Rev Shift Motor Mount Install Tutorial Writeup
11-22-2012, 01:10 PM
#22
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has anybody used the silicone thermal jackets from RevShift that go around the motor mounts? (basically heat shields). Is it worth getting them or just using header wrap?
08-23-2013, 09:19 AM
#26
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I replaced mine with UMI. They feel very responsive. I get a little vibration on take off and when going down the freeway I notice very little rear view mirror shake. Other than that they feel like stock to me. The old ones fell apart when I took them out.
02-17-2015, 09:03 PM
#32
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I waited 4 weeks to get them after I ordered them. Each time I would call I got the run around about how they were going out that day and they were understaffed. But I finally got them.
04-06-2016, 07:56 AM
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So your stock motor mounts look like this?
If they don't yet, they will
Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevTechs is 3/4"):
Tools you'll need:
15mm socket
18mm socket
3/4" socket
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight
External Torx E-10 (or a 8mm socket)
Extensions
Now you have a decision to make.....
Some people take the stock manifolds/or headers off to do this which makes life a lot easier but takes more time
(lots of extensions and an impact, when removing the motor mount brackets from the block)
Or leave the manifold/headers on and get up close and personal with a wrench.
Remove the wheel and dive on in.
This is showing Passenger Side (3 bolts):
Old Motor Mount bolts on block: 15mm
This is showing Driver's Side (4 bolts):
Make sure the bolts with studded head go on bottom so the wire loom can be reattached
Here are the new Revshift Mounts inside both brackets. It's upside down in the pic (sorry I was in a hurry and was trying to take pics on the side)
RevTech also told me the factory heat shields are not necessary and were not installed
The Nut on the hex stud is 18mm
This is the same stud removed (you can use a 8mm socket on it if you don't have an E-10 inverted torx socket):
Here's how I lifted the engine block (and how I've done it every MM change)
My buddy Lance's head is now famous
Gratuitous Dipstick shot (some people say they've done it without removing, but I've taken mine out every time since it's like playing Jenga getting the MM bracket out...that bolt is 15mm)
Wrapped headers FTW
This is trying to maneuver the passenger side motor mount block from the engine bay (That nut on top is 18mm):
RevShift mount installed,,,very nice!:
Initial thoughts after I've put 400+ miles on these so far.......
The idle vibration is raised slightly compared to the UUC's. Now I realize this is all subjective....so a little insight:
The UUC's only vibrated slightly more than the stockers, so being the Rev Tech's being a harder urethane than the UUC's you feel the idle just a tad more like as if you had a tiny cam maybe?
The engine feels like it's more planted though like the power is getting transplanted to the ground a lot better. Placebo effect? I don't know.....but I like it.
I got the 80A blue ones (softer street ones) which are only $149.99....can't beat that price!
RevShift makes red ones (track ones) and even harder. So pick your poison.
All in all I'm happy with them because I like my power getting to the pavement. My UUC's weren't bad (I thought they were) but these are much firmer which hopefully translates to HP being used intsead of lost. (Like my butt dyno suggests) I'm digging em!
Here's a link to buy em:
https://www.revshift.com/shop/bushin...s/cadillac.php
If you have any questions, PM me.
If they don't yet, they will
Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevTechs is 3/4"):
Tools you'll need:
15mm socket
18mm socket
3/4" socket
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight
External Torx E-10 (or a 8mm socket)
Extensions
Now you have a decision to make.....
Some people take the stock manifolds/or headers off to do this which makes life a lot easier but takes more time
(lots of extensions and an impact, when removing the motor mount brackets from the block)
Or leave the manifold/headers on and get up close and personal with a wrench.
Remove the wheel and dive on in.
This is showing Passenger Side (3 bolts):
Old Motor Mount bolts on block: 15mm
This is showing Driver's Side (4 bolts):
Make sure the bolts with studded head go on bottom so the wire loom can be reattached
Here are the new Revshift Mounts inside both brackets. It's upside down in the pic (sorry I was in a hurry and was trying to take pics on the side)
RevTech also told me the factory heat shields are not necessary and were not installed
The Nut on the hex stud is 18mm
This is the same stud removed (you can use a 8mm socket on it if you don't have an E-10 inverted torx socket):
Here's how I lifted the engine block (and how I've done it every MM change)
My buddy Lance's head is now famous
Gratuitous Dipstick shot (some people say they've done it without removing, but I've taken mine out every time since it's like playing Jenga getting the MM bracket out...that bolt is 15mm)
Wrapped headers FTW
This is trying to maneuver the passenger side motor mount block from the engine bay (That nut on top is 18mm):
RevShift mount installed,,,very nice!:
Initial thoughts after I've put 400+ miles on these so far.......
The idle vibration is raised slightly compared to the UUC's. Now I realize this is all subjective....so a little insight:
The UUC's only vibrated slightly more than the stockers, so being the Rev Tech's being a harder urethane than the UUC's you feel the idle just a tad more like as if you had a tiny cam maybe?
The engine feels like it's more planted though like the power is getting transplanted to the ground a lot better. Placebo effect? I don't know.....but I like it.
I got the 80A blue ones (softer street ones) which are only $149.99....can't beat that price!
RevShift makes red ones (track ones) and even harder. So pick your poison.
All in all I'm happy with them because I like my power getting to the pavement. My UUC's weren't bad (I thought they were) but these are much firmer which hopefully translates to HP being used intsead of lost. (Like my butt dyno suggests) I'm digging em!
Here's a link to buy em:
https://www.revshift.com/shop/bushin...s/cadillac.php
If you have any questions, PM me.
04-06-2016, 11:01 AM
#36
You need to remove them both. The passenger side is a "no freaking duh"--you can't even get all the motor mount mounting plates' bolts off with the Kooks/OBX header in the way. On the driver side, it might be theoretically possible to remove the mount without touching the header, but it felt faster to me to unbolt it.
If you haven't done it, I recommend using this opportunity to replace your header bolts with new bolts and anti-seize. I use ARP header bolts and high-grade stainless screws / nuts on the header-to-exhaust coupler. Would love to replace that whole mess with V-band clamps, but I need opinions on how well they hold up at exhaust temperatures.
If you haven't done it, I recommend using this opportunity to replace your header bolts with new bolts and anti-seize. I use ARP header bolts and high-grade stainless screws / nuts on the header-to-exhaust coupler. Would love to replace that whole mess with V-band clamps, but I need opinions on how well they hold up at exhaust temperatures.
