A little about PerformaBuilt Transmissions
03-19-2008, 08:41 PM
#1
A little about PerformaBuilt Transmissions A little about PerformaBuilt transmissions FYI
These are just a few of the things used in the level 1 build
1-Shown 1st and 2nd pictures are the rear and front planets. The planet clearance is allowed by GM up to .025 we never use a planet with excess of .020 clearance on the pinions.
2-Next shown is the new low/reverse clutch set. All frictions are replaced with new.
3-The 4th picture shown is the new low/reverse steel plates ,only on in manual low and reverse.
4-The 5th picture shown is a device called a case saver. It replaces the stock anti clunk spring and more evenly distributes shock against the case lugs. This helps to prevent excessive lug wear in the case or breakage of the case or lugs. May cause a clunk feel on the N or OD engagement or 2-3 but worth the price.
5-The 6th picture shown are the forward frictions these are the borg warner type. They are only used in our level 1. They are and excellent clutch but we use something stronger Composite in our levels 2 and 3.
6-The 7th picture shown is of the new forward clutch steels Notice on all steels the finish is not real slick rather its just a little rough, This is to allow some oil to remain trapped between the frictions and the steels for cooling.
7-8th picture is of the high energy frictions used in the 3-4 clutch in this level, We install 9 of them stock is six or seven depending on model years 7004r-4l65e. The levels 2 and 3 get a different clutch set.
8-The 9th picture is of new reverse input frictions again frictions are never reused in any of our units.
9-The 10th picture is of the red wide band we use it has proven itself and impressive piece and is used in both our levels 1 and 2.
10-11th pic is of the new pump stator Its very important this piece be in good shape for those rebuilding transmissions themselves there is a commonly missed problem with these. Always feel around carefully where the Teflon rings from the input shaft ride inside this tube as any wear there or even small grooves will result in premature failure of one or more of the clutch sets in the input drum.
11-The Precision seal kit we use is shown in the 12th picture. All seals are replaced in every unit.
12-13 and 14 are two of the steel pistons we use in place of the aluminum pistons that come stock in many units. Very late units already have these. They are replaced in every unit.
13-15 is a pictures of the pump vanes these are replaced in every unit along with many of the other parts in the pump. I didn’t have pictures of.
14-Picture 16 is of a new corvette servo used in our level 1 (Stock in F bodies and GTOs) Our levels 2 and 3 use upgraded servos.
15- This picture # 17 is a picture of the bushings and some of the accum servos we replace in every unit.
16-#18 is a picture of a Borg Warner dual cage input sprag standard on all our build levels.
17-#19 is a picture of one of the new style wiring harnesses we use with late models. There’s a nice improvement done to the plug for the PCS eliminating loose connection problems associated with the previous design.
18-#20 is a picture of the beast sun shell the sun gear installed. The beast is not used with the level-1 but is with the levels-2 and 3. The level 1 gets a new hardened late GM style sun shell which though not as strong as the beast it a nice piece. Didn’t have a picture of it.
Anyway these are just a few of the things that go into our level one at lease things I have pictures of. All friction areas are always replaced never reused. All seals and steel molded pistons and new. Along with many other things I have not gone into. The level 1 has surprised us several times as a number of people have bought it and then later exceeded the max rating we placed on it and they are still going strong.
click here for website level 1
These are just a few of the things used in the level 1 build
1-Shown 1st and 2nd pictures are the rear and front planets. The planet clearance is allowed by GM up to .025 we never use a planet with excess of .020 clearance on the pinions.
2-Next shown is the new low/reverse clutch set. All frictions are replaced with new.
3-The 4th picture shown is the new low/reverse steel plates ,only on in manual low and reverse.
4-The 5th picture shown is a device called a case saver. It replaces the stock anti clunk spring and more evenly distributes shock against the case lugs. This helps to prevent excessive lug wear in the case or breakage of the case or lugs. May cause a clunk feel on the N or OD engagement or 2-3 but worth the price.
5-The 6th picture shown are the forward frictions these are the borg warner type. They are only used in our level 1. They are and excellent clutch but we use something stronger Composite in our levels 2 and 3.
6-The 7th picture shown is of the new forward clutch steels Notice on all steels the finish is not real slick rather its just a little rough, This is to allow some oil to remain trapped between the frictions and the steels for cooling.
7-8th picture is of the high energy frictions used in the 3-4 clutch in this level, We install 9 of them stock is six or seven depending on model years 7004r-4l65e. The levels 2 and 3 get a different clutch set.
8-The 9th picture is of new reverse input frictions again frictions are never reused in any of our units.
9-The 10th picture is of the red wide band we use it has proven itself and impressive piece and is used in both our levels 1 and 2.
10-11th pic is of the new pump stator Its very important this piece be in good shape for those rebuilding transmissions themselves there is a commonly missed problem with these. Always feel around carefully where the Teflon rings from the input shaft ride inside this tube as any wear there or even small grooves will result in premature failure of one or more of the clutch sets in the input drum.
11-The Precision seal kit we use is shown in the 12th picture. All seals are replaced in every unit.
12-13 and 14 are two of the steel pistons we use in place of the aluminum pistons that come stock in many units. Very late units already have these. They are replaced in every unit.
13-15 is a pictures of the pump vanes these are replaced in every unit along with many of the other parts in the pump. I didn’t have pictures of.
14-Picture 16 is of a new corvette servo used in our level 1 (Stock in F bodies and GTOs) Our levels 2 and 3 use upgraded servos.
15- This picture # 17 is a picture of the bushings and some of the accum servos we replace in every unit.
16-#18 is a picture of a Borg Warner dual cage input sprag standard on all our build levels.
17-#19 is a picture of one of the new style wiring harnesses we use with late models. There’s a nice improvement done to the plug for the PCS eliminating loose connection problems associated with the previous design.
18-#20 is a picture of the beast sun shell the sun gear installed. The beast is not used with the level-1 but is with the levels-2 and 3. The level 1 gets a new hardened late GM style sun shell which though not as strong as the beast it a nice piece. Didn’t have a picture of it.
Anyway these are just a few of the things that go into our level one at lease things I have pictures of. All friction areas are always replaced never reused. All seals and steel molded pistons and new. Along with many other things I have not gone into. The level 1 has surprised us several times as a number of people have bought it and then later exceeded the max rating we placed on it and they are still going strong.
click here for website level 1
__________________
Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 03:55 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:43 PM
#2
PerformaBuilt Level 2 information. Whats in there? Level 2 information
1-The planets , These are carefully inspected pinion to side clearance must be less than .020 max allowed GM clearance is .025 they are also inspected for any signs of stress or wear and if do not meet our minimum standards are replaced.
The LOW/REVERSE friction we use are the same in all Levels High quality Borg warner or Raybestos. These frictions are only applied in manual low 1 and reverse and are never on in any other gear position. Or during any automatic shift. I have noted that some people think these clutches are the first gear clutches. In fact there are no first gear clutches, Actual first gear is created when the low/roller sprag holds and the forward clutch is on. This set only acts to provide the engine overun braking effect in manual low. However having the car in manual low on a hard launch can be beneficial as this set being on does help to support the low roller clutch just as the Overun clutch set can also help support the Input sprag as it is also on in manual Low 1. Just a little FYI. Launching in manual low can be good to help strengthen these two areas of the trans.
Next the center support/Low roller clutch is inspected and a new roller/spring assembly install. I didnt have any pictures of this. But do have a picture of the case saver used in all levels. We use this in place of the anti clunk spring to help protect the case from damage from the very aggressive shift of the center support that can occur during a hard launch. This piece eliminates case damage caused by the metal support slamming into the case by distributing the force more evenly.
