solenoid, and filter. Remove the pump. Now here is the trickiest part, pulling out the reverse input and input drums. There is an anchor pin in the case that you can only get to from under the valve body. The drums will come out with a little finesse. Now you can check the band, and check the reverse input frictions.
Go to a trans parts store or shop and see if they will sell you a v8 input drum all set up and ready to go. Here you can also buy a band, and reverse input frictions if needed. Bring the pump to the same place and have them go through it and press in the new stator support, they should replace the pump bushing, seal, o-ring and pump to case gasket.
Now that everything is ready to go, stand the trans either on its output shaft or have something so that the output shaft goes through the center and the trans is supported by the tail shaft.
Make sure you noted the correct way the selective washer and bearing were. Drop the reverse input drum on the input drum make sure it sits all the way down. You have to spline the friction plates onto the input drum.
Now the fun begins. Set the band into the case, keep the apply pin side on the apply pin and hold the anchor pin side just barely out of the case and make sure the outside of the band hugs the inside of the case. Now with one hand holding the band in place, use the other hand to drop the drum assembly in make sure you dont catch the band and tear it up. Once the reverse input drum teeth pass the band, let go of the band and vigorously turn the input shaft so that the friction plates spline inside the trans.
It will be fully seated when you can lightly pull up on the input shaft and have some play with out the reverse input moving. Now re-anchor the band, this can be a little bit of a pain but is doable. Now place your case to pump gasket on the case. Lube up the input shaft sealing rings, and the pump oring, and where it will seal in the case. Dont forget the trust washer that goes behind the pump. Set the pump in the case and line it up with the bolt holes, place two bolts in directly across from each other. Turn them half turns until the pump is fully seated, then put all bolts in and torque to 160inlbs.
replace lock up solenoid, new filter, pan gasket, and pan. Torque pan bolts to 95inlbs. And you're done.
FYI. You might need to remove the valve body if the anchor pin gives you any trouble. Keep things clean and use lint free rags or towels when necessary.
