OBX Headers-An Honest Review
#41
TECH Resident
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Yea short of having data to verify it... Both our of headers cars ran fine on the stock tune, nothing felt out of place, wasn't running hotter which I would kind of expect to see slight temp increase if it was leaning out when hot rodding the **** out of it for hours?? Maybe not. Wasn't running TOO rich either. We both used the wait for me performance mail order pcm... $136 I recall... I can't say of there was any noticeable difference or if it was in my head.. Also the obx units had extended bungs for the rear 02 sensors which even on stock pcm no CEL came on.. Ever. I believe they keep the O2 sensors out of direct exhaust stream?
#42
You can get that tune mail order. Google "mail order ls tune" and you'll get lots of options. I started researching each of them but went in another direction but you can get that tune by simply mailing off your pcm, they download a tune it, mail it back to you and bam. Probably cost a $150ish??
From what I can tell, this can get you pretty damn close but to get the most out of each individual car, you'll be on the dyno and thats $500 around here. If you plan on modding the car further than headers or whatever, dyno tuning can get costly unless the shop has a "retune" as you go option which, from what I can tell, is about $150 or $200 for every dyno tune you do. That isn't a bad option if you plan on doing cams, heads etc on down the road because you can't afford to do it all at once.
From what I can tell, this can get you pretty damn close but to get the most out of each individual car, you'll be on the dyno and thats $500 around here. If you plan on modding the car further than headers or whatever, dyno tuning can get costly unless the shop has a "retune" as you go option which, from what I can tell, is about $150 or $200 for every dyno tune you do. That isn't a bad option if you plan on doing cams, heads etc on down the road because you can't afford to do it all at once.
You can run a CAI and headers with out a tune and be just fine. I did it for 20k+ miles and have zero damage done to motor as evident of compression and leak down test. The computer can compensate a decent amount before you go too lean. And I tracked and dragged the car several times, so it's not like I babied it.
#43
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Most of what I've read is that without a tune, the headers didn't accomplish much and the CEL came on. Some people have had better experiences than this, some worse but in general, that's about what I'd expect if I did headers and no tune.
#44
Staging Lane
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I had a CEL because I got the high flow cats with the headers.
There's a guy local to me that will do a basic setup with HP tuners for about $150.
He deleted the rear O2s, skip shift, and made a few simple changes in the system.
He does dyno tunes also, but I felt that was unessecary for CAI and exhaust.
My V is a daily so I couldn't wait for a mail order tune.
There's a guy local to me that will do a basic setup with HP tuners for about $150.
He deleted the rear O2s, skip shift, and made a few simple changes in the system.
He does dyno tunes also, but I felt that was unessecary for CAI and exhaust.
My V is a daily so I couldn't wait for a mail order tune.
#45
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No it was on, but I paid 40$ to a tuner to shut off the rear o2's and shut off the CEL. Easy, and took 10 minutes.
I think with this particular topic you will find most will be the "naw it's fine" type. I have yet to see someone say that a CAI and headers (w/full exhaust) credit the boom to their mods.
I think with this particular topic you will find most will be the "naw it's fine" type. I have yet to see someone say that a CAI and headers (w/full exhaust) credit the boom to their mods.
#46
FormerVendor
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OBX seem to be hit or miss on quality. All those I have bought personally were all really good and fit fine. I have never seen ones like posted on here in person.
It always best to get a street or dyno tune with headers, or atleast a mail order to delete the proper codes. I have yet to see a single vehicle I have tuned make more with headers and stock tune vs tuned. Your fuel trims can compensate your part throttle fueling for them to a point but it they wont correct your WOT fueling and its not good to have huge fuel trims. Without cats (most after market high flow cats are dummy cats) the pcm can go into cat protection mode and it will command a very rich AFR at WOT. When this happens all the power you just gained from your headers is lost with the super rich AFR you now have.
