CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

For an update...

I replaced the fuel pump assembly (pump, level sensor & sending unit) and soldered in a new connection for this piece of the electrical harness. I took out the 30A fuel pump fuse that Magnuson tells you to use and replaced it with the stock 20A fuse. I read through the instructions for all the other Magnuson kits and the CTS-V instructions are the only ones that tell you to upgrade the fuse. This fuse upgrade is suspect to me to so I am starting out this time with the stock 20A to see how it holds up. After 2 days of driving (and getting on it pretty hard) the fuse hasn't blown. I will feel much safer using the 20A fuse for a circuit that was designed for it.

We tested the voltage with the car running to make sure the Magnavolt wasn't malfunctioning and boosting 17 volts all the time, and everything appears to be working correctly. The pump is getting the correct amount of power under normal conditions, and the ground for the circuit tested out perfect so that is not an issue.

I will be monitoring this connection for some time to make sure there are no signs of a repeat issue. I will provide some updates on how the 20A fuse is holding up. If it works fine, then I would have to recommend that anyone with a maggie and magnavolt go back to the stock 20A fuse for protection against something like this.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

I've also read that you pick up on average, around 2 more volts at the pump by doing this.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the pics on the access hole. I may be upgrading soon and getting rid of the magnavolt all together.

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

No problem. Here is a video of the original leak...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCTlpq30Ri4

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=CTSV_510;13434472]What is a fuel pump hot wire kit?




http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...%2D027&eq=&Tp=


I would strongly recommend this.

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

I like the idea but how would upgrading the rest of the harness have an impact if the original point of weakness isn't changed/upgraded?

wkdivr

iTrader: (8)

Because the factory power wire for the pump is that puny gauge factory wire. The hot wire kit uses the factory wire as the trigger to open the relay, and uses a dedicated, heavy gauge wire directly off the alternator. It's especially a good idea if you're supplying extra voltage to the pump when in boost. You might have to talk with Racetronix, or Lonnies to discuss using your Magnavolt. I'm sure it can be done.

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

I get it, but in my case the puny factory wire wasn't the problem, it was the connection at the fuel pump. If I used this hot wire kit I would also have to replace the sending unit with something that matches the heavy gauge of the hot wire kit to make a really reliable heavy duty circuit.

Otherwise, it would be comparable to upgrading my trans and driveshaft because I keep blowing diffs.

DoctorNick

wow dude, major bummer.

I hope you carry an extinguisher with ya!!!

Slithering_Joe

Tom, since you had a bad connection at the pump connector, the resistance & the elevated voltage would easily cook the connector. It's a joke that an installation manual would have one to install a 30A fuse in place of the original 20A. This breaks the #1 rule of harness wiring. The factory also uses the very least wire they can get away with. This is is part of the of the reason why people sell the voltage boosters in the first place. That video scares me with the fuel gushing out. I wouldn't have gotten near the car if that was happening. Glad you got everything up and running again with no one was hurt.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Crazy. Well im glad you got it going!... and that your not a chick and just kept driving on it till it caught fire. Having it towed to the dealer when its pile of ash complaining about how it wont start now. lol

TexVette

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the pics on how to cut the hole to access the pump. I'm one of the lucky ones to have the Racetronix CTS-V kit but have been putting off install due to the time needed to drop the tank. Now I think I'll go ahead with the install. I've had 1 magnavolt unit randomly malfunctioning on the old car and can't seem to locate the magnavolt on the new one....

TheLAW

iTrader: (4)

Now.....how are you going to fix your floor?

LAW

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

No problem. What do you mean you can't locate the magnavolt? The older kits had it installed in the trunk, but there is also the possibility that there is no magnavolt.

Temporarily I just have a few layers of aluminum tape...but I will be cutting and molding a piece of sheet metal to cover it up.

TexVette

iTrader: (2)

After some searching/researching, my new V didn't have it installed. My totaled V has a magnavolt, but it's fried. I'm happy that I kept the racetronix setup. I plan to install the hot wire to it as well since it's worked great for a LONG time on my C5.

SIGFOD

I just had exactly the same thing happen to me on my bone stock CTS-V. $1200 later car is back to good. If the shop still has the pump I will post pictures.

z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

This happened to me as well, this is rediculous that this would ever happen. Major safety concern.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

interesting... three of these happening now... I thought it might have been the overload of the magnavolt, but you guys were both stock (fuel pump/voltage/assembly wise)?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

scary.......

DMM

This is not an isolated incident...have seen this once on just about every vehicle that Chevrolet produces and have yet to know of one that caught fire. The Magnavolt has nothing to do with it, one of the female terminals loses tension and the increased resistance generates heat.

Throw a new module and pre-terminated connector in and be done with it. I do not know if the HOT-WIRE kit comes with a connector/terminal that plugs into the fuel pump module itself, if not the kit would not prevent this from occurring again.