Next in the level 2 we install the Beast sun shell along with sun gear which contains a new bushing and improvements to increase lube to the rear planet.We have to date never seen a beast shell strip or break. This is and extremely strong piece and needs to be since it takes the full force of the engine on the second,fourth and reverse gears.
Next the input drum we remove the input shaft from the and inspect both the shaft and the drum for wear/cracks or any other damage.Reinstall the shaft into the drum and install new Teflon rings on the shaft. We then install new steel molded steel pistons into the drum these are preferred to the aluminum pistons that are prone to crack and cause failure. Along with these we install new return spring cages and snap ring to hold it all in place. I did not have pictures of all of this. But here ae a couple I did have of the steel pistons.
We then install new overun frictions, The lube seal and The new Borg Warner dual cage sprag. We the install the forward frictions this is where our level 2 starts to differ from the level 1. Rather than using the paper grooved frictions like we do in the level 1 we opt to use the smoother composite frictions here. The plus side is tighter grip, better heat durability and more surface area in this clutch pack which must hold all the engines power through all the forward gears except 4th.The only downside we have found is a slightly firmer engagement into drive from reverse,neutral or park. Of course with a high stall converter this is not noticable at all.
Now again different from the level 1 we use the ZPack by Raybestos we have had excellent results with these. I have seen situation where there was a presure issue Such as low fluid level or PCS failure where these clutches became really hot from slipping under those conditions and yet on tear down though you could certainly tell they got really hot they were nearly still in good enough shape to reuse, I was impressed. Of course we wouldn't reuse them it was just very nice to see how well they had endured. I have seen OEM frictions and some after markets that have been through the same thing and the friction material usually paper be completely gone, Burned away.We set a minimum clearance for this set and then reinstall the square helper springs into the drum. The purpose in these is not well understood by many. But they prevent centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at High RPM this happens when fluid cannot escape from the 3-4 clutch chamber fast enough and it literally climbs the walls of the drum and applies the 3-4 clutch piston partially causing over a period of Hi RPM runs to eventually cause the 3-4 clutch to burn or wear excessivley.
Heres a short video from Raybestos about this design
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/mov/zpak.wmv
Now we inspect the reverse input drum replacing bushings and measuring the run out across the 2-4 band apply surface. MAX run out when using the Wide band can be no more than .005 from edge to edge. If it is more than this the drum must be replaced and we end up doing that quite often. In either case the drum is resurfaced with the appropriate finish and a light crosshatch for the band. The new Seals and A new friction set is installed. The drum is then placed on the input drum and the assembly installed. At this time we temporarily install the pump and set input shaft end play to as close to min spec as possible with the assorted selective washers used on top of the input drum. Don't have alot of pictures yet for this. Heres a picture of the reverse input frictions.
The Wide Redlined band is installed the same one used in the level 1 as its plenty durable with reinforced band lug area we have never seen one tear through or break.Now this again is where things start to change from the level 1 We now use and install the fairbanks one piece billet servo. This servo has the largest apply area of any servo possible. Its a very simple billet aluminum cut and very durable. It also have the added benefit of reducing 3-4 clutch accumulation. It does not completely eliminate it however since a much heavier return spring is used between it and the case. So the 3-4 clutch oil must still fill the chamber to release the band. Band clearance is checked and adjusted as needed. We then use the SONNAX dual piston super hold servo for 4th gear. Between it, The wide band and the Zpack holding WOT ,shifts to 4th should never be a problem.The band clearance must be checked for both the second and fourth servos as one could be fine and the other be excessive, We do not suggest using the Fairbanks billet servo with any stock band as the band lugs are not strong enough and this will result in band lug tearing through the eye causing loss of second and fourth gears. For upgrades to the stock trans stick with the corvette or sonnax second gear servo.
We now assemble the pump with new bushings and Vanes all clearances are carefully checked and the necessary actions taken where needed to assure the pump is straight and clean. And questionable part is replaced without exception and a large boost valve installed.Along with mods for increased lubrication cooling and converter charge. All seals again are new. The stator is removed and changed as needed. Many end up being changed. A common mistake in a build is not checking the inside of the tube where the input shaft Teflon rings ride and grove or wear here will cause premature failure of the frictions in the Input drum. If theres any wear here grooves etc at all the stator tube must be replaced. Again dont have pictures of this as I had no idea I was going to write this till now.So just using what I do have.
The valve body is the disassembled and inspected. Solenoids replaced. Our own shift kit installed it provides nice part throttle shifts reasonable but firm and as throttle is increased the shift become progressively firmer. We use new accumulator pistons and we do not restrict 1-2 accumulator as the Billet servo has plenty adequate force and hold to provide a positive 1-2 shift. And helps considerably with the 2-3 shift with nether being too aggressive. The valve body plate is inspected, If it is bent holes warn or inferior in anyway it is replaced with a new one.Its a pretty simple call they are either perfect or they are not. Many of our cores are 03 up so we get quite a few good ones,
The wiring harness again is carfully inspected and new oring installed and these are only reused when is absolutly perfect condition again its a simple call its either perfect or bad. If its bad a new one is installed
1-The planets , These are carefully inspected pinion to side clearance must be less than .020 max allowed GM clearance is .025 they are also inspected for any signs of stress or wear and if do not meet our minimum standards are replaced.
The LOW/REVERSE friction we use are the same in all Levels High quality Borg warner or Raybestos. These frictions are only applied in manual low 1 and reverse and are never on in any other gear position. Or during any automatic shift. I have noted that some people think these clutches are the first gear clutches. In fact there are no first gear clutches, Actual first gear is created when the low/roller sprag holds and the forward clutch is on. This set only acts to provide the engine overun braking effect in manual low. However having the car in manual low on a hard launch can be beneficial as this set being on does help to support the low roller clutch just as the Overun clutch set can also help support the Input sprag as it is also on in manual Low 1. Just a little FYI. Launching in manual low can be good to help strengthen these two areas of the trans.
Next the center support/Low roller clutch is inspected and a new roller/spring assembly install. I didnt have any pictures of this. But do have a picture of the case saver used in all levels. We use this in place of the anti clunk spring to help protect the case from damage from the very aggressive shift of the center support that can occur during a hard launch. This piece eliminates case damage caused by the metal support slamming into the case by distributing the force more evenly.
Next in the level 2 we install the Beast sun shell along with sun gear which contains a new bushing and improvements to increase lube to the rear planet.We have to date never seen a beast shell strip or break. This is and extremely strong piece and needs to be since it takes the full force of the engine on the second,fourth and reverse gears.
Next the input drum we remove the input shaft from the and inspect both the shaft and the drum for wear/cracks or any other damage.Reinstall the shaft into the drum and install new Teflon rings on the shaft. We then install new steel molded steel pistons into the drum these are preferred to the aluminum pistons that are prone to crack and cause failure. Along with these we install new return spring cages and snap ring to hold it all in place. I did not have pictures of all of this. But here ae a couple I did have of the steel pistons.
We then install new overun frictions, The lube seal and The new Borg Warner dual cage sprag. We the install the forward frictions this is where our level 2 starts to differ from the level 1. Rather than using the paper grooved frictions like we do in the level 1 we opt to use the smoother composite frictions here. The plus side is tighter grip, better heat durability and more surface area in this clutch pack which must hold all the engines power through all the forward gears except 4th.The only downside we have found is a slightly firmer engagement into drive from reverse,neutral or park. Of course with a high stall converter this is not noticable at all.