It always best to get a street or dyno tune with headers, or atleast a mail order to delete the proper codes. I have yet to see a single vehicle I have tuned make more with headers and stock tune vs tuned. Your fuel trims can compensate your part throttle fueling for them to a point but it they wont correct your WOT fueling and its not good to have huge fuel trims. Without cats (most after market high flow cats are dummy cats) the pcm can go into cat protection mode and it will command a very rich AFR at WOT. When this happens all the power you just gained from your headers is lost with the super rich AFR you now have.
#47
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I don't think there's any denying that a dyno tune for a header install will give you increased power levels over a stock tune but if your headers/exhaust/cai are your first steps on the way to cam and heads, do you really need to spend those tuning dollars or will the car survive without it...
I think we can all agree that the car will survive without it but it'll run better with it.
I think we can all agree that the car will survive without it but it'll run better with it.
#48
Thanks for all the opinions on the tuning... didn't mean to hijack the thread, but I guess I kind of did. Might as well keep it up now...
VooDoo - Thanks for the info.
LSXPower - Was that a type-o, or did you mean to say that you've never seen a vehicle make more with headers and a tune versus headers with OEM tune?
Phalanx - This HP tuners thing... you still have to buy the handheld device to do the tuning with, don't you? Did you consider any of the PCM exchange type options where they send you a tuned PCM, then you return your original to them? Seems like a reasonable option if the vendor does good tuning work, and if it's "that easy" to just swap PCMs.
I would definitely have to keep cats if I went with headers... how much of the ~20 whp gains are from the elimination of the cats? Am I only looking at 10-15 whp with LT's and cats? Are folks still getting the CELs even when they're keeping cats in the mix, or is the CEL related more to the cats than the LTs?
VooDoo - Thanks for the info.
LSXPower - Was that a type-o, or did you mean to say that you've never seen a vehicle make more with headers and a tune versus headers with OEM tune?
Phalanx - This HP tuners thing... you still have to buy the handheld device to do the tuning with, don't you? Did you consider any of the PCM exchange type options where they send you a tuned PCM, then you return your original to them? Seems like a reasonable option if the vendor does good tuning work, and if it's "that easy" to just swap PCMs.
I would definitely have to keep cats if I went with headers... how much of the ~20 whp gains are from the elimination of the cats? Am I only looking at 10-15 whp with LT's and cats? Are folks still getting the CELs even when they're keeping cats in the mix, or is the CEL related more to the cats than the LTs?
#50
Staging Lane
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Wes: HP tuners is a software program. You install it on a laptop and plug into the OBD2. Most tuners I know use this software. You can buy it for home use but it has a really steep learning curve. Typically you get about 3 cars worth of licenses with initial purchase, and you have to buy licenses from them to tune more cars. Tuners usually pay for "unlimited" licenses so they can tune any car that comes to their shop.
As far as the CEL it has more to do with the cats. The rear O2s sense that the cats aren't working efficiently, because really they aren't, when you get high flow cats. If you get LT's though, I think you'd be hard pressed to get the stock cats to fit. I didn't try, but they're F'ng huge.
As far as the CEL it has more to do with the cats. The rear O2s sense that the cats aren't working efficiently, because really they aren't, when you get high flow cats. If you get LT's though, I think you'd be hard pressed to get the stock cats to fit. I didn't try, but they're F'ng huge.
#51
I personally suggest the Magnaflow "bullet" or "spun" (one in the same) cats from personal experience. They're easy on space restrictions, and are built to work properly. You can get them with a ceramic substrate or stainless... I've gone with stainless in the past as they're supposed to last longer. Of course, that car got sold well before I could tell how long the cats lasted. These "spun" cats are exactly like what you'd see on those Mandrel Exhaust replacement 'cat pipes' for our V1's that are now out of production. I personally owned a set of these, but wound up un-installing because they made my exhaust WAAAY too loud and I didn't have the extra $$ to be buying a muffler setup. Those particular cats were pretty small/short, so I wondered if they'd do the job well enough, but I only ran them for a couple days before I had them uninstalled/sold. If you've never used them, there's a site called Performancepeddler.com that's always a helluva deal for magnaflow stuff. You can "make your best offer" (just offer $1) on most things and then they come back to you with a significantly discounted price. Can't beat 'em.
