ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Last night about two blocks from house I left the stoplight and noticed I was barely moving, but my RPMs were going up. I thought great, my tranny is slipping. At the next light it was even worse. I barely moved in drive and the RPMs revved pretty high. When I got home I had a tough time making it up my short driveway into the garage. I am thinking that my 4L60E is toast. I checked the fluid and it looked and smelled fine. Is it possible my Fuddle converter is shot and not my tranny? I do have a B&M tranny cooler.

I did add a nitrous kit recently which I know means instant death to a stock 4L60E. But I have not sprayed in a couple of weeks and the car has been shifting great up until last night. I have been babying the car for the past couple of weeks.

My car is pretty much stock except for the converter, lid, and nitrous. I have been spraying a 125 shot that it was tuned for. The car has 99k on the clock. The tranny is completely stock and has never been rebuilt. The Fuddle is about 2 years old with about 30,000 miles on it.

Should I be looking for a new tranny or should I send back my converter? How can I find out which is bad without pulling the tranny? THANKS.

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

?can the car move putting it in any other gear? pull the trans line and turn the engine over and see if the pump is working. sprag maybe?

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Well I just took the car out this morning after letting it sit all night and it shifts great until it gets warmed up (after about 15 minutes of driving) and then it slips. It does the same thing in drive and OD. I will try 1 and 2 and let you know if those slip too.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I just took it for another test drive after letting the car sit for 2 minutes. It is really weird. It seems like the slipping comes and goes. It seems to only slip when leaving from a dead stop and it then will slip in all gears 1, 2, D and OD. For instance it started slipping so I got up to about 25 MPH and dropped it into 1 to see if the RPMs would change. It acted exactly the same in all gears when it was slipping and driving about 25 MPH. The issue went away after driving a little more.

At this point I am not sure what to do. I am thinking maybe I will change the tranny fluid this morning to see if that helps even though the fluid only has about 10k on it. Any ideas? THANKS.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Are you sure itsactually changing gears and not just staying in one gear like third when it does this. Being intermitant it kinda sounds like limp mode/ Are you getting a check engine light

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure if it is actually changing gears or not. How can I tell for sure?

I am not getting check engine lights. Should I still have it scanned for codes at Autozone? Or will it not be throwing any codes if that light is off? THANKS.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

I'd have is scanned, I've thrown a few trouble codes in HPTuners before without getting an SES light.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

In limp mode will the tranny actually slip like crazy and barely make it up a short incline? Thanks.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

It only appears to be slipping its actually stating in 3rd gear which particulary with a stall will make the car feel like its slipping o working really hard to move, A good quick test is to try reverse see if it feels normal if it does you are probably in limp mode and getting it scanned is the best first move.

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ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

It does feel normal in reverse. I will get it scanned tonight and let you know.

GMRACER13

iTrader: (1)

Lock-up clutch probably came apart and is clogging the filter. When it sits all the debris from the damaged clutch settles to the bottom of the pan and it will drive for a little while untill it sucks it all back up and clogs the filter again.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

What would cause that and how can it be fixed? Thanks.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

So in that case if I drop the pan I should see pieces of the lock-up clutch?

If this is the case can this issue then be resolved with a new converter and changing the tranny fluid and filter? THANKS.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

No if this is the case the lube circut through the input shaft and valve body will likley be contaminated with debris.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

How can I tell if it is indeed the lockup clutch? Will there be visible debris on the bottom of the pan? THANKS.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

If my lock-up clutch came apart why does it still lock and unlock fine? I'm not being a d*&k, I am just trying to educate myself. THANKS.

1jfuddle

iTrader: (7)

If the clutch did come apart, it will not lock at all. It will kinda bounce up and down in the rpms wildly and never really come close to locking. If you want to check the clutch, it is pretty easy. Get under the car and pull off the little 3 inch tab under the bell housing. It will expose the converter. Look at the converter on the side that bolts to the flexplate. If it is still blue, your clutch is fine. If it has blackened, the clutch is gone. That is a big part of why converter companies paint their converters. It becomes an easy diagnostic tool without pulling the converter.
All of that aside, what you are describing has nothing to do with the converter. If the converter had failed and were stalling abnormally high, it would happen in reverse too. If the clutch were gone, you would certainly know it.
If it does turn out that there is a transmission problem, make sure to send the converter to us for a refresh anyway. It is free under warranty, it will keep contaminates out of the new transmission, and everything that has wear will be replaced at no cost.
Good luck!

BubaGumpShrimp

iTrader: (1)

my best guess is your setting off limp mode and forces you to start off in 3rd gear.. Simple way to verify it is to drive the car a bit untill it starts acting funny/slipping fealing. Pull over and shut the car off for a min or two. Start it up and drive the car, if it shifts fine for a little while then starts slipping you can pull over again to shut the car off, then start it up 2 min later and see if it shifts fine. If it does my bet would be code p0757 or something close to that ex p0752, depends on the year of your car as to what the code would be but basically its would say shift selionoid (sp?) failure and would cause the car to go into limp mode. You can try and reprogram the pcm and have that code shut off and go for a ride. If it drive fine after that your good to go. If it still slips and you have one of thoes codes the selionoid is probably bad (about a 25 dollar part easy to change)

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

As I said earlier I dont think you have a converter issue I think you have a control issue and are simply going into limp mode.

ARCTICWHITE98Z28

iTrader: (1)

Well I went to Autozone and had it scanned. It didn't show any codes at all. On the way home from Autozone it had the problem again. I was at a stop sign and the car was in OD. It just revved and wouldn't go. I dropped it into 2 and it went.

Right now I am resetting the PCM anyway to see if it helps. Any other things I should check or do? I am wondering if I should pull the pan off and change the fluid and filter even though it only has about 10-15k on it. THANKS.