Now again different from the level 1 we use the ZPack by Raybestos we have had excellent results with these. I have seen situation where there was a presure issue Such as low fluid level or PCS failure where these clutches became really hot from slipping under those conditions and yet on tear down though you could certainly tell they got really hot they were nearly still in good enough shape to reuse, I was impressed. Of course we wouldn't reuse them it was just very nice to see how well they had endured. I have seen OEM frictions and some after markets that have been through the same thing and the friction material usually paper be completely gone, Burned away.We set a minimum clearance for this set and then reinstall the square helper springs into the drum. The purpose in these is not well understood by many. But they prevent centrifugal apply of the 3-4 clutch at High RPM this happens when fluid cannot escape from the 3-4 clutch chamber fast enough and it literally climbs the walls of the drum and applies the 3-4 clutch piston partially causing over a period of Hi RPM runs to eventually cause the 3-4 clutch to burn or wear excessivley.
Heres a short video from Raybestos about this design
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/mov/zpak.wmv
Now we inspect the reverse input drum replacing bushings and measuring the run out across the 2-4 band apply surface. MAX run out when using the Wide band can be no more than .005 from edge to edge. If it is more than this the drum must be replaced and we end up doing that quite often. In either case the drum is resurfaced with the appropriate finish and a light crosshatch for the band. The new Seals and A new friction set is installed. The drum is then placed on the input drum and the assembly installed. At this time we temporarily install the pump and set input shaft end play to as close to min spec as possible with the assorted selective washers used on top of the input drum. Don't have alot of pictures yet for this. Heres a picture of the reverse input frictions.
The Wide Redlined band is installed the same one used in the level 1 as its plenty durable with reinforced band lug area we have never seen one tear through or break.Now this again is where things start to change from the level 1 We now use and install the fairbanks one piece billet servo. This servo has the largest apply area of any servo possible. Its a very simple billet aluminum cut and very durable. It also have the added benefit of reducing 3-4 clutch accumulation. It does not completely eliminate it however since a much heavier return spring is used between it and the case. So the 3-4 clutch oil must still fill the chamber to release the band. Band clearance is checked and adjusted as needed. We then use the SONNAX dual piston super hold servo for 4th gear. Between it, The wide band and the Zpack holding WOT ,shifts to 4th should never be a problem.The band clearance must be checked for both the second and fourth servos as one could be fine and the other be excessive, We do not suggest using the Fairbanks billet servo with any stock band as the band lugs are not strong enough and this will result in band lug tearing through the eye causing loss of second and fourth gears. For upgrades to the stock trans stick with the corvette or sonnax second gear servo.
We now assemble the pump with new bushings and Vanes all clearances are carefully checked and the necessary actions taken where needed to assure the pump is straight and clean. And questionable part is replaced without exception and a large boost valve installed.Along with mods for increased lubrication cooling and converter charge. All seals again are new. The stator is removed and changed as needed. Many end up being changed. A common mistake in a build is not checking the inside of the tube where the input shaft Teflon rings ride and grove or wear here will cause premature failure of the frictions in the Input drum. If theres any wear here grooves etc at all the stator tube must be replaced. Again dont have pictures of this as I had no idea I was going to write this till now.So just using what I do have.
The valve body is the disassembled and inspected. Solenoids replaced. Our own shift kit installed it provides nice part throttle shifts reasonable but firm and as throttle is increased the shift become progressively firmer. We use new accumulator pistons and we do not restrict 1-2 accumulator as the Billet servo has plenty adequate force and hold to provide a positive 1-2 shift. And helps considerably with the 2-3 shift with nether being too aggressive. The valve body plate is inspected, If it is bent holes warn or inferior in anyway it is replaced with a new one.Its a pretty simple call they are either perfect or they are not. Many of our cores are 03 up so we get quite a few good ones,
The wiring harness again is carfully inspected and new oring installed and these are only reused when is absolutly perfect condition again its a simple call its either perfect or bad. If its bad a new one is installed
__________________
Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 04:00 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:47 PM
#3
PerformaBuilt HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSIONS. Whats in there? Heavy Duty And 4x4 Transmission Builds For Working Trucks And Cars
LINK TO THE HEAVY AND ROCKS CRAWLERS CLICK HERE
The Heavy duty series of our transmissions are similar in many ways to the Level 2 PRO RACE trans. Though they do not have the more performance oriented shift characteristics associated with it.
i this unit the case is prepared like the other level and new case bushing installed. We then as with the level 2 install the 4 pinion planets carefully inspected and tolerance checked.
Now high quality LOW/REVERSE frictions are installed just like in the levels 2 and 3 However where in the case of performance transmissions this is not really a critical clutch set. it is in this unit because it may be called on regularly to back up heavy loads.
Then a new low roller sprag is installed as with the other units along with the beast sun shell again like the level 2 and 3 along with a case saver to replace the anti clunk spring possibly even more important again in these units since they are more likely to feel stress against the case more often than a performance unit
Now some things start to differ from the level 2 in this unit we use the grooved frictions in the forward clutch since there may be instances where these frictions are subject to low pressure low throttle extreme loads and the grooves do allow for better cooling in these situations where some clutch slippage is likley to occur and they have a somewhat less aggressive apply.
The Borg warner 29 element dual cage sprag is also used in this unit like our levels 1- 2 and 3 along with the steel molded pistons. The aluminum are known to crack in high stress situations.
The next thing is the 3-4 clutch here we opt for the ALTO commercial heavy duty clutch set. While not intended for performance (some people do use them for that and they do seem to do quite well) We use the 9 friction set it comes as and assembly and from our experience performs quite well in this application. In fact we have not to date seen a single 3-4 clutc failure when this trans was used in heavy duty use. But of course this is and entirely different type of stress than would be seen in a performance application.
Now like the levels 1 and 2 the wide red lined band is used in this unit,The difference being here we do not use the billet servo but instead opt for the corvette servo which is and upgrade for most trucks yet maintains a reasonable shift quality desired in this type application. Additionally we install the SONNAX super hold fourth servo which we also use in our levels 2 and 3 however its likely more needed here since the vehicles mostly trucks these are installed in are often used to TOW in overdrive.
The stator is inspected and replaced as needed. The pump is always conditioned and the vanes replaced. A boost valve appropriate for this application is installed it is not the larger one like used in our Performance units as this would make shifts too aggressive for this application.
The Pump bushing is replaced and the TCC valve is modified to deliver and more positive TCC engagement.
The valve body is prepared all the ACCUM pistons like our other units are replaced with new ones. Accumulation is not limited in anyway . Another difference here from the other units is the feeds for the various clutches are made smaller than in our performance unit to reduce shift shock not desirable with this unit. wiring harness inspected and replaced as needed,
The unit is then finished assembled and sent to the tester.
Note in all units all seals are replaced regardless.
This is just a brief description of all we do since much other than parts is covered in previous post hope you enjoyed. I think the level 3 is going to be next.
Another unique aspect of this unit is all Heavy haulers and rocks crawlers come with a heavy duty clutch low stall converter.
Would this unit be up to a high performance task? Certainly its a good compromise between the levels 1 and 2 where drive ability in the way of comfort is still a major concern.
These units are where several of us have our roots from. High HP 4x4 mud trucks hey if you have ever been to NEPA you would understand.
LINK TO THE HEAVY AND ROCKS CRAWLERS CLICK HERE
The Heavy duty series of our transmissions are similar in many ways to the Level 2 PRO RACE trans. Though they do not have the more performance oriented shift characteristics associated with it.
i this unit the case is prepared like the other level and new case bushing installed. We then as with the level 2 install the 4 pinion planets carefully inspected and tolerance checked.
Now high quality LOW/REVERSE frictions are installed just like in the levels 2 and 3 However where in the case of performance transmissions this is not really a critical clutch set. it is in this unit because it may be called on regularly to back up heavy loads.
Then a new low roller sprag is installed as with the other units along with the beast sun shell again like the level 2 and 3 along with a case saver to replace the anti clunk spring possibly even more important again in these units since they are more likely to feel stress against the case more often than a performance unit
Now some things start to differ from the level 2 in this unit we use the grooved frictions in the forward clutch since there may be instances where these frictions are subject to low pressure low throttle extreme loads and the grooves do allow for better cooling in these situations where some clutch slippage is likley to occur and they have a somewhat less aggressive apply.