Wes: HP tuners is a software program. You install it on a laptop and plug into the OBD2. Most tuners I know use this software. You can buy it for home use but it has a really steep learning curve. Typically you get about 3 cars worth of licenses with initial purchase, and you have to buy licenses from them to tune more cars. Tuners usually pay for "unlimited" licenses so they can tune any car that comes to their shop.
As far as the CEL it has more to do with the cats. The rear O2s sense that the cats aren't working efficiently, because really they aren't, when you get high flow cats. If you get LT's though, I think you'd be hard pressed to get the stock cats to fit. I didn't try, but they're F'ng huge.
As far as the CEL it has more to do with the cats. The rear O2s sense that the cats aren't working efficiently, because really they aren't, when you get high flow cats. If you get LT's though, I think you'd be hard pressed to get the stock cats to fit. I didn't try, but they're F'ng huge.
#52
FormerVendor
iTrader: (4)
OBX seem to be hit or miss on quality. All those I have bought personally were all really good and fit fine. I have never seen ones like posted on here in person.
It always best to get a street or dyno tune with headers, or atleast a mail order to delete the proper codes. I have yet to see a single vehicle I have tuned make more with headers and stock tune vs tuned. Your fuel trims can compensate your part throttle fueling for them to a point but it they wont correct your WOT fueling and its not good to have huge fuel trims. Without cats (most after market high flow cats are dummy cats) the pcm can go into cat protection mode and it will command a very rich AFR at WOT. When this happens all the power you just gained from your headers is lost with the super rich AFR you now have.
It always best to get a street or dyno tune with headers, or atleast a mail order to delete the proper codes. I have yet to see a single vehicle I have tuned make more with headers and stock tune vs tuned. Your fuel trims can compensate your part throttle fueling for them to a point but it they wont correct your WOT fueling and its not good to have huge fuel trims. Without cats (most after market high flow cats are dummy cats) the pcm can go into cat protection mode and it will command a very rich AFR at WOT. When this happens all the power you just gained from your headers is lost with the super rich AFR you now have.
Thanks for all the opinions on the tuning... didn't mean to hijack the thread, but I guess I kind of did. Might as well keep it up now...
VooDoo - Thanks for the info.
LSXPower - Was that a type-o, or did you mean to say that you've never seen a vehicle make more with headers and a tune versus headers with OEM tune?
Phalanx - This HP tuners thing... you still have to buy the handheld device to do the tuning with, don't you? Did you consider any of the PCM exchange type options where they send you a tuned PCM, then you return your original to them? Seems like a reasonable option if the vendor does good tuning work, and if it's "that easy" to just swap PCMs.
I would definitely have to keep cats if I went with headers... how much of the ~20 whp gains are from the elimination of the cats? Am I only looking at 10-15 whp with LT's and cats? Are folks still getting the CELs even when they're keeping cats in the mix, or is the CEL related more to the cats than the LTs?
VooDoo - Thanks for the info.
LSXPower - Was that a type-o, or did you mean to say that you've never seen a vehicle make more with headers and a tune versus headers with OEM tune?
Phalanx - This HP tuners thing... you still have to buy the handheld device to do the tuning with, don't you? Did you consider any of the PCM exchange type options where they send you a tuned PCM, then you return your original to them? Seems like a reasonable option if the vendor does good tuning work, and if it's "that easy" to just swap PCMs.
I would definitely have to keep cats if I went with headers... how much of the ~20 whp gains are from the elimination of the cats? Am I only looking at 10-15 whp with LT's and cats? Are folks still getting the CELs even when they're keeping cats in the mix, or is the CEL related more to the cats than the LTs?
#53
Ok, there's a good chance that I'm just half retarded, but I'm still not sure what you're saying. LOL You're saying that you tune cars and don't see any power gains over the stock tune? So don't bother tuning for headers? This doesn't make sense to me... especially coming from a guy who does tuning. But again, maybe I'm just retar........drunk......
