Finally had enough of the Bose subwoofer
09-11-2010, 09:42 PM
#1
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Finally had enough of the Bose subwoofer So I picked up an Alpine type R 12" sub and a JBL 600.1 amp. Had it installed this morning and love it! Man I forgot what real bass sounded like. The sub is secured and easily removable.
I had them install a bass **** under the dash so I can adjust the bass. All the way down and its just like stock, half way and it sounds perfect. All the way up and it BUMPS. I keep it at a quarter to half. It really fills out the sound.
I'm really starting to like my car again!
I had them install a bass **** under the dash so I can adjust the bass. All the way down and its just like stock, half way and it sounds perfect. All the way up and it BUMPS. I keep it at a quarter to half. It really fills out the sound.
I'm really starting to like my car again!
09-11-2010, 09:50 PM
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nice...i will be doing this soon.
but i will more then like take the Rockford P3 and Alpine Amp that are in my truck and put them in the back of the V. or i may just get a newer, better sub for the V.
but i will more then like take the Rockford P3 and Alpine Amp that are in my truck and put them in the back of the V. or i may just get a newer, better sub for the V.
09-12-2010, 01:40 PM
#6
I'd like to find a wiring diagram to the factory stereo/amplifier and figure out how to hook up my punch 150 and a small subwoofer. The only thing is I'd have to run a level adapter for the rca's. The hardest part I ran into on doing this on my Jeep (factory infinity system) ws getting a 12 vdc 'switch'...All the lines going to the amplifier were 6 vdc (except the main power). I was going to hook up a 6 v to 12 v relay, but ended up just pulling the 12 v 'switch' off accessory power and a manual switch to bypass. I didn't like it, but was the only way with my amp. I have a feeling the bose is setup similar, as far as its 'switch' to turn on the amp. However, without a connector diagram, etc. I'm just guessing. The way I did it on the Jeep was with a meter, to see what signals were what (beyond the speaker out). The nice thing about newer amps is they don't have a separate 12 v 'switch' and instead turn on when it 'sees' a speaker signal, if that makes sense.
The best way would be with one of those JBL (?) deals where it takes all the factory wiring harnesses and such and gives you RCA and such. But, $$$.
Anyhow, I like the subbox and stuff, but how big is the factory subwoofer and would a free-air work with our big trunks (volume). I don't want to cut up the rear shelf, but at the same time would like a decent subwoofer there.
But yeah, we need better bass and the XM sucks caca for its frequency quality (hear you can pay extra, but WTF)...When it came out, CD quality, but now the greedy fauks give you barely FM quality now
The best way would be with one of those JBL (?) deals where it takes all the factory wiring harnesses and such and gives you RCA and such. But, $$$.
Anyhow, I like the subbox and stuff, but how big is the factory subwoofer and would a free-air work with our big trunks (volume). I don't want to cut up the rear shelf, but at the same time would like a decent subwoofer there.
But yeah, we need better bass and the XM sucks caca for its frequency quality (hear you can pay extra, but WTF)...When it came out, CD quality, but now the greedy fauks give you barely FM quality now
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09-12-2010, 03:06 PM
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Sorry guys, I don't know the specifics. I know he had to run the power from the battery, and he used the factory sub/amp to get the signal for the new sub.
Wires and parts ended up being around $150 and labor was $150. It took them about an hour and a half to do the full instal.
Wires and parts ended up being around $150 and labor was $150. It took them about an hour and a half to do the full instal.
09-12-2010, 09:31 PM
#10
LOL i just put in the new model Alpine Type R 10" in a selaed box with an Alpine 500 watt amp. Mounted in the exact same spots.
To connect the factory bose amp to the alpine amp you slice a line out converter into the wires going to the factory amp. My alpine amp came with the plug in, if you dont you have to splice into the back of the head unit. I couldnt be happier with my setup.
I went with the 10" because i wanted more factory sounding bass and 10s in a sealed box are about as precise and accurate as bass you can get. The 12s start to get bumpier and dont sound as factory. Its all in what sound you want though.
To connect the factory bose amp to the alpine amp you slice a line out converter into the wires going to the factory amp. My alpine amp came with the plug in, if you dont you have to splice into the back of the head unit. I couldnt be happier with my setup.
I went with the 10" because i wanted more factory sounding bass and 10s in a sealed box are about as precise and accurate as bass you can get. The 12s start to get bumpier and dont sound as factory. Its all in what sound you want though.
09-13-2010, 12:47 AM
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if you want some bump in the trunk...
kicker 15 solbera...JL WS7...Rockford P3
i have a P3 10" with an Alpine 500, and it hits HARD. most people think i am running a dual 10 or a nice 12.
like what itsslow said, 10s will have a cleaner sound. which is why that is what i will be going with. i dont listen to a lot of music with bump, so i want better note quality.
kicker 15 solbera...JL WS7...Rockford P3
i have a P3 10" with an Alpine 500, and it hits HARD. most people think i am running a dual 10 or a nice 12.
like what itsslow said, 10s will have a cleaner sound. which is why that is what i will be going with. i dont listen to a lot of music with bump, so i want better note quality.
09-13-2010, 05:34 AM
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If you wanna keep your trunk and also save some weight from the heavy enclosure box, buy one 10" Kicker Comp or Infinity Kappa Perfect 10". They are some of the few free-air rated subs left on the market. Also for more response out of the sub, dynamat the whole rear deck and get an XTC 10" foam baffle from crutchfield or ebay.
09-13-2010, 05:30 PM
#15
From what Ive heard you have to be careful running aftermarket component speakers since our head unit only outputs at 2 ohms and all the new speakers run at 4 ohms. This is what I was told when i was thinking about redoing the whole system and keeping the stock headd unit, im considering ditching the factory unit when i get the money for a nice 7' display.
09-13-2010, 06:14 PM
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From what Ive heard you have to be careful running aftermarket component speakers since our head unit only outputs at 2 ohms and all the new speakers run at 4 ohms. This is what I was told when i was thinking about redoing the whole system and keeping the stock headd unit, im considering ditching the factory unit when i get the money for a nice 7' display.
09-14-2010, 03:34 PM
#17
True Four Ohm Impedance technology: speaker's 2-ohm impedance combines with speaker wire impedance for a 4-ohm load
09-15-2010, 05:45 AM
#18
If you wanna keep your trunk and also save some weight from the heavy enclosure box, buy one 10" Kicker Comp or Infinity Kappa Perfect 10". They are some of the few free-air rated subs left on the market. Also for more response out of the sub, dynamat the whole rear deck and get an XTC 10" foam baffle from crutchfield or ebay.
09-15-2010, 02:47 PM
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Thought about the slim Pioneer too. Price was almost double that of the Kicker comps and I'd never heard a slim sub. I fear change lol. Definetely like the extreme slealth of your pioneer.
09-15-2010, 05:50 PM
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If you wanna keep your trunk and also save some weight from the heavy enclosure box, buy one 10" Kicker Comp or Infinity Kappa Perfect 10". They are some of the few free-air rated subs left on the market. Also for more response out of the sub, dynamat the whole rear deck and get an XTC 10" foam baffle from crutchfield or ebay.