T56 Bandaids Prepped - Ready to Rock!
11-24-2012, 12:31 AM
#1
T56 Bandaids Prepped - Ready to Rock! 
Parts List:
- PISNUOFF delrin/steel center linkage bushing (shifter side)
- UUC polyurethane side linkage bushings (shifter side)
- Azn2dmax fabricated center linkage arm
- B-Quiet Ultimate damper to eliminate vibration in all three linkage arms
- PISNUOFF brass center linkage bushing (T56 side)
- Home Depot PVC side linkage bushings (T56 side)
- Tremec #95 T56 bronze isolator cup
- Tremec #52 T56 shift detent spring
- Tremec #53 T56 shift detent ball
- Carriage bolt
Credit to Cadzilla for starting this whole thing and PISNUOFF and Azn2dmax for fabricating extra parts that you can't get anywhere else.
11-24-2012, 01:01 AM
#2
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Just FYI... That shifter arm isn't going to work from what I've seen.
I had picked one up from Azn, but as you can see... its too short. Unless there's something I should know?
[edit]
Haven't forgotten you... Thanksgiving weekend.
I had picked one up from Azn, but as you can see... its too short. Unless there's something I should know?
[edit]
Haven't forgotten you... Thanksgiving weekend.
11-24-2012, 01:27 AM
#3
It should be a drastic improvement!
Where did you get the detent spring and ball? I still have to replace that or just the whole detent.
I originally put some dynamat extreme on the linkage arms as well but ended up removing it later because it made the shifts way too harsh when it hit the stops. You could feel the added weight too much..
It's worth jbwelding the brass bushings into place and especially fusing that pin..both are worth a bit of extra firmness. Not sure what the conversion rate is for play at the trans vs the **** but every little bit helps.
I also have about 1.5" of dynamat around my shifter stalk from just above the base up to the ****, it helped eliminate vibes.
I thought we determined the asn arms weren't compatible a while back..Once you see how the stock arm fits in there it makes sense that it's narrow and circular.they just messed up the connections..
Where did you get the detent spring and ball? I still have to replace that or just the whole detent.
I originally put some dynamat extreme on the linkage arms as well but ended up removing it later because it made the shifts way too harsh when it hit the stops. You could feel the added weight too much..
It's worth jbwelding the brass bushings into place and especially fusing that pin..both are worth a bit of extra firmness. Not sure what the conversion rate is for play at the trans vs the **** but every little bit helps.
I also have about 1.5" of dynamat around my shifter stalk from just above the base up to the ****, it helped eliminate vibes.
I thought we determined the asn arms weren't compatible a while back..Once you see how the stock arm fits in there it makes sense that it's narrow and circular.they just messed up the connections..
11-24-2012, 08:11 AM
#6
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That linkage looks like the regular V6 shift linkage. I bought a new V6 shifter and it came with the same linkage (flat strap with the "U" pieces at each end) I modified the shifter to make a short throw and swapped my linkage back on.
11-24-2012, 08:38 AM
#7
Let us know how it goes..
You going to JB weld the pin in the center arm?
that makes alot of sense. shifter stalk is the same across the cts platform, arms are not
You going to JB weld the pin in the center arm?that makes alot of sense. shifter stalk is the same across the cts platform, arms are not
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11-24-2012, 09:12 AM
#8
(Not my T56...you can tell by the grime!)
I may also go talk to a welding shop to see if they think they can lengthen Azn2dmax's center arm. The torsional rigidity of the GM center linkage is not great (it's probably just thin-walled tubular steel), and then GM had to put a whole bunch of bends in it that further reduced its torsional rigidity.
All in all, this is going to be an interesting couple of weeks. I'm also replacing my Hotchkis (1.125" hollow tubular steel) front sway bar with a Addco 2290 (1.375" solid steel) front sway bar. In addition to being materially stronger, the Addco piece appears to be straight as opposed to being bent. The more bends in the bar, the more the bar acts like a spring under torsion. Therefore, the Addco bar should be massively stiffer than the Hotchkis one. If I like it, I may pick up the rear bar too.
11-24-2012, 10:25 AM
#9
Definitely would like to see how this works out for you. My trans has gotten pretty sloppy over the past 30k miles and would love to go back through and tighten things back up on it.
11-24-2012, 11:26 AM
#10
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I installed bearings in the lower Part of the stalk on a pissnuoff shifter, so I could actually tighten it all the way and not have it bind up. I also ground the weld off of the stud on the front of the shifter arm, and put a bolt through it, and nut, and cranked that down tight. I also tack welded the pin that goes through the little ball joint fitting at the front by the actual shifter. Basically everything is solid mounted. I have the uuc bushings also. No PVC bushings, but that parts tight. I have zero play in the shifter linkage. I've had it this way for about 4 months, and no adverse effects. It has about 1/16 slack at the shifter ****. That slack is actually in the detent. It feels pretty damn good, and shifts quick, easy and precisely.
11-24-2012, 11:52 AM
#11
Yes.
(Not my T56...you can tell by the grime!)
I may also go talk to a welding shop to see if they think they can lengthen Azn2dmax's center arm. The torsional rigidity of the GM center linkage is not great (it's probably just thin-walled tubular steel), and then GM had to put a whole bunch of bends in it that further reduced its torsional rigidity.
All in all, this is going to be an interesting couple of weeks. I'm also replacing my Hotchkis (1.125" hollow tubular steel) front sway bar with a Addco 2290 (1.375" solid steel) front sway bar. In addition to being materially stronger, the Addco piece appears to be straight as opposed to being bent. The more bends in the bar, the more the bar acts like a spring under torsion. Therefore, the Addco bar should be massively stiffer than the Hotchkis one. If I like it, I may pick up the rear bar too.
(Not my T56...you can tell by the grime!)
I may also go talk to a welding shop to see if they think they can lengthen Azn2dmax's center arm. The torsional rigidity of the GM center linkage is not great (it's probably just thin-walled tubular steel), and then GM had to put a whole bunch of bends in it that further reduced its torsional rigidity.
All in all, this is going to be an interesting couple of weeks. I'm also replacing my Hotchkis (1.125" hollow tubular steel) front sway bar with a Addco 2290 (1.375" solid steel) front sway bar. In addition to being materially stronger, the Addco piece appears to be straight as opposed to being bent. The more bends in the bar, the more the bar acts like a spring under torsion. Therefore, the Addco bar should be massively stiffer than the Hotchkis one. If I like it, I may pick up the rear bar too.
11-25-2012, 12:00 AM
#18
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I may also go talk to a welding shop to see if they think they can lengthen Azn2dmax's center arm. The torsional rigidity of the GM center linkage is not great (it's probably just thin-walled tubular steel), and then GM had to put a whole bunch of bends in it that further reduced its torsional rigidity.
11-25-2012, 12:43 AM
#19
I'm curious to see how you like the car with the addco front bar, it might bring the balance a little more towards neutral/stock (but less roll). But so far I like the Hotchkis setup seems like they added a little more rear bar than front which really controls the roll well all around but allows the rear to rotate a little easier/more predictable than stock
11-25-2012, 12:48 AM
#20
I may also go talk to a welding shop to see if they think they can lengthen Azn2dmax's center arm. The torsional rigidity of the GM center linkage is not great (it's probably just thin-walled tubular steel), and then GM had to put a whole bunch of bends in it that further reduced its torsional rigidity.