#54
FormerVendor
iTrader: (4)
I think I'm starting to hear the 'Twilight Zone' tune...
Ok, there's a good chance that I'm just half retarded, but I'm still not sure what you're saying. LOL You're saying that you tune cars and don't see any power gains over the stock tune? So don't bother tuning for headers? This doesn't make sense to me... especially coming from a guy who does tuning. But again, maybe I'm just retar........drunk......
Ok, there's a good chance that I'm just half retarded, but I'm still not sure what you're saying. LOL You're saying that you tune cars and don't see any power gains over the stock tune? So don't bother tuning for headers? This doesn't make sense to me... especially coming from a guy who does tuning. But again, maybe I'm just retar........drunk......
Stock Tune less power < Custom Tune more power
#55
Oh, I read and re-read it before I asked for the clarification. It could be read more ways than one, that's all. "Headers with a tune will always outperform headers without a tune" would have been a little more succinct, but I'm not trying to be the english police here. At least you knew what you were trying to say. lol I figured what you meant, but there was a chance you meant it the other way around too. Anyway... that was a fun trip...now, back to earth...
So since you're a tuning guy... do you do the "PCM echange" kind of deal? Or would I have to send mine to you for tuning, and wait for it to come back? I obviously haven't perused your links yet, but I'm about to... Probably answer my own question(s) there... Thanks!!
EDIT: Now that I see you do a PCM/ECM exchange type thing, I have a question... Can you typically see decent results (worth the cost of the tune) on factory setups that haven't been modified? Or is it only worth looking into tuning once you're looking at mods like headers, intake, cam, etc? If you can get worthwhile results on a stock vehicle, what are the benefits (aside from a little more pep, I'm assuming)? What would be the price for an LS2 ECM if I had you send me one pre-calibrated and I sent you my original "core" after swapping them? Or is this possible?
So since you're a tuning guy... do you do the "PCM echange" kind of deal? Or would I have to send mine to you for tuning, and wait for it to come back? I obviously haven't perused your links yet, but I'm about to... Probably answer my own question(s) there... Thanks!!
EDIT: Now that I see you do a PCM/ECM exchange type thing, I have a question... Can you typically see decent results (worth the cost of the tune) on factory setups that haven't been modified? Or is it only worth looking into tuning once you're looking at mods like headers, intake, cam, etc? If you can get worthwhile results on a stock vehicle, what are the benefits (aside from a little more pep, I'm assuming)? What would be the price for an LS2 ECM if I had you send me one pre-calibrated and I sent you my original "core" after swapping them? Or is this possible?
Last edited by wes8398; 10-10-2015 at 02:46 PM.
#56
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
A remote tune is like tuning with a best guess based on past experiences with the same or similar setup.
A dynotune at a shop usually ranges from $400-$500 with a lesser cost for retunes.
Also, mine has the high flow cats that OBX supplied (not just the dummies). The exhaust smell is only slightly more potent than a stock setup. It's definitely not a raw gasoline smell. I haven't had it sniff tested since the install as it's not required and I'm not sure it would pass on a numbers basis, but it definitely functions well enough as a catalytic converter for me.
A dynotune at a shop usually ranges from $400-$500 with a lesser cost for retunes.
Also, mine has the high flow cats that OBX supplied (not just the dummies). The exhaust smell is only slightly more potent than a stock setup. It's definitely not a raw gasoline smell. I haven't had it sniff tested since the install as it's not required and I'm not sure it would pass on a numbers basis, but it definitely functions well enough as a catalytic converter for me.