The Borg warner 29 element dual cage sprag is also used in this unit like our levels 1- 2 and 3 along with the steel molded pistons. The aluminum are known to crack in high stress situations.
The next thing is the 3-4 clutch here we opt for the ALTO commercial heavy duty clutch set. While not intended for performance (some people do use them for that and they do seem to do quite well) We use the 9 friction set it comes as and assembly and from our experience performs quite well in this application. In fact we have not to date seen a single 3-4 clutc failure when this trans was used in heavy duty use. But of course this is and entirely different type of stress than would be seen in a performance application.
Now like the levels 1 and 2 the wide red lined band is used in this unit,The difference being here we do not use the billet servo but instead opt for the corvette servo which is and upgrade for most trucks yet maintains a reasonable shift quality desired in this type application. Additionally we install the SONNAX super hold fourth servo which we also use in our levels 2 and 3 however its likely more needed here since the vehicles mostly trucks these are installed in are often used to TOW in overdrive.
The stator is inspected and replaced as needed. The pump is always conditioned and the vanes replaced. A boost valve appropriate for this application is installed it is not the larger one like used in our Performance units as this would make shifts too aggressive for this application.
The Pump bushing is replaced and the TCC valve is modified to deliver and more positive TCC engagement.
The valve body is prepared all the ACCUM pistons like our other units are replaced with new ones. Accumulation is not limited in anyway . Another difference here from the other units is the feeds for the various clutches are made smaller than in our performance unit to reduce shift shock not desirable with this unit. wiring harness inspected and replaced as needed,
The unit is then finished assembled and sent to the tester.
Note in all units all seals are replaced regardless.
This is just a brief description of all we do since much other than parts is covered in previous post hope you enjoyed. I think the level 3 is going to be next.
Another unique aspect of this unit is all Heavy haulers and rocks crawlers come with a heavy duty clutch low stall converter.
Would this unit be up to a high performance task? Certainly its a good compromise between the levels 1 and 2 where drive ability in the way of comfort is still a major concern.
These units are where several of us have our roots from. High HP 4x4 mud trucks hey if you have ever been to NEPA you would understand.
__________________
Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 04:04 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:48 PM
#4
The PerformaBuilt LEVEL 3 4L60E. Whats in there? Our Level 3 build
The level 3 is our strongest offering for the 4L60E at present.
Its unique from the other builds in several ways.
1- The case is prepared cleaned and painted with a tough epoxy Paint.All mating surfaces flat sanded and the polished with scotch brite. New rear case bushing installed. Reverse piston inspected new seals install and then it is placed into the case. Now the rear planet assembly is installed and this is also where the Lever three is unique from the other levels. For this unit we use GM OEM 5 PINION PLANETS. These planets run average $150 each. These planets are installed into the unit.The planet on the right is the rear planetary.
Once this planet is installed we then install new Borg warner or raybestos Low reverse clutches these are not holding clutches for anything other than reverse and in manual low they help to support the Low roller clutch.
The low frictions are on the left and the steel presure plates on the right.
Now we inspect the low roller support and install a new low roller clutch assembly. We then install a case saver support like the other units to help prevent damage to the case during hard launches and the Low support and roller assembly is installed.
The sun gear now has a new bushing installed and is specially modified through the creation of 4 slots. These slots are at the bottom of the gear and ride against the bearing race in the rear planet. The reason for this is to improve lube to the rear planet by allowing oil to more easily escape between the bearing and the planet to improve lubrication, This is actually done in all our units however with the LEVEL 3 and the 5 pinion planets its even more important, Event though the 5 pin planet has more pinion area which is presumed to increase there torque handling capability. However you also have more metal to metal contact on the pinions do to the added area so they need more oil to keep them cool and lubricated. I do not have a picture showing this. Now the new Beast sun shell (To date we have never seen a failure here) is installed onto the sun gear and its placed into the transmission.
Now a new thrust washer is installed and the Front Five pinion planet assembly installed again not the cheap after market type. at this time the output shaft is installed after having been carefully inspected and having pressurize solvent sent though th lube channels to assure they are clear. Many people miss this or don't note that oil flows at every port in the shaft this is very important. A new output shaft retainer clip is installed these should always be replaced and never reused. The front sun gear is now prepared like the low sun gear specially slotted and installed into the front planet. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the output shaft or the front sun gears as while I did take the photos they came out very blurry for some reason. I will take them again and add later. The planet on the left is of a front 5 pinion planet.
Next we tackle the input drum again several things here are different from the other units. First as with all the units we press out the input shaft and carefully inspect the Inside spines in the drum for any signs of wear or stress or even that the shaft comes out to easily. It must be a tight fit. We then replace this shaft with a hardened shaft and use Red loctite to assure it does not move. Now we begin the assemble of the drum. We do not use the sleeve inside the drum anymore. At one time we did, This was not changed as a cost cutting factor since the sleeve is quite cheap and easy to install. But rather as a matter of choice. Heres why. In my entire history I have only seen two of these shafts spin in the Input drum And in each case the drum was obviously worn and the shaft had had a loose fit. We have seen 0 of these type failures in any level of performabuilt unit. The problem we have run into however has to do with the aluminum apply pistons that must be used when using the metal sleeve. These pistons are well know to crack even in stock applications with much lower line pressure and stress levels and we have seen this happen even in PerformaBuilt units when we were using the sleeve. The fix for this is to use the steel pistons with the molded seals like we use in all our units however these are completely incompatible with the sleeve input drum, They simply will not fit. You may ask why not only use the aluminum overun piston since its the only one that must clear the sleeve. The problem with this is that the inside diameter of the molded forward piston it must seal to is slightly larger and while you can assemble it this way you cannot get a good seal between the overun piston and the forward piston and it will leak. Now in OD position this would not matter However in the all the lower positions manual 1-2-D this would cause leakage of pressure and eventual failure of the overun clutch set Since it is on then. So since we have seen no failures of the input drum from not having the sleeve but we have seen failures of the aluminum pistons it was decided that the greater risk of failure was to be found there, So we opted to use the steel apply pistons instead of the sleeve in the drum.
Below are two of the steel pistons. In most stock applications except very late models these would be aluminum with removable seals. These are all (3-4)(forward) and (overun) pistons replaced new in every unit.
Install new raybestos overun frictions. The lube seal is replaced. Is the brownish seal shown in bottom of the pictue on the left, The picture on the right is of the precision Seal/overhaul kit we use.
We then prepare and inspect the inner and outer sprag race and install a new Borg Warner dual cage sprag assembly. The we install this into the drum and install the new composite high energy forward clutch frictions and steels.Shown are the forward frictions, The forward clutch steels and at the bottom a borg warner dual cage sprag.
Now comes the 3-4 clutch here again things are a little different. In the level 1you may have noted we use the high energy type frictions and in the Level 2 the Zpack. In the level three we choose to use the raybestos blue plate frictions count of 8 These frictions are true performance frictions and quite expensive comparatively. Averaging 10 dollars each in the set making them considerable more expensive than the frictions used in the other levels. We have found they have excellent energy absorption and friction characteristics. And have excellent wear characteristics. You can read more about them by clicking the picture of them below. These frictions are installed and set to our own race clearance. The proper performance clearance in this set is very important in the 4L60E with any clutch set too loose and you risk breaking the lugs from the drum where the retaining ring for the 3-4 clutch rides. To tight and you risk burning from excessive drag with the set is not applied.
Bellow you will see pictured are the Raybestos blue plate 3-4 clutch set, These are used with stock steels as this is what raybestos suggest rather than the koleens that are used with some other clutch sets. Please click the picture to learn more about this set.
