No battery charging and no rpm working(cluster) after mp112 install
09-12-2011, 10:53 AM
#1
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No battery charging and no rpm working(cluster) after mp112 install Hi,
i firend of mine installed a new ls6 engine in his 05 ctsv with a magnacharger mp112.Everything is working well mechanicly.The car start without any problem but the battery doesnt seems to charge(going from 12.65 to 11.35 while running idle).He also lost his rpm reading in his cluster,the gauge doesnt work anymore.
Before he took everything out ,everything was working properly.So where do we start to check ???
Thanks
i firend of mine installed a new ls6 engine in his 05 ctsv with a magnacharger mp112.Everything is working well mechanicly.The car start without any problem but the battery doesnt seems to charge(going from 12.65 to 11.35 while running idle).He also lost his rpm reading in his cluster,the gauge doesnt work anymore.
Before he took everything out ,everything was working properly.So where do we start to check ???
Thanks
09-12-2011, 12:42 PM
#2
There should be a two wire weather pack connection on the back of the alternator. One goes from the PCM to the alternator, the other from the alternator to the gauge cluster. When the key is on, you should show a voltage from that brown (I think) wire (that's the PCM to alternator). If you show no voltage on that wire, then find the other end of that wire on the PCM (find a pin out diagram online), and use an OHM meter to verify the line isn't shorted.
This is not a recommendation, but just fyi... I've had 2 CTS-V's, and both had this wire malfunction. I had to splice in and cut 3" from the alternator, and 3" from the PCM, and run a new wire between the PCM and alternator... it was just easier than taking all the loom off and trying to find where it was shorted.
Happy hunting! I hate wiring... I feel helpless whenever I have a wiring problem.
This is not a recommendation, but just fyi... I've had 2 CTS-V's, and both had this wire malfunction. I had to splice in and cut 3" from the alternator, and 3" from the PCM, and run a new wire between the PCM and alternator... it was just easier than taking all the loom off and trying to find where it was shorted.
Happy hunting! I hate wiring... I feel helpless whenever I have a wiring problem.
09-14-2011, 11:20 AM
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Well thank you,we now have a charging alternator.It was the pins in the conenctor that where way to loose.
Now the only problem remaining is that we still dont got any rpm reading in the cluster gauge ???
Now the only problem remaining is that we still dont got any rpm reading in the cluster gauge ???
09-14-2011, 12:21 PM
#5
Check your splice job on the ESS wire. I had the same issue and it turned out i did a poor job at crimping it and wasn't getting a good connection.
09-15-2011, 08:54 AM
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Thanks
By the way now we got a po654 code (engine speed output circuit)
09-15-2011, 10:02 AM
#7
ESS= Engine Speed Sensor, it is a white wire that you spliced. It comes off a connector on the drivers side of the engine bay.
Last edited by Onefast V; 09-15-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Thanks everyone,we now got a fully working caddy 
09-16-2011, 02:43 PM
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Well its not that easy,the car just shut down on the dyno 
So other small problem:
At the first WOT run ,just when it hit the 4000rpm mark,the car just shut down.And now the car doesnt want to start anymore
It cranks fine,but it doesnt seems to have fuel injected in since the wideband show lean.How do we check if the fuel pump is working ???
So other small problem:
At the first WOT run ,just when it hit the 4000rpm mark,the car just shut down.And now the car doesnt want to start anymore
It cranks fine,but it doesnt seems to have fuel injected in since the wideband show lean.How do we check if the fuel pump is working ???
10-03-2011, 05:24 PM
#11
There should be a two wire weather pack connection on the back of the alternator. One goes from the PCM to the alternator, the other from the alternator to the gauge cluster. When the key is on, you should show a voltage from that brown (I think) wire (that's the PCM to alternator). If you show no voltage on that wire, then find the other end of that wire on the PCM (find a pin out diagram online), and use an OHM meter to verify the line isn't shorted.
10-03-2011, 06:15 PM
#12
10-03-2011, 07:32 PM
#13
No issues after maggie. actually having the "Battery not charging" issue. I've read in a few threads that it could be the wire from the alternator to the pcm but I'm getting voltage on that wire, L-terminal (orange wire)
10-04-2011, 02:51 AM
#15
I already pulled the alternator and had advanced test it. It tested good. I get the message right when I start the car or even before I start it and when it's in the "on" position. I have good voltage shown on the dic when I start the car though it will slowly drop. If I drive it it will jump up and down though, between 11 and 13v.
Maybe the voltage regulator? What sucks is it it part of the alternator. If I want to change it i have to buy a new alternator. Just want to rule other things out before spending money on a new alternator.
Btw the battery is pretty new also ( optima red top)
Any other ideas? Ill try to check the battery while the car is running with a meter just for the hell of it. Just have to put a couple things back together
Maybe the voltage regulator? What sucks is it it part of the alternator. If I want to change it i have to buy a new alternator. Just want to rule other things out before spending money on a new alternator.
Btw the battery is pretty new also ( optima red top)
Any other ideas? Ill try to check the battery while the car is running with a meter just for the hell of it. Just have to put a couple things back together