#57
And $400-$500 for your first dyno tune? You've still gotta buy a programmer (handheld) on top of that, don't you? Those are a couple hundred bucks or so alone, aren't they? And if a dyno tune is $400 in whatever State you're in, I can just about guarantee that they'll be twice that in my neck of the woods. There aren't nearly as many speed shops around here as there are around there. My best bet (IIRC from back in my Mustang days) would be a guy named Lideo at a shop in the Detroit area called Alternative Auto, who's apparently got a pretty good reputation. But at a 30% exchange rate these days, it's just too much money. If I were to drop $700 on headers, it'd be another couple hundred easy on the fab work to fit 'em up properly, etc. I can't do another grand on tuning on top of that... Not without making a concerted effort to start saving the money specifically for the job. I can swing the cost of the parts on a whim, but not 2 G's.
#58
So, expect sub par headers, buy sub par headers, spend a little to make them fit and touch up some welds and still come out cheaper than buying Kooks/ARH. Not too bad.
Most people spend the money on Kooks/ARH for the no hassle fitment. 75% of people buy Kooks/ARH do so because they are stainless and just plop them on and go. Another 20% of the people will not see that benefit and buy OBX for stainless and that they are cheaper and plop them on and go. The remining 5% will do what the OP did and buy OBX, but inspect the crap out of them and find the short coming and do something about it to "fix it".
Unless you have a custom header made for your motor, all production made headers would perform relatively the same. The design of a production header is so vague that it "works" (aka make more power than stock) for anyone that bolts it on. All what people say it worth it to them in $/hp. If a Kooks header makes 5 more hp over OBX, I'm going OBX and dealing with the fitment issues. And that's not about me being "cheap", it's me having an opinion that the added cost of Kooks is not worth it to me.
Most people spend the money on Kooks/ARH for the no hassle fitment. 75% of people buy Kooks/ARH do so because they are stainless and just plop them on and go. Another 20% of the people will not see that benefit and buy OBX for stainless and that they are cheaper and plop them on and go. The remining 5% will do what the OP did and buy OBX, but inspect the crap out of them and find the short coming and do something about it to "fix it".
Unless you have a custom header made for your motor, all production made headers would perform relatively the same. The design of a production header is so vague that it "works" (aka make more power than stock) for anyone that bolts it on. All what people say it worth it to them in $/hp. If a Kooks header makes 5 more hp over OBX, I'm going OBX and dealing with the fitment issues. And that's not about me being "cheap", it's me having an opinion that the added cost of Kooks is not worth it to me.
#59
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I would hazard a guess that a daily driver that's just got a few bolt-ons would probably be just fine with a "best guess" tune - especially if you have it done by someone with lots of experience to draw from. No?
And $400-$500 for your first dyno tune? You've still gotta buy a programmer (handheld) on top of that, don't you? Those are a couple hundred bucks or so alone, aren't they? And if a dyno tune is $400 in whatever State you're in, I can just about guarantee that they'll be twice that in my neck of the woods. There aren't nearly as many speed shops around here as there are around there. My best bet (IIRC from back in my Mustang days) would be a guy named Lideo at a shop in the Detroit area called Alternative Auto, who's apparently got a pretty good reputation. But at a 30% exchange rate these days, it's just too much money. If I were to drop $700 on headers, it'd be another couple hundred easy on the fab work to fit 'em up properly, etc. I can't do another grand on tuning on top of that... Not without making a concerted effort to start saving the money specifically for the job. I can swing the cost of the parts on a whim, but not 2 G's.
And $400-$500 for your first dyno tune? You've still gotta buy a programmer (handheld) on top of that, don't you? Those are a couple hundred bucks or so alone, aren't they? And if a dyno tune is $400 in whatever State you're in, I can just about guarantee that they'll be twice that in my neck of the woods. There aren't nearly as many speed shops around here as there are around there. My best bet (IIRC from back in my Mustang days) would be a guy named Lideo at a shop in the Detroit area called Alternative Auto, who's apparently got a pretty good reputation. But at a 30% exchange rate these days, it's just too much money. If I were to drop $700 on headers, it'd be another couple hundred easy on the fab work to fit 'em up properly, etc. I can't do another grand on tuning on top of that... Not without making a concerted effort to start saving the money specifically for the job. I can swing the cost of the parts on a whim, but not 2 G's.
Last edited by isis; 10-12-2015 at 03:41 PM.