This set has now been upgraded replaced with the RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 clutch set for a slightly improved shift feel less clunky but with greater energy absorption. I will post link and pictures of this set soon.
The level 3 is our strongest offering for the 4L60E at present.
Its unique from the other builds in several ways.
1- The case is prepared cleaned and painted with a tough epoxy Paint.All mating surfaces flat sanded and the polished with scotch brite. New rear case bushing installed. Reverse piston inspected new seals install and then it is placed into the case. Now the rear planet assembly is installed and this is also where the Lever three is unique from the other levels. For this unit we use GM OEM 5 PINION PLANETS. These planets run average $150 each. These planets are installed into the unit.The planet on the right is the rear planetary.
Once this planet is installed we then install new Borg warner or raybestos Low reverse clutches these are not holding clutches for anything other than reverse and in manual low they help to support the Low roller clutch.
The low frictions are on the left and the steel presure plates on the right.
Now we inspect the low roller support and install a new low roller clutch assembly. We then install a case saver support like the other units to help prevent damage to the case during hard launches and the Low support and roller assembly is installed.
The sun gear now has a new bushing installed and is specially modified through the creation of 4 slots. These slots are at the bottom of the gear and ride against the bearing race in the rear planet. The reason for this is to improve lube to the rear planet by allowing oil to more easily escape between the bearing and the planet to improve lubrication, This is actually done in all our units however with the LEVEL 3 and the 5 pinion planets its even more important, Event though the 5 pin planet has more pinion area which is presumed to increase there torque handling capability. However you also have more metal to metal contact on the pinions do to the added area so they need more oil to keep them cool and lubricated. I do not have a picture showing this. Now the new Beast sun shell (To date we have never seen a failure here) is installed onto the sun gear and its placed into the transmission.
Now a new thrust washer is installed and the Front Five pinion planet assembly installed again not the cheap after market type. at this time the output shaft is installed after having been carefully inspected and having pressurize solvent sent though th lube channels to assure they are clear. Many people miss this or don't note that oil flows at every port in the shaft this is very important. A new output shaft retainer clip is installed these should always be replaced and never reused. The front sun gear is now prepared like the low sun gear specially slotted and installed into the front planet. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the output shaft or the front sun gears as while I did take the photos they came out very blurry for some reason. I will take them again and add later. The planet on the left is of a front 5 pinion planet.
Next we tackle the input drum again several things here are different from the other units. First as with all the units we press out the input shaft and carefully inspect the Inside spines in the drum for any signs of wear or stress or even that the shaft comes out to easily. It must be a tight fit. We then replace this shaft with a hardened shaft and use Red loctite to assure it does not move. Now we begin the assemble of the drum. We do not use the sleeve inside the drum anymore. At one time we did, This was not changed as a cost cutting factor since the sleeve is quite cheap and easy to install. But rather as a matter of choice. Heres why. In my entire history I have only seen two of these shafts spin in the Input drum And in each case the drum was obviously worn and the shaft had had a loose fit. We have seen 0 of these type failures in any level of performabuilt unit. The problem we have run into however has to do with the aluminum apply pistons that must be used when using the metal sleeve. These pistons are well know to crack even in stock applications with much lower line pressure and stress levels and we have seen this happen even in PerformaBuilt units when we were using the sleeve. The fix for this is to use the steel pistons with the molded seals like we use in all our units however these are completely incompatible with the sleeve input drum, They simply will not fit. You may ask why not only use the aluminum overun piston since its the only one that must clear the sleeve. The problem with this is that the inside diameter of the molded forward piston it must seal to is slightly larger and while you can assemble it this way you cannot get a good seal between the overun piston and the forward piston and it will leak. Now in OD position this would not matter However in the all the lower positions manual 1-2-D this would cause leakage of pressure and eventual failure of the overun clutch set Since it is on then. So since we have seen no failures of the input drum from not having the sleeve but we have seen failures of the aluminum pistons it was decided that the greater risk of failure was to be found there, So we opted to use the steel apply pistons instead of the sleeve in the drum.
Below are two of the steel pistons. In most stock applications except very late models these would be aluminum with removable seals. These are all (3-4)(forward) and (overun) pistons replaced new in every unit.
Install new raybestos overun frictions. The lube seal is replaced. Is the brownish seal shown in bottom of the pictue on the left, The picture on the right is of the precision Seal/overhaul kit we use.
We then prepare and inspect the inner and outer sprag race and install a new Borg Warner dual cage sprag assembly. The we install this into the drum and install the new composite high energy forward clutch frictions and steels.Shown are the forward frictions, The forward clutch steels and at the bottom a borg warner dual cage sprag.
Now comes the 3-4 clutch here again things are a little different. In the level 1you may have noted we use the high energy type frictions and in the Level 2 the Zpack. In the level three we choose to use the raybestos blue plate frictions count of 8 These frictions are true performance frictions and quite expensive comparatively. Averaging 10 dollars each in the set making them considerable more expensive than the frictions used in the other levels. We have found they have excellent energy absorption and friction characteristics. And have excellent wear characteristics. You can read more about them by clicking the picture of them below. These frictions are installed and set to our own race clearance. The proper performance clearance in this set is very important in the 4L60E with any clutch set too loose and you risk breaking the lugs from the drum where the retaining ring for the 3-4 clutch rides. To tight and you risk burning from excessive drag with the set is not applied.
Bellow you will see pictured are the Raybestos blue plate 3-4 clutch set, These are used with stock steels as this is what raybestos suggest rather than the koleens that are used with some other clutch sets. Please click the picture to learn more about this set.
This set has now been upgraded replaced with the RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 clutch set for a slightly improved shift feel less clunky but with greater energy absorption. I will post link and pictures of this set soon.
__________________
Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 04:12 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:49 PM
#5
PerformaBuilt LEVEL 3 PART 2 Level 3 Part 2
Next we prepare the reverse input drum. This drum is critcal the surface the band rides on must have no more than a .005 variance from side to side. None is preferred however I have found even new stock drum do not meet this spec. But each and every one of the drums we use must meet this minimum or be replaced. A new bushing is installed along with a new raybestos or borg warner friction set. The surface of the drum is prepared with a slight cross hatch for better surface, This is also suggested by transgo this makes for a better friction surface and helps to hold some oil between the band and the drum to aid in cooling.Another change here is the band In the levels 1 and 2 we use the wide redlined band however in the level 3 we use the wide composite friction band by raybestos. Though the redlined band is certainly and excellent product this band has better friction charateristics and is better able to handle and dispurse heat. In truth its overkill for most any aplication since we havent see any issues with the red band, But this is the level 3 only the best here. Below is a picture of the high energy wide band. I will shortly add a picture of the reverse input drum. Once resized.
Now we do a mock install of the pump the set end play and select the apropriate washer to place on the input drum to acheive this. We then remove the pump to install the servos 2nd and 4th are both billet. The Second servo is a fairbanks superior peice. Its provides the max apply area for second possible and acts to limit but not eliminate 3-4 clutch acumulation. Only fairbanks/superior can offer this design as it is patented by them and it has 40 % more holdig area than the corvette servo.This servo is installed in a mock installation with the 4th servo no seals installed This is done to set the 2nd servo band clearance using a combination of the correct band apply pin length and spacers as needed. Then its removed and disassembled. Then the SONNAX super hold twin piston billet servo is installed again in mock set up so that its clearance can be set. Many times this is not done and only the 2nd gear servo clearance is set, However this servo can still be too loose or tight even when the other is perfect and must also be ajusted. The SONNAX servo is and excellent peice also with the dual pistons it provides 40 percent more hold in 4th gear than the stock servo.
