About to install LS7, Revshift diff/mounts
09-26-2013, 06:10 PM
#61
09-26-2013, 08:46 PM
#64
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before the install with arp
Def an issue with the flywheel, don't think it has anything to do with the clutch. Both my clutch and pressure plate say luk so I assume they are stock. The arp appear to be to long and bottom out with the f1 flywheel. Friend is working on it now, he could see how they bottomed out and nicked the threads of the flywheel.
Also claims the finns look down farther on the pressure plate. Haven't put it all back together yet but what Dark explains appears to be what happened with my setup. (pedal down but clutch still engaged)
We will see when it goes back together, hopefully it will be fixed
09-27-2013, 03:07 PM
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Sorad, have you measured those bolts to see what the actual length is? They look about the same from your photo, and the ARP bolt wouldn't go as deep due to the use of the washer, which would almost negate the small difference in length that I may be seeing.
09-27-2013, 06:25 PM
#66
The F1 flywheel that I had was beveled at the bottom of the hole. The OE bolt fit fine, the ARP one wouldn't due to the bevel.
09-27-2013, 07:24 PM
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That is def a pic of the pressure plate bolt not the flywheel. You guys are saying you removed the arp flywheel bolts also? All I did was take the clutch/pressure plate off and retorque it with the oem bolts (For the pressure plate) I have not measured but you can clearly see the oem bolt tappers off
Do I also need to reuse the stock flywheel bolts? Dark????
Because I took the pressure plate bolts off and you can see they clearly bottomed out.
Now I have it back together and still the same issue. Before I started my clutch job my oem clutch was going to the floor and the fluid was low and now I'm thinking my master cylinder is out. I had to start the car in gear. I have bleed the **** out of this and I can't turn the yoke by hand in gear with the clutch in. Ie (in gear clutch pushed in the car will not roll)
Where is a good place to get a clutch master cylinder? or part numbers any other ideas I can't find any fluid leaking
Do I also need to reuse the stock flywheel bolts? Dark????
Because I took the pressure plate bolts off and you can see they clearly bottomed out.
Now I have it back together and still the same issue. Before I started my clutch job my oem clutch was going to the floor and the fluid was low and now I'm thinking my master cylinder is out. I had to start the car in gear. I have bleed the **** out of this and I can't turn the yoke by hand in gear with the clutch in. Ie (in gear clutch pushed in the car will not roll)
Where is a good place to get a clutch master cylinder? or part numbers any other ideas I can't find any fluid leaking
09-27-2013, 07:49 PM
#69
That is def a pic of the pressure plate bolt not the flywheel. You guys are saying you removed the arp flywheel bolts also? All I did was take the clutch/pressure plate off and retorque it with the oem bolts (For the pressure plate) I have not measured but you can clearly see the oem bolt tappers off
Do I also need to reuse the stock flywheel bolts? Dark????
Because I took the pressure plate bolts off and you can see they clearly bottomed out.
Now I have it back together and still the same issue. Before I started my clutch job my oem clutch was going to the floor and the fluid was low and now I'm thinking my master cylinder is out. I had to start the car in gear. I have bleed the **** out of this and I can't turn the yoke by hand in gear with the clutch in. Ie (in gear clutch pushed in the car will not roll)
Where is a good place to get a clutch master cylinder? or part numbers any other ideas I can't find any fluid leaking
Do I also need to reuse the stock flywheel bolts? Dark????
Because I took the pressure plate bolts off and you can see they clearly bottomed out.
Now I have it back together and still the same issue. Before I started my clutch job my oem clutch was going to the floor and the fluid was low and now I'm thinking my master cylinder is out. I had to start the car in gear. I have bleed the **** out of this and I can't turn the yoke by hand in gear with the clutch in. Ie (in gear clutch pushed in the car will not roll)
Where is a good place to get a clutch master cylinder? or part numbers any other ideas I can't find any fluid leaking
I used ARP flywheel bolts and OEM pressure plate bolts.
Is your slave cyl good? Any leaks in the bottom of your bellhousing? If the slave travels too far, it'll pop, bleed, and be useless.
So you essentially still have direct drive, then? If you clutch and try to start with it in gear (off the ground of course) do the tires spin?
10-11-2013, 09:27 PM
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Got the car going, will update with all the information later. First wanna say thanks for all the help/tips. Dark was def right, why didn't you say something in the first place =)
Pedal def engages close to the floor but feels pretty stock. Now I haven't been shifting hard or anything just fast revs, but I am getting some clutch burning smells esp in reverse. Pretty sure it isn't fluid leaking, but could be my bunk driving not being use to low engage can't tell. From what I read it could be still some hydro issues (ie more bleeding needed) Clutch isn't slipping pulls all the way through and goes into all gears smooth
any ideas?
Pedal def engages close to the floor but feels pretty stock. Now I haven't been shifting hard or anything just fast revs, but I am getting some clutch burning smells esp in reverse. Pretty sure it isn't fluid leaking, but could be my bunk driving not being use to low engage can't tell. From what I read it could be still some hydro issues (ie more bleeding needed) Clutch isn't slipping pulls all the way through and goes into all gears smooth
any ideas?
Last edited by TeamSorad; 10-11-2013 at 09:27 PM. Reason: can't type
10-12-2013, 12:15 PM
#72
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If you have only a few miles on it, it could just be breaking in. My Exedy on my last car smelled funny for a few days then it was fine... It also didn't grab as good until after I finished bedding it in.
10-15-2013, 07:03 PM
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clutch is def getting better, bled it another time and haven't had any more problems. Don't think there is any more burning smell.
One thing is the UUC mounts def seem more solid then the refshift mounts, gonna be taking them out and putting the UUC back in. Not the revshift are bad just like the UUC better. So if any one is interested gonna be selling the revshift mounts and brand new tranns insert soon
One thing is the UUC mounts def seem more solid then the refshift mounts, gonna be taking them out and putting the UUC back in. Not the revshift are bad just like the UUC better. So if any one is interested gonna be selling the revshift mounts and brand new tranns insert soon