Shown below are from left to right the (FAIRBANKS SUPERIOR BILLET SERVO)(THE GM CORVETTE SERVO)(SONNAX 4TH GEAR SUPER HOLD SERVO)
Note the corvette servo which is stock in FBODY CARS and compare it to the fairbanks peice. The fairbanks peice uses the entire circumfrence to apply the band in second gear. The corvette servo only uses the area outside the center so you can see how much more hold the fairbanks can provide and they are not a cheap peice by any means the corvette servo average price is 7-9 dollars. The Fairbanks peice averages between 65 and 85 dollars. We could use a cheaper servo but then again only the best. The Sonnax servo at the right I wish i hade taken apart but it contains 2 separate servos for that WOT 4th gear shift to hold.
You can click on the pictures of the Superior/fairbanks and the Sonnax servo for more details on each.
Now with the Band clearance set the two servo assemblies are installed and each static air tested for function and leaks.
We now address the PUMP. The pump body is carefully inspected and the mating surfaces flat sanded to assure no cross leaks. A new teflon bushng is installed and the pump stator replaced as needed along with the bushings. New pump vanes and washer are installed along with hardened pump rings and a Heavy duty slide spring. Rotor to pump face clearance is checked an a Large boost valve installed. The pump halves are then assembled and alighned. Pump is torqued to spec and installed into the transmission. New sealing orings are installed on each pump bolt and they are installed and torqued to spec. As with all our units all gaskets, seals and orings are all new.
Now comes the valve body, The valve body is first washed with high presure solvent then rinsed with high presure fresh water, Then blown dry and disassembled and the valve body housing rerinsed and blown dry, The valves are all then reinstalled and checked for proper motion . Modifications for PWM elimination and "other things are done at this time" The bodyis then placed in and oven and heated to 250 degrees F and then removed and again the valves checked for proper motion dry. We then dip the body in lubricant and high presure blow the excess oil off the body. Solenoids are now installed and each checked for mechanical and electrical function. You would actually be amazed we have caught more than a few new solenoids that had issues. This is particulary true of the PCS we have found them several diffeent phases of our checks, With electrical , mechanical and on the test dyno with presures way to high or low and I am speaking of new GM solenoids. So we pay special attention to this solenoid. The PWM solenoid is generally allways reused as it serves no purpose in our build beyond being a Dummy for the PCM to see.
The shift plate is then prepared the appropriate holes enlarged to give adequate appy presure to the clutch sets, If the plate has any damage it is replaced since its simple its either good or bad there is no in between.
On accumulation this is where we differ from many of our competitors. We do not limit accumulation for second gear through spacers, washers or springs. We also do not use the pinless accumulators as by design they to limit accumulation IMO this is a bad move and with the feed sizes we use and retaining the accumulation on all our levels we get a firm but not agressive light throttle shift progressivly getting stronger as the throttle is increased, The basic shift kit for all our units is the same with only variances for the heavy hauler and rocks climbers units, Our kit is not and out of the box kit like some use but rather and accumulation of all the kits we have used over the years. Using what seemed to work best from each along with tricks of our own we picked up.
The trans is then placed on the dyno with a test pan and filter and run. The presure in every gear is carefully monitored and the trans is allways run till it reaches a min temperature of 155 degrees F This test takes around 45 minutes and is much easier than our former way of placing in a vehicle and testing. The presure is ajusted for a max untill it reaches and maintains a presure between 220 and 235 psi and yes we do at times have to pull the pan a couple times to get there.
With this test we are now able to do many things we couldnt before, We can listen for noises that may have gone un noticed with the test vehicle due to the inherent engine nosie. We can more carefully monitor presure since the motor can be set at a and exact RPM and does not waver. Again once the trans is tested and passes. then trans is drained . Pan checked for any unussual debris and the test filter removed and a new one installed along with the final pan.
The individual running the dyno has no other job he remains there watching at all times. And must make a full chart for every trans and sign off on it. In other words if something gets by we know who to talk to
Well thats it for the level 3 hope you enjoyed. Sorry dont have more pictures will likley add some later as I get the chance to take them
Next we prepare the reverse input drum. This drum is critcal the surface the band rides on must have no more than a .005 variance from side to side. None is preferred however I have found even new stock drum do not meet this spec. But each and every one of the drums we use must meet this minimum or be replaced. A new bushing is installed along with a new raybestos or borg warner friction set. The surface of the drum is prepared with a slight cross hatch for better surface, This is also suggested by transgo this makes for a better friction surface and helps to hold some oil between the band and the drum to aid in cooling.Another change here is the band In the levels 1 and 2 we use the wide redlined band however in the level 3 we use the wide composite friction band by raybestos. Though the redlined band is certainly and excellent product this band has better friction charateristics and is better able to handle and dispurse heat. In truth its overkill for most any aplication since we havent see any issues with the red band, But this is the level 3 only the best here. Below is a picture of the high energy wide band. I will shortly add a picture of the reverse input drum. Once resized.
Now we do a mock install of the pump the set end play and select the apropriate washer to place on the input drum to acheive this. We then remove the pump to install the servos 2nd and 4th are both billet. The Second servo is a fairbanks superior peice. Its provides the max apply area for second possible and acts to limit but not eliminate 3-4 clutch acumulation. Only fairbanks/superior can offer this design as it is patented by them and it has 40 % more holdig area than the corvette servo.This servo is installed in a mock installation with the 4th servo no seals installed This is done to set the 2nd servo band clearance using a combination of the correct band apply pin length and spacers as needed. Then its removed and disassembled. Then the SONNAX super hold twin piston billet servo is installed again in mock set up so that its clearance can be set. Many times this is not done and only the 2nd gear servo clearance is set, However this servo can still be too loose or tight even when the other is perfect and must also be ajusted. The SONNAX servo is and excellent peice also with the dual pistons it provides 40 percent more hold in 4th gear than the stock servo.
Shown below are from left to right the (FAIRBANKS SUPERIOR BILLET SERVO)(THE GM CORVETTE SERVO)(SONNAX 4TH GEAR SUPER HOLD SERVO)
Note the corvette servo which is stock in FBODY CARS and compare it to the fairbanks peice. The fairbanks peice uses the entire circumfrence to apply the band in second gear. The corvette servo only uses the area outside the center so you can see how much more hold the fairbanks can provide and they are not a cheap peice by any means the corvette servo average price is 7-9 dollars. The Fairbanks peice averages between 65 and 85 dollars. We could use a cheaper servo but then again only the best. The Sonnax servo at the right I wish i hade taken apart but it contains 2 separate servos for that WOT 4th gear shift to hold.
You can click on the pictures of the Superior/fairbanks and the Sonnax servo for more details on each.
Now with the Band clearance set the two servo assemblies are installed and each static air tested for function and leaks.
We now address the PUMP. The pump body is carefully inspected and the mating surfaces flat sanded to assure no cross leaks. A new teflon bushng is installed and the pump stator replaced as needed along with the bushings. New pump vanes and washer are installed along with hardened pump rings and a Heavy duty slide spring. Rotor to pump face clearance is checked an a Large boost valve installed. The pump halves are then assembled and alighned. Pump is torqued to spec and installed into the transmission. New sealing orings are installed on each pump bolt and they are installed and torqued to spec. As with all our units all gaskets, seals and orings are all new.
Now comes the valve body, The valve body is first washed with high presure solvent then rinsed with high presure fresh water, Then blown dry and disassembled and the valve body housing rerinsed and blown dry, The valves are all then reinstalled and checked for proper motion . Modifications for PWM elimination and "other things are done at this time" The bodyis then placed in and oven and heated to 250 degrees F and then removed and again the valves checked for proper motion dry. We then dip the body in lubricant and high presure blow the excess oil off the body. Solenoids are now installed and each checked for mechanical and electrical function. You would actually be amazed we have caught more than a few new solenoids that had issues. This is particulary true of the PCS we have found them several diffeent phases of our checks, With electrical , mechanical and on the test dyno with presures way to high or low and I am speaking of new GM solenoids. So we pay special attention to this solenoid. The PWM solenoid is generally allways reused as it serves no purpose in our build beyond being a Dummy for the PCM to see.
The shift plate is then prepared the appropriate holes enlarged to give adequate appy presure to the clutch sets, If the plate has any damage it is replaced since its simple its either good or bad there is no in between.
On accumulation this is where we differ from many of our competitors. We do not limit accumulation for second gear through spacers, washers or springs. We also do not use the pinless accumulators as by design they to limit accumulation IMO this is a bad move and with the feed sizes we use and retaining the accumulation on all our levels we get a firm but not agressive light throttle shift progressivly getting stronger as the throttle is increased, The basic shift kit for all our units is the same with only variances for the heavy hauler and rocks climbers units, Our kit is not and out of the box kit like some use but rather and accumulation of all the kits we have used over the years. Using what seemed to work best from each along with tricks of our own we picked up.
The trans is then placed on the dyno with a test pan and filter and run. The presure in every gear is carefully monitored and the trans is allways run till it reaches a min temperature of 155 degrees F This test takes around 45 minutes and is much easier than our former way of placing in a vehicle and testing. The presure is ajusted for a max untill it reaches and maintains a presure between 220 and 235 psi and yes we do at times have to pull the pan a couple times to get there.
With this test we are now able to do many things we couldnt before, We can listen for noises that may have gone un noticed with the test vehicle due to the inherent engine nosie. We can more carefully monitor presure since the motor can be set at a and exact RPM and does not waver. Again once the trans is tested and passes. then trans is drained . Pan checked for any unussual debris and the test filter removed and a new one installed along with the final pan.
The individual running the dyno has no other job he remains there watching at all times. And must make a full chart for every trans and sign off on it. In other words if something gets by we know who to talk to
Well thats it for the level 3 hope you enjoyed. Sorry dont have more pictures will likley add some later as I get the chance to take them
__________________
03-19-2008, 08:51 PM
#6
PerformaBuilt TEST EQUIPMENT WHEN YOU NEED A LITTLE HELP PerformaBuilt Test equipment
Here at PerformaBuilt we are always looking for ways we can help our customers, We have and even provide test equipment when needed, The Picture below is of one such device. It has over the past year saved both us and the customer $1000 of dollars in unessesary repairs and returns.
We actually have two of these. I built them they are not the prettiest but very functional. As you can see there are a series of switches. The first two to the left of the picture turn the Shift solenoids A and B or (1-2 and 2-3) shift solenoids off and on.
This box is plugged directly into the transmission.Using these two switches you can create any gear and verify that the transmission is capable of shifting regardless of the PCM command.
The next switch over is lockup enable. This switch will turn on the converter clutch. This is vey helpful in determining if a lockup issue is trans/ converter related or tuning/pcm related. The small red push button lower left is for the PCS its a simple test max or min line pressure and is used to verify normal shifts in conditions similar to Light throttle or WOT. The small black button is for the 3-2 solenoid and while you really cant feel any change with it its was included to verify function by ear listening to it click.
This box has a long cable and plugs into your lighter socket and the directly to the trans round plug on top. This way you can keep it in the car with you and verify function in all conditions. And it still does even more if either of the 1-2,2-3 or lockup solenoid or circuits is open it will illuminate both the red and green LEDs at the same time. This would instantly tell you there was and open connection to one of these solenoids. Alternately if theres a short, the orange LED at the lower right will go off as power will be disabled to the box again telling you there was and electrical issue with a shorted internal transmission wire or solenoid.
In normal operation the red LED is on when the solenoid is off and the green LED is on when the solenoid is on. We use this box when a customer seems to have and issue with shifting of some sort that cannot be explained or with lockup.
We send it to the customer so they will not have to spend $ and lots of time chasing there tails over these type issues. Which I know all of you see these Type problems pop up regularly with any vendors trans or converter regularly (no lockup-Wont up shift-Wont down shift etc).
With this our customer can know without guess work where to look for a problem. If the box allows all to work normally then they know to look at the tuning if the box cannot cause normal operation. Then We know the correct direction to head to help get the issue solved. Most of the time the box when it goes out ends up only verifying the trans is in working order.
Now some might say you could duplicate this with a tuner or tuning software and even some scanners and to some extent that is true. However we have see cases for instance where a tuner was used to command lockup and no lockup occurred and yet with this device it worked normally.
When this happens even though tuning is not part of what we offer we have yet another box I do not have a picture of it as there is only one and it is on loan to one of our dealers presently. The other box has leads on it I call puncture leads. There function is to be directly connected to the cars harness wires one for each solenoid. this may be done under the car or at the PCM. We send diagrams for both but its generally simpler to hook at at harness under car . It has and LED for each solenoid in the trans . The LEDs will light up when the PCM turns on any solenoid. This has in a few cases though its not common proved that just because the tuning software or a scanner says something was commanded or turned on (lockup) (shift solenoids) That does not mean that the PCM actually did it.
Anyway I thought you guys might find this interesting its a handy tool That I built. Though you can buy similar tool called breakout boxes or schafter shifters in the after market they cost 1000s dollars and we couldn't risk just sending one of those out so this was a low cost solution to further help our customers in anyway we can.
We are always committed to helping our customers solve any issue they may have regardless of the cause or reason.
This is one area where that year of electronics engineering in school comes in handy. Just wish I had done better in English and grammar
We do this because we realize most of our customers are working on there own cars and may not have or have access to specialty test equipment.
Here at PerformaBuilt we are always looking for ways we can help our customers, We have and even provide test equipment when needed, The Picture below is of one such device. It has over the past year saved both us and the customer $1000 of dollars in unessesary repairs and returns.
We actually have two of these. I built them they are not the prettiest but very functional. As you can see there are a series of switches. The first two to the left of the picture turn the Shift solenoids A and B or (1-2 and 2-3) shift solenoids off and on.
This box is plugged directly into the transmission.Using these two switches you can create any gear and verify that the transmission is capable of shifting regardless of the PCM command.
The next switch over is lockup enable. This switch will turn on the converter clutch. This is vey helpful in determining if a lockup issue is trans/ converter related or tuning/pcm related. The small red push button lower left is for the PCS its a simple test max or min line pressure and is used to verify normal shifts in conditions similar to Light throttle or WOT. The small black button is for the 3-2 solenoid and while you really cant feel any change with it its was included to verify function by ear listening to it click.
This box has a long cable and plugs into your lighter socket and the directly to the trans round plug on top. This way you can keep it in the car with you and verify function in all conditions. And it still does even more if either of the 1-2,2-3 or lockup solenoid or circuits is open it will illuminate both the red and green LEDs at the same time. This would instantly tell you there was and open connection to one of these solenoids. Alternately if theres a short, the orange LED at the lower right will go off as power will be disabled to the box again telling you there was and electrical issue with a shorted internal transmission wire or solenoid.
In normal operation the red LED is on when the solenoid is off and the green LED is on when the solenoid is on. We use this box when a customer seems to have and issue with shifting of some sort that cannot be explained or with lockup.
We send it to the customer so they will not have to spend $ and lots of time chasing there tails over these type issues. Which I know all of you see these Type problems pop up regularly with any vendors trans or converter regularly (no lockup-Wont up shift-Wont down shift etc).
With this our customer can know without guess work where to look for a problem. If the box allows all to work normally then they know to look at the tuning if the box cannot cause normal operation. Then We know the correct direction to head to help get the issue solved. Most of the time the box when it goes out ends up only verifying the trans is in working order.
Now some might say you could duplicate this with a tuner or tuning software and even some scanners and to some extent that is true. However we have see cases for instance where a tuner was used to command lockup and no lockup occurred and yet with this device it worked normally.
When this happens even though tuning is not part of what we offer we have yet another box I do not have a picture of it as there is only one and it is on loan to one of our dealers presently. The other box has leads on it I call puncture leads. There function is to be directly connected to the cars harness wires one for each solenoid. this may be done under the car or at the PCM. We send diagrams for both but its generally simpler to hook at at harness under car . It has and LED for each solenoid in the trans . The LEDs will light up when the PCM turns on any solenoid. This has in a few cases though its not common proved that just because the tuning software or a scanner says something was commanded or turned on (lockup) (shift solenoids) That does not mean that the PCM actually did it.
Anyway I thought you guys might find this interesting its a handy tool That I built. Though you can buy similar tool called breakout boxes or schafter shifters in the after market they cost 1000s dollars and we couldn't risk just sending one of those out so this was a low cost solution to further help our customers in anyway we can.
We are always committed to helping our customers solve any issue they may have regardless of the cause or reason.
This is one area where that year of electronics engineering in school comes in handy. Just wish I had done better in English and grammar
We do this because we realize most of our customers are working on there own cars and may not have or have access to specialty test equipment.
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 04:15 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:53 PM
#7
PerformaBuilt DYNO a Little about it We recently got and have functioning our DYNO here is a little description. It was built for us from a design I made by a local but nationally known CYCLE SHOP.
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
I figured they make customer bikes bodies from scratch all the time so why not , We wanted a dyno but at the same time we didn’t need one that could test every trans for every kind of car, We needed one to test the trans we sell. After all the astro dyno was on its last legs. We beat on her all she could stand. So they took on the project and here is what we ended up with its a static brake type driven by a 40 hp three phase electric motor.
I must say I am very pleased with this addition to the PerformaBuit tools. While there are advantages to a vehicle test there are plenty to a DYNO too , 1 being the ability to hear better what’s happening with the trans and the ability to stop and make quick changes and pressure adjustments easily. Our new addition cannot test FWD but can test any rear wheel drive application, Later when we finish a few cosmetic additions I will post a picture of it, But we have been using it a little over a week and other than a minor snafu with the brake part. (Ripped the splines out of the center. electric motors are the hotrods of the future, Fixed now I have been very pleased with it. You may have noticed the past week I haven’t been around as much, This is why , They built it now its was my job to make all the gadgets to make it do all we wanted and make sure it did them well. I guess it was handy taking electronics engineering in 2 years at college after all. Just wish had done better in English and grammar as all of you I am sure know lol.
Frank
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-08-2008 at 04:15 PM.
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03-22-2008, 09:15 PM
#9
PerformaBuilt 4L80E Build 
This is the case with a hard oil resistant enamel coating we at PerformaBuilt use. This coating is applied after the case is cleaned and the case is heated to a hi temp and the coating applied hot. This makes the finish unlikely to crack or peel in all conditions. This is done with all our PerformaBuilt units.
Now we have the case clean and empty ready to receive the internal performance parts.
The is the Case with thrust washer race installed ready for the planet assembly.
This is a picture showing the stock and billet intermediate shafts the billet shaft is considerably stronger that the stock counterpart. This shaft was provided by CK PERFORMANCE in NY for us at PerformaBuilt
This is the new billet intermediate shaft installed, Nice looking piece.
This is the planet assembly note the machined area to allow use of a bearing in place of the washer this again was machined at CK PERFORMANCE for PerformaBuiltin a joint effort.
This is the planet assembly along with the low/reverse band and new roller clutch assembly loaded in to the case.
This is the center support and low roller race ready to be installed in the case.
This is the top side of the center support with the Transgo blue sealing rings these are a unique design in that the use metal expander rings behind them to assure a superior seal preventing cross leaks common here.
Center support installed in case with intermediate (2nd) apply piston ready to receive the intermediate return cage.
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-26-2008 at 12:21 PM.
04-06-2008, 05:17 PM
#10
4l80e Build Part 2 
This shows the special intermediate clutch set installed that allows for the use of the 36 element intermediate sprag. They are required since the sprag race is of a larger diameter than stock.
Direct clutch drum and Intermediate overun band installed. I have found its easier to install the drum without the clutch set first this makes it easier to index the intermediate(2nd gear) clutch set, This drum is the drum for the larger heavy duty sprag mentioned above and was supplied by CK PERFORMANCE again a very nice piece. We now install the RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 performance frictions and new steels as shown below in the direct clutch drum. Note the direct clutch drum functions as 3rd gear and when in reverse along with the low/reverse band makes reverse gear possible.
Shown above is the forward clutch drum being loaded with the RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 performance clutch set.
This is the forward clutch drum assembled the center drive is for the forward clutch set and the teeth on the backing plate transfer power for the direct clutch set.
This is the forward drum installed into the case.
This is the overdive and overun clutch drum the over run clutches go inside this drum and the overdrive clutches go around it. The little blue squares with the rollers in then is the overdrive sprag late style.
Overun drum with the overun frictions installed again RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 frictions are used here.
This is the overun drum and overdrive planet assembly with the new billet input shaft from CK PERFORMANCE installed.
This shows the overdrive assembly installed into case along with the overdrive apply piston.
This picture shows the overdrive frictions again RAYBESTOS STAGE 1 being installed also note again you have the special sealing rings with expander rings on the input shaft.
This is the complete overdrive assembly installed.
Close up of billet input shaft from CK PERFORMANCE.
This is the 4L80E pump installed in the transmission, The pumps for these are quite heavy still made of cast iron and steel.
Pump installed with new front seal
Case valve body channels with od and center support bolts installed. The OD and center support bolts must be torqued carefully over tigten just a little and they will break off.
Case VB channels with low/reverse and intermediate overun servos along with check ***** installed.
The low reverse servo is only on in manual low and reverse.The intermediate overun servo is on in manual second to provide and engine braking effect when needed.
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-26-2008 at 12:24 PM.
04-13-2008, 03:25 PM
#11
This is the valve body cleaned and assembled. Cleanliness and special care is important here not only is each valve checked for movement but each is removed and the placed in body without return springs and must move freely with gravity.
This is the valve body installed I took photos of the plate and gasket installed.
Complete filter and harness installed
Trans on stand complete with new input and output speed sensors.
Trans bolted to dyno and thats it for this one. Dyno test went well. The dyno while not as fancy as some has proven invaluable. When any transmission is on the dyno all shift functions and pressures are tested . Each transmission is run from 45 minute to 1 hour and repeatedly shifted and monitored.
Any thats the build for this unit, Its exactly like the unit we have on our site except the normal unit does not have the 36 element intermediate sprag and instead has the late HD 34 element sprag along with the stock input and intermediate shafts. However these parts are available at additional charge.
This PerformaBuilt Transmission was built specifically for Dave Lamannos truck By PerformaBuilt in cooperation with CK performance.
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Last edited by performabuilt; 05-26-2008 at 12:28 PM.
04-14-2008, 09:15 AM
#12
bought my car off a guy who said he had a local guy rebuild his 4l60e, said the converter caused the tranny to overheat. Im looking to replace the whole thing and was told not to even bother getting another one because they are crap. Ive read some good things about you guys and was wondering if the level two would be a good chioce for me.
Looking at your build I would say it should be fine, Give me a call to discuss 570-578-5686
Frank
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05-08-2008, 02:06 PM
#14
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I would like to send my praise for a BAD *** trans! I picked up the level 2 4l60e and I must say.... DAMN! It doesnt just chirp the tires, it lays a couple of nice black patches in the road when youre really gettin in it but smooth when youre not. Very nicely built. I couldn't ask for better.
05-08-2008, 09:50 PM
#16
